Bad move. Modify the head accordingly and use those heads.
TrickFlow 190 Issue
- Thread starter 19DUSTER73
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all being equal how much more hp do you think the trickflow will make over the ede heads?
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Taking .012" off the OD of a 1/2" bolt would reduce strength by 5%.
To gain back any lost load would mean to match the strain, which would require a 5% increase in torque, so long as there's at least 10% margin left in the design of the stud, it should be fine.
I'd rather have an iffy head stud vs a head that tf will no longer warranty and which may develop a hole. If an issue ever develops with the stud, it's not hard to remedy or take a different approach.
The grain structure of a through hardened fastener isn't going to be affected by such a small reduction in OD. It's not case hardened, and isn't strain hardened like 300 series stainless..
To gain back any lost load would mean to match the strain, which would require a 5% increase in torque, so long as there's at least 10% margin left in the design of the stud, it should be fine.
I'd rather have an iffy head stud vs a head that tf will no longer warranty and which may develop a hole. If an issue ever develops with the stud, it's not hard to remedy or take a different approach.
The grain structure of a through hardened fastener isn't going to be affected by such a small reduction in OD. It's not case hardened, and isn't strain hardened like 300 series stainless..
It's on the racey side so I'd like to keep the stud. I'm waiting to hear what Trickflow has to say but the plan is to open the hole up a bit.
TF heads made 22hp and 5 more tq that the ede heads, but a few things were off , not quite right will have to test more
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
numbers so far 418 hp 430 tq on the dyno was not there so no idea at what rpm i got the numbers think max revs were 5500 will know more later once it is ready for final pull
Trickflow/Summit response:
how tight are the studs in the block. A lot of people think that you have tighten them until they bottom out in the block and that is not the case. They should be tightened until they bottom out and then loosened a half-turn. If you tighten down until they bottom out, it will throw the stud on an angle, especially the longer studs.
We have also ran into a stock block durning R&D to where one of the holes in the block was a couple thou off, which made the longer stud even more off on the nut side.
I've turned a piece of stock to .500" on one end and .5285" on the other. The bolt holes are .530-.531" in the heads. I'll chuck my tool in my drill press, mount my head to a piece of plywood for easy clamping/holding ability, locate the head using the larger end of my alignment tool while it's chucked in my drill press and clamp it to the table. Then replace my tool with a 35/64" (.546875") drill bit and open the hole up. Only issue I can forsee is my tool I made may be too long causing a need to adjust the table height in otder to switch between centering tool and drill bit. Worst case scenario I have to shorten it.
how tight are the studs in the block. A lot of people think that you have tighten them until they bottom out in the block and that is not the case. They should be tightened until they bottom out and then loosened a half-turn. If you tighten down until they bottom out, it will throw the stud on an angle, especially the longer studs.
We have also ran into a stock block durning R&D to where one of the holes in the block was a couple thou off, which made the longer stud even more off on the nut side.
I've turned a piece of stock to .500" on one end and .5285" on the other. The bolt holes are .530-.531" in the heads. I'll chuck my tool in my drill press, mount my head to a piece of plywood for easy clamping/holding ability, locate the head using the larger end of my alignment tool while it's chucked in my drill press and clamp it to the table. Then replace my tool with a 35/64" (.546875") drill bit and open the hole up. Only issue I can forsee is my tool I made may be too long causing a need to adjust the table height in otder to switch between centering tool and drill bit. Worst case scenario I have to shorten it.
If you would see me throw my heads up on my drill press and drill them for tubing so I can do my port work you would say “hey I can do this”. Hell I’ve done some by hand.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. That goes a long ways for some of us that don't have as much experience. I'd bet that drill will follow that hole nicely hand drilling but I'm a worry wort. I've done a ton of this kind of stuff at work I've been in maintenance for a minute but always seem to get nerved up when it comes to my racing stuff. I know kinda dumb lol.
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