Troubles with Turn Signals 67 Barracuda

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67Mungo

67Mungo

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Hello Again Forum,

I tied searching the site and while I find similar problems as mine I can't find an identical problem/solution.

I was driving and used my turn signal. I realized the green signal light wasn't lighting so I tried the other direction and noticed it wasn't either. I placed the signal lever in neutral and the flasher continued to click. Finally I found the flasher, jiggled it, and it stopped. What I'm finding is when the signal is actuated left or right, the flasher clicks but none of the lights, (indicators on dash, front ambers, rear reds) work. If I apply the brakes, the brake lights light up but if I put the turn signal on it goes dark in whichever direction is actuated. Hazard lights work great all around including the green indicator lights on the dash. I bought a wiring diagram and can confirm the fuse is good and power flows through it. Also should note it flasher no longer clicks when the signal is in neutral anymore.

Questions: Does the flasher have any function besides clicking? Any suggestions how to fix? Turn signal switch?

I HATE electrical so any advice is appreciated. Thanks Forum!

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Replace the flasher unit be sure you are replacing the correct one. It should be to the right of the ashtray.

The e flasher flasher is left of the e brake handle.

If you want to prove this out before buying one you can barrow the e flasher flasher a d put it in place of the turn signal flasher.


Just to check....

You have standard incondescent bulbs, have not modified the wiring, and it worked before the "electronic" flasher unit you show was installed.


Also all grounds at the light bulbs are connected
 
First, assuming your system is fairly original, IE original style flasher(s) and no LED replacement lamps, there are TWO flashers. One for hazard (4 way) and another for turn

BOTH flashers MUST have lamps hooked to them to flash. Usually, on older flashers AND depending on how "heavy duty" (part number) the flasher is, a burned out lamp will cause the unit to either flash not at all or change speed dramatically. So check lamps

Visualize your TS switch. It routes several sources and loads several different ways

What goes into the switch:

1..Hazard flasher power output, hot at all times (EDIT INCORRECT before 70). On the earlier cars like yours, hazard flasher feeds the separate dash mounted hazard switch
2...Turn flasher power output, hot only with key "on."
3....Switched brake lamp power coming from the brake pedal operated switch, and operable at all times

What comes out:

1...Left rear stop/ turn lamp filament
2...Right rear stop/ turn lamp filament
3....Left front turn filament,also branched off to feed instrument panel indicators and or fender indicators
4....Right front, same as left for indicators

WITH the TS switch in center, the switch routs power from the brake light switch to BOTH rear lamps

One thing you can do is to remove both flashers and temporarily connect a jumper wire across the two flasher terminals. That way, when you activate the turn switch or hazard switch, you can walk around an observe that the proper lamps are lighting, and bright.

OTHER tricks: Lamp sockets especially rear, that become ungrounded can be tricky, because with no ground, the two lamp filaments (tail and stop/ turn) are now in series, and will light 'sort of' improperly.
 
HOW THE hazards work, just for info. On the earlier cars with the dash mount hazard switch, it is a special switch. It has 4 terminals, and when off, all 4 terminals are separated. When engaged, all 4 are connected together.

1...The hazard flasher power feeds to one of the switch terminals at all times

2...When the switch is engaged, one terminal feeds to the brake light switch line, and so feeds out to both brake lamps with the TS column switch centered.

3....&4.....The last two terminals feed to the left and the right turn signal lamp wires.

So with the hazard switch engaged, the hazard flasher is now connected to all 4 turn lamp filaments.
 
Thanks for the help y'all. You were right with the flasher. My stupidity led me to believe its only function was to make the click sound. Not so! A simple glance at the wiring diagram should have made that obvious but like I said... stupidity on my part.
 
BTW the click sound is amplified when it is attached to the mounting bracket and the car.

The metal ones will be louder than the plastic ones
 
I spoke too soon. I was driving along nicely, heard a pop, and the car almost stalled. The clicking sound came back despite not engaging the blinkers. I managed to pull into a lot hoping the damn thing wasn't going to catch fire and she started running smooth again. Obviously the flasher is fried. Fuse didn't blow though. What the heck? I'd think if it was a short the fuse would blow. Can it be dumb luck with another bad flasher?

Also it may be related to a wiring issue. The gages work intermittently and when they shut off it you turn the windshield wipers on the begin to work. According to the wiring diagram this should not happen. In addition the dash lights don't work but they are in the circuit with the flasher. I HATE to do it, but sounds like I may have to take the dash out which I'm dreading.

Any suggestions besides rip it apart?
 
There is a phenomenon in Mopar wiring, iirc, if the wipers?, heater?, brake-lite (pedal depressed)?, 4-way?, are all activated with the key off, the 4-way will intermittently power all the for-mentioned+ stuff, - again, iirc.
Moral, make sure 4-way is off .
Good luck .
 
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inertia said:
There is a phenomenon in Mopar wiring, iirc, if the wipers?, heater?, brake-lite (pedal depressed)?, 4-way?, are all activated with the key off, the 4-way will intermittently power all the for-mentioned+ stuff, -
Click to expand...
Simpler than that.

Key out of ignition, Flashers on, turn signal left or right and press the brake, listen to the radio!

There is back feeding going on here and a high current device might make a low current device a fuse. So go easy and don't over do it.
 
You may have some wiring melted in harness and causing strange "cross connects." This is hard to run down, without just pulling the harness out for access and unwrapping it and inspecting it.

You have an evidence of "meltage?" Smell? Appearance, IE plastic damaged on the harness wrap, etc?

There is absolutely NOTHING that should cause the flasher to react. It comes (sourced) from the fuse panel, on the key "on" buss, through the flasher, and goes TO the column turn switch. With the switch centered, it should be "open." IT is possible you have something crazy in the switch.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Simpler than that.

