Truck lite phase 7 LED headlight

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71duster06

71duster06

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What an improvement!!!! I replaced my halogen Sylvania Silverstars (which actually worked pretty good) with these Truck-Lite led headlights. Amazed by the increased visibility in distance, width, light quality across the board. Highly recommend these to you guys. I picked mine up on eBay with next day free shipping. I will post some pictures tonight. Nice thing with these is they are a direct plug and go solution. The only thing I added was a larger wire from the driver to passenger headlight on the high beam circuit.

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=92025
 

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Very nice design, not too keen on the price. For now i will stick w H4 halogens , and a relay mod.

Maybe i will get them once the price goes down.
 
Yup, I was the same way but once I saw the improvement I have no reservations... Up here in Michigan I can buy a whole lot of headlights for the cost of hitting a deer which I see every time I drive at night. They should slowly come down in price though.

moparmat2000 said:
Very nice design, not too keen on the price. For now i will stick w H4 halogens , and a relay mod.

Maybe i will get them once the price goes down.
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you can get Trucklite brand at Napa, about $249 each.
 
62v200 said:
you can get Trucklite brand at Napa, about $249 each.
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No way in HELL they are 500 DOLLARS brighter than Cibie E codes and a good Osram bulbs.
 
I got my first drivers license in 1965 when I was in high school. I know for a fact that if you added up everything I've ever spent on headlights, it won't total up to 500 bucks, LMAO

'S far's I'm concerned this sort of thing is an outright ripoff. LEDs are very cheap to buy. Most of the "engineering" is already done.
 
Engineering and building a good headlamp of any type is a whole hell of a lot more expensive than most people realise. That's why there are so many lousy headlamps on the market, mostly made in India or China with grossly inadequate (or "zero") real engineering in them, and why almost all the really good ones cost a lot of money -- especially when the price is viewed from the perspective of being accustomed to paying $9 for a sealed beam.

There's a growing number of LED 7" round headlamps on the market, and they range in quality and performance from pathetic to excellent. The 701C from Peterson is good. The Truck-Lite unit is good, though it doesn't give a very smooth beam pattern. By a big, big margin, the king daddy of them all is the 8700 Evolution 2 from JW Speaker in chrome or black. Any of these utterly trounces the objective, real, measurable safety performance you can get from a halogen headlamp of any kind, and they're all made in America. But they're all spendy.

There are no good sealed beams generally available on today's market—there's no money in sealed beams any more, so just about all of them are sloppily made on worn-out tooling that should have been scrapped and replaced years ago (or, as in the case of Wagner, bought from Eiko who sloppily makes them on new but shìtty tooling in China). There's one line of sealed beams (GE Night Hawk) that's the least-bad of the bunch. Everything from Sylvania and Wagner is godawful. There's one very difficult-to-get, very expensive 7" round halogen sealed beam by Koito that is a serious whack over the head to drive with at night: Oh! So that's how well the sealed beam headlamp system was supposed to work!

Pathetic H4s are all over the place and are unsafe. Good H4s are relatively scarce and are passably decent in terms of safety performance. A good H4 headlamp (Cibie or Koito) with a good H4 bulb (Philips Xtreme Vision or Osram 70/65w) fed with good wiring and relays -- and aimed correctly is a good, affordable, cost-effective way to go for those who can't or won't spend money on super-premium headlamps.
 
^^^^^ What he says ^^^^^

Not to mention minimal current draw. Win Win
 
I'll take some pictures tonight. On YouTube I saw the video talking about the light beam crossing. Fortunately after I installed them I have not had that issue. Either way pretty happy with these lights.

slantsixdan said:
Engineering and building a good headlamp of any type is a whole hell of a lot more expensive than most people realise. That's why there are so many lousy headlamps on the market, mostly made in India or China with grossly inadequate (or "zero") real engineering in them, and why almost all the really good ones cost a lot of money -- especially when the price is viewed from the perspective of being accustomed to paying $9 for a sealed beam.

