Trick flow rocker shaft studs

-
Ted265

Ted265

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2021
Messages
228
Reaction score
286
Location
Australia
Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone has a set of the small block TFS-61400613 rocker shaft studs hanging around that they could measure the overall length of for me? Or does anyone know the length of these studs?
I contacted trick flow tech department last week to ask them for the overall length as they don't list it on their website, but yet to get a response back from them.
My PRW rockers came with studs but they are too short to accommodate my geometry correction kit.
Would rather run studs instead of bolts on the alloy heads if I can find some the right length.
Cheers,
Ted
 
Ted265 said:
Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone has a set of the small block TFS-61400613 rocker shaft studs hanging around that they could measure the overall length of for me? Or does anyone know the length of these studs?
I contacted trick flow tech department last week to ask them for the overall length as they don't list it on their website, but yet to get a response back from them.
My PRW rockers came with studs but they are too short to accommodate my geometry correction kit.
Would rather run studs instead of bolts on the alloy heads if I can find some the right length.
Cheers,
Ted
Click to expand...
Did you buy your geometry kit from Mike at B3racing? It Includes the proper longer bolts. Measure those and buy accordingly.
 
Yep, B3 kit. It needed a fair correction so he needed to supply & machine the hold downs as well. These are a fair bit thicker than the PRW hold downs.
The bolts supplied in the kit are actually shorter than the studs that came with the rockers.
The rocker shaft bolt holes in the head are pretty deep - that might have something to do with it.
The PRW studs are 2.625" long, looks like I need something around 2.9" long.

20220214_160742.jpg
 
Ted265 said:
Yep, B3 kit. It needed a fair correction so he needed to supply & machine the hold downs as well. These are a fair bit thicker than the PRW hold downs.
The bolts supplied in the kit are actually shorter than the studs that came with the rockers.
The rocker shaft bolt holes in the head are pretty deep - that might have something to do with it.
The PRW studs are 2.625" long, looks like I need something around 2.9" long.

View attachment 1715869635
Click to expand...


Why not use the bolts like MO suggested? There isn’t a reason to use studs there. I’d bolt that stuff down and get on with it.
 
Ted265 said:
Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone has a set of the small block TFS-61400613 rocker shaft studs hanging around that they could measure the overall length of for me? Or does anyone know the length of these studs?
I contacted trick flow tech department last week to ask them for the overall length as they don't list it on their website, but yet to get a response back from them.
My PRW rockers came with studs but they are too short to accommodate my geometry correction kit.
Would rather run studs instead of bolts on the alloy heads if I can find some the right length.
Cheers,
Ted
Click to expand...
I’ve got the TFs w/Erson rollers and Mike’s correction kit, and using the Allen bolts as supplied with the Angelucci billet (MP replicas) hold downs. had no concerns using bolts vs. studs.
Rotate the engine so as many lifters are on the lobe heels or at the lowest lift as possible, back the rocker adjusters out and alternately/incrementaly tighten down the hold down bolts.
 
Last edited:
McMaster-Carr

I used these with my correction kit and PRW rockers. Studs are so much easier than a bolt with high pressure springs. They were long on the shaft side, but I wanted to be able to bottom the stud (and then back off 1/4 turn) and that's what McMaster had that was close.

IMG_20200828_174415.jpg
 
Rat Bastid said:
Why not use the bolts like MO suggested? There isn’t a reason to use studs there. I’d bolt that stuff down and get on with it.
Click to expand...

Peace of mind really, the bolt holes in the rocker shaft pedestals are not helicoiled just tapped into the aluminium. I don't want to trash the threads so I would rather have studs there so I can get full thread engagement in the head don't have to take them back out once they're in.
But I might just be over thinking it.
Just to clarify I'm not using Trick flow heads - China castings.

TurboGLH said:
McMaster-Carr

I used these with my correction kit and PRW rockers. Studs are so much easier than a bolt with high pressure springs. They were long on the shaft side, but I wanted to be able to bottom the stud (and then back off 1/4 turn) and that's what McMaster had that was close.

View attachment 1715869750
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, I'll contact these guys and see if they offer international shipping.
 
Ted265 said:
Peace of mind really, the bolt holes in the rocker shaft pedestals are not helicoiled just tapped into the aluminium. I don't want to trash the threads so I would rather have studs there so I can get full thread engagement in the head don't have to take them back out once they're in.
But I might just be over thinking it.
Just to clarify I'm not using Trick flow heads - China castings.


Thanks mate, I'll contact these guys and see if they offer international shipping.
Click to expand...
20220214_171650.jpg
 
Very wise to use studs with alum heads. A few reasons. Most important is alum is a soft metal & by using studs, you can utilise all of the thread depth in the head for maximum strength.
If you need to add/subtract shims, you are not disturbing threads that might lead to stripped threads. I used s/s studs on a 440 with TF heads. Bought a length of s/s & cut the studs to the reqd length.
 
Here’s my question…If a guy has a freshly built running engine all together, with Trick Flow heads, and his Harland Sharp rockers are fastened down with bolts, can he simply change the bolts out one at a time with studs, or should he loosen everything, take the load off the rockers by loosening the adjusting nuts and then shaft mount bolts and replace with studs?
 
mopardude318 said:
Here’s my question…If a guy has a freshly built running engine all together, with Trick Flow heads, and his Harland Sharp rockers are fastened down with bolts, can he simply change the bolts out one at a time with studs, or should he loosen everything, take the load off the rockers by loosening the adjusting nuts and then shaft mount bolts and replace with studs?
Click to expand...


Yes. I’ve never run studs. Never saw a need for them there.
 
Mopardude 318.

I would change to studs one at a time. Buuuuuuuuuuuuut, if you do not need to remove the rocker gear, I would leave it alone. If for some reason you need to remove r/bolts, THEN I would switch to studs.
 
mopardude318 said:
Here’s my question…If a guy has a freshly built running engine all together, with Trick Flow heads, and his Harland Sharp rockers are fastened down with bolts, can he simply change the bolts out one at a time with studs, or should he loosen everything, take the load off the rockers by loosening the adjusting nuts and then shaft mount bolts and replace with studs?
Click to expand...
For one at a time: Like I mentioned earlier, rotate the engine so as many lifters are on the lobe heels or lowest lift as possible. That’s a whole lot better than having multiple valves at Max or various stages of lift. Or just rotate so sets of valves on either side of each stand are closed etc. No worries.
 
Last edited:
I just had my questions answered, they are not Trick Flow heads. I had very little correction with my Trick Flow heads, Mike just sent half of his kit and it was spot on. Trick Flow heads have taller pedestals.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top