Truck manifolds on Dart Sport?

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Woodsman341

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I did a search but didn't find the answer I was looking for. I bought my 360 Dart Sport used recently, and it came with some beat to crap, very low hanging headers. Since I know it can be a pain to install headers with power steering and power brakes, I am considering using factory exhaust manifolds, but obviously want something with better flow than the original LA 360 logs. A local buddy has a set of manifolds that came from a 360 truck (unsure of the year). My question is - are they likely to fit? Also, will they be any better than the stock Dart manifolds were? I'll be driving it on normal streets, no real racing.

Thanks!
 
I believe the truck manifolds exit in a different location than a car does, but the flow should still be fairly close. Either way, headers are a far better choice. If you want to use factory exhaust manifolds, I think the ones from a Magnum V8 flow much better. Maybe from a V8 equipped Jeep G.C.
 
Some of the truck manifolds from the "Magnum" series engines do flow well. Not nearly as well as headers but still better than standard 318 units.
The 1992-1993 Magnum manifolds had a 2 1/4" outlet. The right side clears an A body. I've used them. They exit over and behind the oil filter. The right side is an excellent unit because it eliminates 2 bends and allows for a 2 1/4" or even a 2 1/2" head pipe with just a 45 degree bend when turning to run under the floor pan.

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The left side is always the pisser.
The truck manifolds might fit with manual steering but the column jacket will likely need to be trimmed. I ran a 68-71 340 manifold on the left side.

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The damn steering box is the main obstacle there. The options are an upswept design like the standard A body units or a 318-360 mid 1970s manifold that needs some grinding to clear the steering box.
 
Kern Dog said:
Some of the truck manifolds from the "Magnum" series engines do flow well. Not nearly as well as headers but still better than standard 318 units.
The 1992-1993 Magnum manifolds had a 2 1/4" outlet. The right side clears an A body. I've used them. They exit over and behind the oil filter. The right side is an excellent unit because it eliminates 2 bends and allows for a 2 1/4" or even a 2 1/2" head pipe with just a 45 degree bend when turning to run under the floor pan.

View attachment 1716023433

The left side is always the pisser.
The truck manifolds might fit with manual steering but the column jacket will likely need to be trimmed. I ran a 68-71 340 manifold on the left side.

View attachment 1716023434


The damn steering box is the main obstacle there. The options are an upswept design like the standard A body units or a 318-360 mid 1970s manifold that needs some grinding to clear the steering box.
Click to expand...

As I am loathe to grind, cut, or hammer things out of shape, maybe I'll have to spring for a set of quality headers after all.

I've heard that Doug's and TTI are good, but haven't researched enough to see which of them (if either) don't require removing the steering link or putting on a costly mini starter. I wish I could remember which brand I used on my '75 back in '85...they went on with relative ease and I used the stock starter. The odd thing I remember is that they were a chalky white color. Anyway....thanks for the input!
 
The Dougs are supposed to be as good as the TTIs for about 2/3 the price.
There are some C H E A P headers out there for small block A body cars and they are a pisser. They hang low and often need dents to clear the torsion bars, steering box and who knows what else. The pipe routing often requires some creative solutions for plug wire placement to avoid burns.
 
Kern Dog said:
The Dougs are supposed to be as good as the TTIs for about 2/3 the price.
There are some C H E A P headers out there for small block A body cars and they are a pisser. They hang low and often need dents to clear the torsion bars, steering box and who knows what else. The pipe routing often requires some creative solutions for plug wire placement to avoid burns.
Click to expand...

Now, the ones I currently have do hang low, but it's made worse by the fact the previous owner put the nose in the dirt by adjusting the torsion bars...top two inches of the front tires are hidden behind the fender. Anyway, they are dented either from hanging so low or "fitment" purposes, and sometimes on left turns the steering link drags on one of them, depending on the lean of the car.
 
Woodsman341 said:
previous owner put the nose in the dirt by adjusting the torsion bars...top two inches of the front tires are hidden behind the fender.
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So what?


Folsom 5 (2).JPG

Yeah, yeah....the Charger wheel opening is probably lower than a Dart but I love the look of a wheel and tire stuffed up in the body. It reminds me of this:

Charger NC 1.jpg


Bad mu fu.jpg


8100 H.jpg
 
The stock 72 to 74 340-360 manifolds are relatively cheap compared to the earlier 340 ones. It makes for an easy install and you can use stock-ish exhaust pipes. You will probably not notice much difference for a lot of extra work with other manifolds.

I took the cheap crap headers off mine with a sawzall & went to exhaust manifolds.
 