Key out of ignition, Flashers on, turn signal left or right and press the brake, listen to the radio!

There is back feeding going on here and a high current device might make a low current device a fuse. So go easy and don't over do it.
Click to expand...
All true but the TS switch must be activated to operate the flasher, no matter what--unless there'a short/ cross connect
 
67Dart273 said:
All true but the TS switch must be activated to operate the flasher
Click to expand...
I was just replying to @inertia about the sequence to power things with the key off.

Yes the turn signal flasher unit ONLY functions when the turn signal switch is either left or right.
 
67Dart273 said:
You may have some wiring melted in harness and causing strange "cross connects." This is hard to run down, without just pulling the harness out for access and unwrapping it and inspecting it.

You have an evidence of "meltage?" Smell? Appearance, IE plastic damaged on the harness wrap, etc?

There is absolutely NOTHING that should cause the flasher to react. It comes (sourced) from the fuse panel, on the key "on" buss, through the flasher, and goes TO the column turn switch. With the switch centered, it should be "open." IT is possible you have something crazy in the switch.
Click to expand...
When it popped I was cruising at about 30 mph without the turn signal actuated. Since I've owned the car the radio has never worked and don't believe it's connected. The part that was odd is that the car hesitated and almost stalled for about three seconds after the pop, like there wasn't enough juice for the ignition and what was concerning is I'd think a fuse would blow before that would happen! No smell at at that indicates a burning wire or an electrical fire which I was absolutely concerned about. Nothing obvious either glancing. So in your opinion is it time to perhaps take the radio out and get the best possible view of the wires and unwrap any harness? What else makes it weird is this happened after about 15 minutes, not immediately. I should also mention my AutoMeter tach is connected to the fuse but still functions normally. Once again, the fuse didn't blow out which is so odd. Tach didn't blow out either.
I bought two more flashers from Napa but am hesitant to drive it as I don't want to stall out if it pops or start a fire.
 
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IS IT possible that you are hearing something else? Can you feel the flasher(s) and FEEL them click, or remove 1 or the other and confirm THAT flasher is causing the noise

Remember, you have 2---one for turn, one for hazard

But some cars have a breaker for other such as wipers, and the light switch has a breaker, or someone could have added a breaker.
 
Absolutely sure of it. The fist time it happened I felt the flasher "click" without the signal engaged. Literally could see the mechanism move and feel the vibration in my hand. The hazards work fine and continue to work fine after all this.
 
Took me all summer to get to it but I just replaced the turn signal switch in the steering wheel. @67Dart273 you had said potentially something crazy could be going on in the switch. Well two wires (red and white) had insulation cracked off at the same spot (see pic). Even if the signal wasn't actuated do you think this could have caused some kind of short or arcing? I drove it for about a half hour with no problems with the new switch. Still don't have 100% confidence though. Hoping someone's electrical expertise here can confirm if this could have indeed been the culprit. Thanks!

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67Mungo said:
Took me all summer to get to it but I just replaced the turn signal switch in the steering wheel. @67Dart273 you had said potentially something crazy could be going on in the switch. Well two wires (red and white) had insulation cracked off at the same spot (see pic). Even if the signal wasn't actuated do you think this could have caused some kind of short or arcing? I drove it for about a half hour with no problems with the new switch. Still don't have 100% confidence though. Hoping someone's electrical expertise here can confirm if this could have indeed been the culprit. Thanks!

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Just seeing this. Yes. My guess is almost certainly was a short. The flasher was clicking because power was going through it. it works like a self resetting circuit breaker - which is also probably why there was no fuse on them until the 70s.
The question then is where was short, and yes it might relate to the switch.

White wire is the power from the brake light switch. Step on the brake pedal and the white wire gets power. It is fused and the hazard flasher gets power from the same circuit.

Red wire is power from the turn signal flasher. It normally has power, and supplies the lamps when the switch is activated.

Here's my cheat for the 67 switch
1697337089195.png


Instrument panel turn indicators are turned on with the front turn signal lamps.
1697337624499.png

Those are the green and tan wires from cavity 1 and 3.
 
Thanks so much for this @Mattax ! When it comes to electrical I pretty much get brain freeze. I was under the impression that the red wire sent power TO the flasher when actuated to complete the circuit. Makes so much more sense that the power is coming FROM the flasher via red wire and gives me confidence that was indeed the problem. After the flasher would blow out the car ran great with no problems which makes sense because no power to cause the short. Definitely saving those diagrams you posted!
 
Glad that helped. You got it.
The way the turn signal switch is diagramed, the right and left arrows move seperately.
So a left signal looks like this.
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Power from flasher is connected to the green wires going to the front and rear lamps.
Brake light powerremains connected to the right rear lamp (dark brown wire).

Those are based on the Barracuda supplement. '67 Service supplement TSB 67-25-6
Cuda Al said:
The Barracuda was a late entry car for 67, production started October 31, 1966. So it is hard to say if the literature was even ready for the press when the manual went to press.

The Supplement was issued as a Service Bulletin, it includes everything unique to the Barracuda, otherwise use the Valiant in the regular Manual
https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1967_Plymouth_Service_Manual_Supplement.zip

Alan
Click to expand...

Gerald copied into CAD and pdferized them with layers.
1969383S said:
Steve, I do not have the Accessory wiring details but here is what was available from the updated 67 supplemental manual that I cadded. Seems I have posted them many times before.
Click to expand...

I've found a couple of differences in how the wires connect on my 67 coupe.
Function not changed but these things can make you scratch your head when working on stuff.

Two corrections to the factory diagram noted here.
I mention it only because you may have noticed two orange wires junctioned onthe turn signal connector.
 
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