There's a growing number of LED 7" round headlamps on the market, and they range in quality and performance from pathetic to excellent. The 701C from Peterson is good. The Truck-Lite unit is good, though it doesn't give a very smooth beam pattern. By a big, big margin, the king daddy of them all is the 8700 Evolution 2 from JW Speaker in chrome or black. Any of these utterly trounces the objective, real, measurable safety performance you can get from a halogen headlamp of any kind, and they're all made in America. But they're all spendy.

There are no good sealed beams generally available on today's market—there's no money in sealed beams any more, so just about all of them are sloppily made on worn-out tooling that should have been scrapped and replaced years ago (or, as in the case of Wagner, bought from Eiko who sloppily makes them on new but shìtty tooling in China). There's one line of sealed beams (GE Night Hawk) that's the least-bad of the bunch. Everything from Sylvania and Wagner is godawful. There's one very difficult-to-get, very expensive 7" round halogen sealed beam by Koito that is a serious whack over the head to drive with at night: Oh! So that's how well the sealed beam headlamp system was supposed to work!

Pathetic H4s are all over the place and are unsafe. Good H4s are relatively scarce and are passably decent in terms of safety performance. A good H4 headlamp (Cibie or Koito) with a good H4 bulb (Philips Xtreme Vision or Osram 70/65w) fed with good wiring and relays -- and aimed correctly is a good, affordable, cost-effective way to go for those who can't or won't spend money on super-premium headlamps.
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On my 08 Jeep they kinda make a little "W" about 25 yards out where the lights cross... I am not sure whether the stock lights had this problem or not, because they would not project that far out.
 

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Heywodja said:
On my 08 Jeep they kinda make a little "W" about 25 yards out where the lights cross...
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The headlamp beams should not cross. The US/Canada-market JK ('07-up) Wranglers do not have a provision for adjustment of the horizontal (left/right) aim of the headlamps, only for the vertical (up/down). This is because of a quirk of the US headlamp regulations. In most cases this is of no consequence; the horizontal aim is set/fixed at straight ahead. If you wish to (or need to) add horizontal aim adjustability, you will need two Mopar part number 5507 8114AA (Screw, headlamp horizontal) which should cost only around $5 from any Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram dealer. Here is how to install them: Remove the grille and headlight assembly. Carefully remove the black headlamp mount ring/bucket by pulling straight out. Unscrew the pivot stud, thread in the new adjustment screw, push the ring back on, and put the light back in. Then you will have to carefully aim the headlamps not only vertically but also horizontally, keeping in mind headlamp aim is not subject to opinions or preferences; there is only one correct setting.
 
slantsixdan said:
The headlamp beams should not cross. The US/Canada-market JK ('07-up) Wranglers do not have a provision for adjustment of the horizontal (left/right) aim of the headlamps, only for the vertical (up/down). This is because of a quirk of the US headlamp regulations. In most cases this is of no consequence; the horizontal aim is set/fixed at straight ahead. If you wish to (or need to) add horizontal aim adjustability, you will need two Mopar part number 5507 8114AA (Screw, headlamp horizontal) which should cost only around $5 from any Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram dealer. Here is how to install them: Remove the grille and headlight assembly. Carefully remove the black headlamp mount ring/bucket by pulling straight out. Unscrew the pivot stud, thread in the new adjustment screw, push the ring back on, and put the light back in. Then you will have to carefully aim the headlamps not only vertically but also horizontally, keeping in mind headlamp aim is not subject to opinions or preferences; there is only one correct setting.
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Dan beat me to it! I found this out over at a wrangler forum, after I saw the "X" artifact in my Truck-lites.
 
Thanks for the info on the aiming mod.

Regarding the artifact in the truck-lites lighting, it really doesn't bother me, all I was really looking for was a replacement for the horrible lighting on the wrangler, which is actually better than my dart.

I guess that you could probably pick up a set of 07-2015 stock wrangler lights and use them in the A-bodies if you wanted.

