Trunion and ball

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Frank Dinatally

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I have a 65 barracuda automatic with ball and trunion. What valve body would Interchange with it? Also it possible the trunion to be making like a rattle noise? Only when getting and off the gas. Also always thanks in advance for any help
Frank
 
I believe that valve body is specific to those early shift cable type transmissions. @Charrlie_S can tell us for sure, I bet. But yes, the trunnion joint can make all kinda noises. Rattles, squeaks and even a big crashing noise when the car flips over after the front of the drive shaft falls out and digs into the road. lol
 
I have a 65 barracuda automatic with ball and trunion. What valve body would Interchange with it? Also it possible the trunion to be making like a rattle noise? Only when getting and off the gas. Also always thanks in advance for any help
Frank
65 Valiant/Barracuda is a one year only 904 trans. The valve body does not directly interchange with any other year. However, SOME 64 valve bodies can be modified to work in the 65 trans. All 65 valve bodies can be made to work in the 60-64 trans
 
65 Valiant/Barracuda is a one year only 904 trans. The valve body does not directly interchange with any other year. However, SOME 64 valve bodies can be modified to work in the 65 trans. All 65 valve bodies can be made to work in the 60-64 trans
Thanks, Charlie. I knew you would know. Do you still have that 65 904 you came and got from me in Macon years ago?
 
I have a 65 barracuda automatic with ball and trunion. What valve body would Interchange with it? Also it possible the trunion to be making like a rattle noise? Only when getting and off the gas. Also always thanks in advance for any help
Frank

The ball and trunnion has sets of needle bearings in there (the ball part) might allow for some play if they are worn. Double check the torque and play on those I would think. They have rebuild kits but you have to be very careful with the pin etc, to keep proper balance.

Anyone else have thoughts here?
 
One way to "test" the B&T is to remove the coupling flange at the trans. Put 2 or 3 flat washers on each stud, and reinstall the shaft. If that cures or reduces the problem, your joint is bad. Don't leave it that way. This is just to test the joint. If the boot is ripped, and the grease is gone, the joint is shot.
 
And I don't know if Charlie_S has done this, but I chose to NOT remove the pin when I did the rebuild tore it all down and found a good video showing how to snake the boot on without damage. Replaced the balls and needle bearings as well.
 
And I don't know if Charlie_S has done this, but I chose to NOT remove the pin when I did the rebuild tore it all down and found a good video showing how to snake the boot on without damage. Replaced the balls and needle bearings as well.
SSHH don't tell anyone, but I have never replaced the pin. Many years ago, BC (before chevy), I did my first B&T. I could not get the old pin to budge with a 30 ton press. The pin was visibly good, so left it alone. That's what I have done on all of them.
 
SSHH don't tell anyone, but I have never replaced the pin. Many years ago, BC (before chevy), I did my first B&T. I could not get the old pin to budge with a 30 ton press. The pin was visibly good, so left it alone. That's what I have done on all of them.
:lol:

I don't feel so bad now
 
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