Trouble setting ride height, Bad LCA?? Need Help.

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Kent mosby

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So I got my used 892/893 torsion bars and new Viking shocks installed. When trying to set the ride height back to my reference 25.5 inches at the fender opening, my adjuster on the driver side is recessed 3/8 inch past level with the lower control arm and the piece that the adjuster pushes on is all the way up to hitting the frame. At this level, I am about 1/2 inch space on the bump stop. When I set the passenger side to the same depth, the fender opening height is 26.5 inches or more. I realize there may be some difference between sides but I must have something wrong. My K frame is a QA1

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FWIW, on the driver side I tried to adjust the torsion bar by dropping the LCA all the way down with the spindle removed. Now way to move back into place as the torsion bar would not move. This tells me I must be clocked correctly. but I could be wrong. Yes the 893L bar is on the driver's side. I tightened the LCA nut to 135 lbs torque at ride height.

It seems to me that the torsion bar adjuster arm (or whatever that is called) is looser than I have ever seen it. I can move it with channel locks to seat the torsion bars.

Help me get this fixed, please!!!
 
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Torsion bar is worn out, you've run out of adjustment.

It's unlikely you misclocked the LCA given that you're using stock LCA's and torsion bars. There should really be only one way you can install that LCA on the torsion bar. Usually the clocking issue only comes up with aftermarket torsion bars (different hex offset than factory) or tubular LCA's (which can hang down further because of their narrow profile). With the QA1 K member you may be able to hang the LCA's down further, but if you installed them the same on both sides and it's only an issue on the driver's side the bar is likely the issue.

Torsion bars wear out just like any other spring. Rather than "sagging" like a leaf spring, they basically lose offset. So you have to keep screwing the adjusters in further to maintain the same ride height. After awhile the adjusters have to be screwed all the way in to get the car back to a normal ride height. When you've run out of adjustment, it's time for new torsion bars.
 
72bluNblu said:
Torsion bar is worn out, you've run out of adjustment.

It's unlikely you misclocked the LCA given that you're using stock LCA's and torsion bars. There should really be only one way you can install that LCA on the torsion bar. Usually the clocking issue only comes up with aftermarket torsion bars (different hex offset than factory) or tubular LCA's (which can hang down further because of their narrow profile). With the QA1 K member you may be able to hang the LCA's down further, but if you installed them the same on both sides and it's only an issue on the driver's side the bar is likely the issue.

Torsion bars wear out just like any other spring. Rather than "sagging" like a leaf spring, they basically lose offset. So you have to keep screwing the adjusters in further to maintain the same ride height. After awhile the adjusters have to be screwed all the way in to get the car back to a normal ride height. When you've run out of adjustment, it's time for new torsion bars.
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Bummer, Because I bought them from a respected member here. Then the choice is, Do I go back to the PST 1.03 bars or try the /6 bars that were in place before that is sitting back in a corner. I will try to get this on the dragstrip but I am not going to race in class races and I don't want to put a roll cage in it, so 11.5 is as fast I need to be. Perhaps it is best to get the 1.03 bars back in and see how it goes.
 
Are the A arms a matched pair, left and right?
 
Kent mosby said:
Bummer, Because I bought them from a respected member here. Then the choice is, Do I go back to the PST 1.03 bars or try the /6 bars that were in place before that is sitting back in a corner. I will try to get this on the dragstrip but I am not going to race in class races and I don't want to put a roll cage in it, so 11.5 is as fast I need to be. Perhaps it is best to get the 1.03 bars back in and see how it goes.
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50 year old parts are 50 year old parts. There's really no way to tell they're worn out without putting them on a car, visually they can look just fine and still be worn out. And if they came off a car that doesn't do a ton of driving it's entirely possible no one noticed, it would just have been sitting low up front.

If the car is drag race only 1.03" bars won't be your best choice for launching, but unless you're going to be super competitive with it that won't matter a ton either.

Kent mosby said:
Yes they are matched 892/893
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I think he meant the LCA's, not the bars. As in, did you get your LCA's second hand too because maybe you got something other than an A-body LCA.

