Dart swinger 73
Well-Known Member
new circuit board only the red oil light comes on. Headlights work. Nothing else. At lease before I had blower motor. Can I energies each gage sepretly. Or buy a new harness with the round female plug. :banghead:
Trouble under my dashboard
- Thread starter Dart swinger 73
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Your post makes no sense and far far FAR from detailed
WHAT HAVE you checked? Power to fuse panel?
The blower motor has not one thing do to with the gauge cluster. Not one.
Does the car start and run? What specifically does and does not work?
Here's the deal...........
You can remove the cluster. Take it out. Forget where you put it.
Then you can bolt the two ammeter wires together and tape them, AND THE CAR WILL otherwise function perfectly.
And................DO YOU HAVE a service manual? If not go download one fer free......
here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
or here
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
WHAT HAVE you checked? Power to fuse panel?
The blower motor has not one thing do to with the gauge cluster. Not one.
Does the car start and run? What specifically does and does not work?
Here's the deal...........
You can remove the cluster. Take it out. Forget where you put it.
Then you can bolt the two ammeter wires together and tape them, AND THE CAR WILL otherwise function perfectly.
And................DO YOU HAVE a service manual? If not go download one fer free......
here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
or here
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
cudajim
cudajim
Huh?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I'll see your "Huh?" and raise you a !!??Whuuuu....??!! LMAO
Dart swinger 73
Well-Known Member
I have other things to other than sit and wait for someone to answer.
Dart starts up. Have all outside lights working. In stalled new circuit board. Disconnected the amp meter bolted and taped them together. Changed all the dash lights. Tested everyone before installing. Cleaned the round female plug that connects to the circuit board. Taped all steering column plugs together so they won't come apart. Before I could turn the blower motor and wipers on and off with the switches. Now nothing. No dash lights eather. I have the factory shop manual All I can think is I broke another wire. Stock wires in some places are very brittle under the dash. I have contanewity through all plugs while they were connected. I'm stuck. Can't paint until everything is working like new.i won't Micky Mouse anything on my cars. Like I said I'm at the point of ripping out the 42 years of stock wiring and replace with new wiring. I just Need to vent my frustrations. That better than throuthing thing aroun the shop.
Dart starts up. Have all outside lights working. In stalled new circuit board. Disconnected the amp meter bolted and taped them together. Changed all the dash lights. Tested everyone before installing. Cleaned the round female plug that connects to the circuit board. Taped all steering column plugs together so they won't come apart. Before I could turn the blower motor and wipers on and off with the switches. Now nothing. No dash lights eather. I have the factory shop manual All I can think is I broke another wire. Stock wires in some places are very brittle under the dash. I have contanewity through all plugs while they were connected. I'm stuck. Can't paint until everything is working like new.i won't Micky Mouse anything on my cars. Like I said I'm at the point of ripping out the 42 years of stock wiring and replace with new wiring. I just Need to vent my frustrations. That better than throuthing thing aroun the shop.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
So are we to ASSUME that JUST CAUSE you have a screen name descriptive of a vehicle that that's what you are talkin about here? Kind thin dontchya think?
Lemmie give ya a zample.
Hi all I have a (insert year, make and model here) with a (insert specific engine and drive train here) and this is the trouble I am having.
This is where you get as descriptive as humanly possible to help US help YOU. Because believe it or don't, you may not have time to sit by the old 'puter awaitin on a answer, but neither do we.
Lemmie give ya a zample.
Hi all I have a (insert year, make and model here) with a (insert specific engine and drive train here) and this is the trouble I am having.
This is where you get as descriptive as humanly possible to help US help YOU. Because believe it or don't, you may not have time to sit by the old 'puter awaitin on a answer, but neither do we.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
As I said the blower (and the wipers) have nothing to do with the cluster. You tore something loose somewhere. I guess it's too much work for you to communicate. Review my post. I asked you some questions. "This is a two way street"
Brittle or not, it's never the wiring. It's always connections. Connections at connectors, at or in switches or the fuse panel. Assuming someone has not chopped things up.
So I'm going to ask AGAIN
Do you have a service manual? THERE IS A REASON I asked you this
HAVE YOU CHECKED for power at the fuse panel? THERE IS A REASON I asked you this.