Woodsman341 said:
I did a search but didn't find the answer I was looking for. I bought my 360 Dart Sport used recently, and it came with some beat to crap, very low hanging headers. Since I know it can be a pain to install headers with power steering and power brakes, I am considering using factory exhaust manifolds, but obviously want something with better flow than the original LA 360 logs. A local buddy has a set of manifolds that came from a 360 truck (unsure of the year). My question is - are they likely to fit? Also, will they be any better than the stock Dart manifolds were? I'll be driving it on normal streets, no real racing.

Thanks!..
Click to expand...
Truck LA 360 manifolds can be made to work on the passenger side, but won't fit the driver's side at all, power or manual.
Magnum manifolds, same deal. Fit the passenger side but not the driver's side with power steering.
I honestly don't know that anything "flows better" than the original (A body) "360 logs" except headers or possibly the Magnum manifolds. The 360 A body manifolds were the same as the later 340 manifolds, which were some of the best Ma Mopar offered. Pricey to find now.
As far as headers go, TTI and Doug's are generally considered the industry standard, but Patriots are pretty good and come in at about half the price of Doug's (same parent company, too, currently under $300).
And if you're concerned about full length tubes hanging too low for you, consider the Hedman Tight Tubes (shorties) that also clear your power steering (just a hair over $400 right now).
 
Woodsman341 said:
As I am loathe to grind, cut, or hammer things out of shape, maybe I'll have to spring for a set of quality headers after all.

I've heard that Doug's and TTI are good, but haven't researched enough to see which of them (if either) don't require removing the steering link or putting on a costly mini starter. I wish I could remember which brand I used on my '75 back in '85...they went on with relative ease and I used the stock starter. The odd thing I remember is that they were a chalky white color. Anyway....thanks for the input!
Click to expand...
The Dakota starter can be had at any parts store for under 100 bucks.
 
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If you decide to go the header route, check out Auto Zone. I just got a set of Dougs for my Dart, under $500 to my door
 
My 70 Dart, had 2 1/8 right side 92 Magnum RT manifold and driver's side 69 340 manifold. No problems

When I discovered that I was leaving 20:hp on the table vs headers I got Doug's D453's.

Had to raise the driver's 1/2 inch with washers to clear ps box, clearance is very tight between the box and the coupler. I was concerned that the additional heat would damage the ps box,.

I removed the tie rod ends, steering box arm, and center link as I was also rebuilding the front suspension, which made header installation easier.

Quality control was poor on our A bodies. The same set up in another 70 could be a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch difference plus or minus.

Dougs and TTI do not have the center link passing thru them when installed versus other cheaper headers. I had heard and read that many have bought inferior headers
That hung TOO LOW and we're easily smashed and dinged.

I ordered a new manual box with fast 16.1 ratio, a Borgeson universal joint for the steering column rod. Zero problems anticipated, many here have done the same thing with excellent results.
 
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Yea, shimming engine mounts or loosening both sides and levering the engine in the right direction may get you a little more room. Not fun!
 
i bought a 70 darts parts car from some hillbillies a few years ago. they had late 70's truck manifolds on it and the drivers hit. power steering box maybe? (cant remember) their remedy was some linoleum stacked up like washer under the motor mount
 
RustyRatRod said:
The Dakota starter can be had at any parts store for under 100 bucks.
Click to expand...
I got mine for 12 bucks out of the pick a part 7 years ago.
Well, it was 2 bucks to get in the place so 14.
That’s 2 bucks a year for literally thousands of starts a year.:D
 
i paid 43 bucks for a 53009376 1996 jeep g/c passengers side he would not budge on the price
 
chrisf said:
i bought a 70 darts parts car from some hillbillies a few years ago. they had late 70's truck manifolds on it and the drivers hit. power steering box maybe? (cant remember) their remedy was some linoleum stacked up like washer under the motor mount
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Under the motor mount? I'm not really able to picture that. Can you elaborate? Because I thought the motor mounts specifically kept the motor from being raised...
 
chrisf said:
i bought a 70 darts parts car from some hillbillies a few years ago. they had late 70's truck manifolds on it and the drivers hit. power steering box maybe? (cant remember) their remedy was some linoleum stacked up like washer under the motor mount
Click to expand...

I think I understand now...I was thinking about the motor mount as in the round poly bushing that the center bolt runs through, but now I think you mean the actual metal mount bolted to the frame, right? Shimming underneath that part? That makes sense, I think. Would I have to smim both sides equally to avoid some other issues, or just the driver's side a bit?

This, of course, only applies if I get headers with fitment problems.
 
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