Also, the loose adjuster lever shouldn't effect your ride height adjustment. It's best to fix it, but the socket and lever being loose in the LCA isn't likely causing your issue.

Jim Lusk covers tightening up that play in his LCA rebuild video
 
Thanks all. My bad not reading correctly. I don’t blame anyone for the issue. No one could know. My LCA are original for my 73 scamp. I will re-install the 1.03 and see how it goes. I will watch the video now.
 
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If you are fixing your LCAs, I would recommend also putting a piece of flat bar on the back like you see here to reduce the spreading of the pivot.
 
I do the same thing with mine. I add the plate to the bottom and then a strap at the end to keep the socket/pivot arm from spreading the halves of the LCA. You do want the socket/pivot arm to rotate freely, but you don’t want it to be sloppy.

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Kent one of the first things I'd do before you get terribly excited, is to figure out if the REAR springs are causing the "off." Not exactly sure the best/ most definitive method, maybe jack under the "exact center" of the K member and see if there's any tilt from the rear, etc
 
67Dart273 said:
Kent one of the first things I'd do before you get terribly excited, is to figure out if the REAR springs are causing the "off." Not exactly sure the best/ most definitive method, maybe jack under the "exact center" of the K member and see if there's any tilt from the rear, etc
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I just changed over to the 1.03 and all is great for balance side to side height, bump stops and adjuster bolt position
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72bluNblu said:
Torsion bar is worn out, you've run out of adjustment.

It's unlikely you misclocked the LCA given that you're using stock LCA's and torsion bars. There should really be only one way you can install that LCA on the torsion bar. Usually the clocking issue only comes up with aftermarket torsion bars (different hex offset than factory) or tubular LCA's (which can hang down further because of their narrow profile). With the QA1 K member you may be able to hang the LCA's down further, but if you installed them the same on both sides and it's only an issue on the driver's side the bar is likely the issue.

Torsion bars wear out just like any other spring. Rather than "sagging" like a leaf spring, they basically lose offset. So you have to keep screwing the adjusters in further to maintain the same ride height. After awhile the adjusters have to be screwed all the way in to get the car back to a normal ride height. When you've run out of adjustment, it's time for new torsion bars.
Click to expand...
Question...a body with small block 340 4 link rear ....it has /6 torsion bars now no adjustment on driver side . im thinking of .092 torsion bars ...what is the clocking and where to buy them ,,,thanks
 
Dale Coulter said:
Question...a body with small block 340 4 link rear ....it has /6 torsion bars now no adjustment on driver side . im thinking of .092 torsion bars ...what is the clocking and where to buy them ,,,thanks
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How is the car used?

Honestly, unless it's a full time drag race car I wouldn't go smaller than the 1.03" bars offered by PST. PST has a FABO member discount as well. If you want to stay smaller than that Firm Feel sells bars that are .94" and also 1" (lots of others as well), Sway Away sells bars that are .96" (and lots of others).
 
72bluNblu said:
How is the car used?

Honestly, unless it's a full time drag race car I wouldn't go smaller than the 1.03" bars offered by PST. PST has a FABO member discount as well. If you want to stay smaller than that Firm Feel sells bars that are .94" and also 1" (lots of others as well), Sway Away sells bars that are .96" (and lots of others).
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I went ahead and purchased the 1.03 from PST. I will do the work on the LCA to tighten them up , got a little sloppiness in it. cant have no sloppiness!! lol
 
Kent mosby said:
Bummer, Because I bought them from a respected member here.
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As has been stated once before here, you bought 50 year old torsion bars. IF the seller didn't remove them himself because of a problem like you have had, I don't think there is a way to look at a bar and say they are worn out.
 
str12-340 said:
As has been stated once before here, you bought 50 year old torsion bars. IF the seller didn't remove them himself because of a problem like you have had, I don't think there is a way to look at a bar and say they are worn out.
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Yes, I know yawl are right...thanks for the help
 
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