I'm trying to help you find out what is wrong. If you just want to rant and ***** and yell and throw things, I guess that's OK too. But you don't need to get on here and post a thread just to do that.
Now if you REALLY want help I'll be happy to do so. So can the attitude. OK?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Did you turn the key on? Oh I guess you did, cause the oil lite came on.
Kinda sounds like the acc feed from the key switch is not connecting to the fuse box. The problem may be a connector push-out at the connector at the bottom of the column. Course it could be other things too. Like blown fuses,melted wires,But all the major wires are ok, cause it cranks and runs.
No dash lights could be in that round wire connector or a fault on the new board, or no ground return or no feed. No gauges is probably a faulty feed to the little DG regulator, or again no ground return.
Yeah a wiring diagram will be your friend.
IIRC there is one screw on that board that connects the board ground to the dash bezel, that then grounds after the mounting screws are in.So if the dash is not secured, you would need an auxiliary jumper to ground.
Kinda sounds like the acc feed from the key switch is not connecting to the fuse box. The problem may be a connector push-out at the connector at the bottom of the column. Course it could be other things too. Like blown fuses,melted wires,But all the major wires are ok, cause it cranks and runs.
No dash lights could be in that round wire connector or a fault on the new board, or no ground return or no feed. No gauges is probably a faulty feed to the little DG regulator, or again no ground return.
Yeah a wiring diagram will be your friend.
IIRC there is one screw on that board that connects the board ground to the dash bezel, that then grounds after the mounting screws are in.So if the dash is not secured, you would need an auxiliary jumper to ground.
This is only ASSUMING that he is talkin bout SOME kinda Chrysler product WITH said amp gauge. For all we know he COULD be talkin bout Chevy, sine he STILL ain't confirmed even what it is he IS workin on.
Its the last YUGO! Why don't you all get that, I did!
Not sure of cryptic quiz but if it's an old Chrysler no dash lights = no stop lights usually = blown fuse or fault in the circuit.
The pins do get dry joints on the circuit board but the stop light switch is powered direct from fuse and I don't know of the US cars but the feed to the dash goes from the stop switch up to the dash. I would check the feed wire is still plugged into the brake switch at the peddle. It could have been knocked off when you were working under the dash head butting stuff.
The brake lights and all other lights should still work if the ign is on or off.
But the stop lights are on a separate circuit with the instrument lights.
The dash lights are powered via the head light switch with its variable resister to dim the dash. Therefor when you open the door or rotate the variable resister all the way to turn on the cabin light, that probably does not work either as this earths out that circuit via the head light switch.
The pins do get dry joints on the circuit board but the stop light switch is powered direct from fuse and I don't know of the US cars but the feed to the dash goes from the stop switch up to the dash. I would check the feed wire is still plugged into the brake switch at the peddle. It could have been knocked off when you were working under the dash head butting stuff.
The brake lights and all other lights should still work if the ign is on or off.
But the stop lights are on a separate circuit with the instrument lights.
The dash lights are powered via the head light switch with its variable resister to dim the dash. Therefor when you open the door or rotate the variable resister all the way to turn on the cabin light, that probably does not work either as this earths out that circuit via the head light switch.
This applies to a lot of vehicle brands/models of the era... The only 2 features of the instrument panel that will work while the panel is dangling from its harness connectors are brake indicator and oil indicator lamp. Every circuit in the car requires a chassis ground path though a daisy chain of parts, nuts, screws. The 2 circuits mentioned have 2 wires. Their ground path doesn't begin at the inst' housing.
Blower, wipers, radio, are accessories that get their power from a separate feed beginning at the ignition switch and routed through the fuse box. If you've gathered the wires and taped them too close and tight to their connectors you may have pulled them apart and created open circuits. Maybe shorts/sparks caused blown fuses.
Blower, wipers, radio, are accessories that get their power from a separate feed beginning at the ignition switch and routed through the fuse box. If you've gathered the wires and taped them too close and tight to their connectors you may have pulled them apart and created open circuits. Maybe shorts/sparks caused blown fuses.
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