My son hooked me up with the LED's for the dart for Fathers day.

They do what I wanted and they are plenty bright, sometimes I even feel bad for people who have to look into them when they are approaching me at night...sometimes.


Plus they look kinda badass when they are turned on low beam.
 
Heywodja said:
Regarding the artifact in the truck-lites lighting, it really doesn't bother me
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This is a good example of the large difference between a headlamp's actual, real performance and its perceived output. The two often don't match, because what we feel like we're seeing isn't what we're actually seeing. The human visual system is a lousy judge of how well it's doing. We humans are just not well equipped to accurately evaluate how well or poorly we can see (or how well a headlamp works). Our subjective impressions tend to be very far out of line with objective, real measurements of how well we can (or can't) see.

There are a lot of headlamps that give adequate-to-good safety performance but are uncomfortable to drive with (such as the '07-up Jeep Wrangler stock headlamp), and there are also a lot of headlamps that give poor safety performance but create the feeling of "good" lighting. The main factor that drives subjective impressions of headlamp performance is foreground light, that is light on the road surface close to the vehicle.
Problem is, foreground light is almost irrelevant; it barely even makes it onto the bottom of the list of factors that determine a headlamp's actual safety performance. Some foreground light is necessary so we can use our peripheral vision to keep track of the lane lines and keep our focus up the road where it should be, but too much foreground light works against us: it draws our gaze downward even if we consciously try to keep looking far ahead, and the bright pool of light causes our pupils to constrict, which destroys our distance vision. All of this while creating the feeling that we've got "good" lights. Keep ramping the foreground light up, and subjective ratings of the headlamps keep getting better even as real safety nosedives. It's not because we're lying to ourselves or fooling ourselves or anything like that, it's because our visual systems just don't work the way it feels like they work.

I guess that you could probably pick up a set of 07-2015 stock wrangler lights and use them in the A-bodies if you wanted.
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Yep, you can. They're safe and adequate (and readily available if you look around...plenty of Jeep Wrangler owners swap them out for something they like better). You can also buy aftermarket copies of them, but don't, because they're all junk.

Back to your new LED headlamps:

They do what I wanted and they are plenty bright, sometimes I even feel bad for people who have to look into them when they are approaching me at night...sometimes.
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Good headlamps, properly aimed(!) generally do not cause unsafe or uncomfortable amounts of glare to other drivers.
 
At least for me these are a HUGE improvement. The color temperature, dispersion and and overall projection pattern works for my preferences. I agree with the OP 100%, but what I have to say that doesn't really matter anyway.


Just like some folks are satisfied with a slant six and others need a blown hemi. They all get you where you need to go (and sometimes where you shouldn't be when not properly aimed) and they all are adequate for their intended purposes, but to each his own.

Plus my eye-o-mometer says they work more gooder too.
 
This doesn't appear to use a pigtail like the Truck Lite.
It's just a little more.
Once the decision is made to bite the bullet, what about it?
http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/1408-sylvania-launches-zevo-led-retrofit-headlights/
I'm all about taking electrical load off the system.
Just moving it somewhere else on the car doesn't work for me.
(And not seeing it on the amp meter).
Relays plus the H4 adaption sort of adds up.
How long before the R&D is paid for till the cost comes down is my other question.
 
That "Sylvania Zevo" LED headlamp is in fact the Peterson light I linked in post № 10 of this thread. Sylvania buys it, private-branded, from Peterson. So does KC. Same lamp, different branding.

The Truck-Lite unit is also available in a GE box or a Philips box, too.

The cost of all of these has already come down bigtime compared to "day one", and it's still on a downward trend as cost-per-lumen comes down on the LEDs themselves.
 
Sorry but i remembered that i never posted some pictures of these healights on the road...

First picture is the low beams, second is high beams.

The more i drive this car at night now the more impressed I am. Better light than my 2005 Saab 95 headlights.
 

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