Troubleshooting assistance - No response when turning key

[pblawman]

I'm a complete noob when it comes to vehicles. I went out to the garage last night to start my 1971 Duster 340. It started up fine, but stalled when I went to back out of the garage.

When I tried to restart, I got nothing. No clicks or sign that that anything was happening. I did have dashlights and radio, and my headlights worked, but nothing would even start the engine turning over. (I had the starter replaced a couple of months ago...and I don't think it would be the starter because I would usually hear a clicking sound).

Two minutes later after opening the hood and staring aimlessly, it started fine. I've done a couple of random starts and stops, and backed it out for a bit with no problem.

I'm afraid it will happen again when I go out, and I'm not sure what to look for to prevent or fix this. Thoughts?

 

[69FBCuda]

1st Check the battery voltage should be 12-14v
2st Clean the battery connections and the opposite ends of the cables ie.. block, starter

Another basic consideration is to make sure it's all the way in PARK or NEUTRAL for that matter

 

[Dartswinger70]

Ignition relay may be worth a check, also next tine it does it, jump the relay and see if it cranks.

 

[67Dart273]

HOW Mopar starter system works.......

Whether stick or automatic, the starter relay gets the coil ground via neutral safety switch (auto) or clutch pedal switch (stick)

The ignition switch when twisted to start sends power out the yellow start wire into the engine bay to one "push on" flag terminal of the start relay. The ground end goes to the NSS or clutch switch. Try working the clutch or wiggling the shift lever while holding key ot "start."

You can take simple measurements BUT an intermittent is going to be harder

Listen CLOSE if possible during a failure Open hood "gently" if possible and listen for very light "click" of starter relay. If not, could be start relay, wiring to coil, neutral switch or lack of "start" power from key

Then try to "jumper" solenoid. Use ANY metal, quarter, keyring, screwdriver to jumper the two large bare terminals on relay--the large stud to the "square" nut/ screw connection. This puts battery power direct to starter solenoid

 

[Dana67Dart]

Then try to "jumper" solenoid. Use ANY metal, quarter, keyring, screwdriver to jumper the two large bare terminals on relay--the large stud to the "square" nut/ screw connection. This puts battery power direct to starter solenoid

Watch out for the bite!

2 things i dont like about doing this...

1. Typically you scar the posts on the relay, posably making it hard to remove the nuts in the future.
2. The starter can produce energy like a coil when energized and under certain conditions, it can zap you like a coil. ( I did it on a ford starter, you would have thought i was holding onto a 120v wire)
3. IMHO starter relays are cheap enough to have a spare.

 

[Dartswinger70]

I usually use a remote starter switch also...jumping at thr relay tests th erelay and lets you know all is good from battery to relay to starter. then you look at the starter switch to relay and clutch/ neutral safety switches etc.

 

[Divenut]

In addition to the aforementioned suggestions, also check the bulk head connections. Same thing happened to me once, fiddle with bulkhead an fired up. Just a thought.

 

[MoparMike1974]

Put it in neutral and see if it will crank. If not, hold the key in crank position and move the shifter from reverse through to 1 and see if you hit the sweet spot.
Another quick check is put a test light on the crank wire on the solenoid while someone turns the key. If that has power check the other terminal for ground. If you dont have a ground check your neutral switch.

 

[66 Valiant wagon]

If yours had the single post Neutral Safety switch on the trans I've had that connection come loose and cause intermittent starting for me I the past.