TRW ps pump question

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4spdragtop said:
Thanks Murray, although this wasn't my intention I'm at this godforsaken point now. So I can at least post pics. I had a twin to this pump and sold it dammit.
Stopped at about 5 places today and no luck with clip. I gotta couple external snap rings I'll try?
Thing needs brakes too, what a nightmare looking for those as well. Should be in tomorrow, fingers crossed they fit.
Thanks
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Steve , I'm waiting on parts also, alternator.
 
I know this is frustrating, but I think that about 50% of everything that I know, I learned the hard way. These are lessons you don't easily forget. I think you did great, you persevered and saw it through to the end. You are not a quitter. And we all learned something. Good luck on finishing.
 
Thanks Murray, this WAS the needle bearing. Hidden behind lip seal. Gotta use dremel or hacksaw blade to remove it.....back down the rabbit hole...

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Thanks Murray, only one bearing in this pump. It sits in behind the lip seal.
Threw needle bearing in freezer over night to help with pressing in. Used bolts and washers to pull bearing in. Then lip seal.

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Ok buttoned up, pulley went on a smidge further. I measured and shaft is approx 0.008 proud of the pulley. I lifted front end and bled the prick forever. Let it sit overnight, then fired up.
Thanks all for advice and encouragement.
I've a wack more photos of anyone wants, but here is a new video.
 
Still trying to understand the internal design, sorry. I liked your photos of main shaft and front support with bearing and seal. But picture of the main shaft shows some type of support on the back side, on the other side of the vanes. Something must support the other end of the shaft- what is it? Thanks- I'm a dummy.
 
Lemme dig up some pics Murray. Lots on my phone.
Murray said:
Still trying to understand the internal design, sorry. I liked your photos of main shaft and front support with bearing and seal. But picture of the main shaft shows some type of support on the back side, on the other side of the vanes. Something must support the other end of the shaft- what is it? Thanks- I'm a dummy.
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Hope I got the pics in the right order.
1st pic is shaft with rotor attached. Rotor and vanes simply slide onto shaft. Vanes(4 of) are spring loaded and have 2 springs per vane. So reinstalling is a bit of a pain. Used zipties to hold vanes and springs in rotor. You can see in 2nd pic the brass/bronze?? bushing where the rotor end of the shaft rides. 5th pic shows rotor installed. Last pic shows the part with needle bearing and lip seal. It also has on oring on the outer perimeter. It gets pressed into pump housing with shaft helping to guide it on.
Essentially if you remove reservoir and look at back of pump you will see the shaft and the brass/bronze bushing.
Hope that helps. Loads more pics lol
Murray said:
Still trying to understand the internal design, sorry. I liked your photos of main shaft and front support with bearing and seal. But picture of the main shaft shows some type of support on the back side, on the other side of the vanes. Something must support the other end of the shaft- what is it? Thanks- I'm a dummy.
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Thanks a lot, now I understand the inner workings. So I guess the kit did not include the bushing, which may or not be a problem in future rebuilds. I can understand a bearing only in the front as that is where all the load is. Front bearing and rear bushing are submerged in oil, haven't seen either give out, very reliable. Until your's. Thanks for the education.
 
You can see in the pics of the shaft, someone mentioned the "dulling" on shaft and that may be a sign that needle bearing was toast.
Approx 2/3 of the way down shaft.
The LH end of shaft is supported by bushing in pump body.
Murray said:
Thanks a lot, now I understand the inner workings. So I guess the kit did not include the bushing, which may or not be a problem in future rebuilds. I can understand a bearing only in the front as that is where all the load is. Front bearing and rear bushing are submerged in oil, haven't seen either give out, very reliable. Until your's. Thanks for the education.
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Another difference between TRW and Federal pump- you can see that the TRW pump "loads" from the front and the back end of the shaft is exposed enabling support of the shaft when pressing on the pulley. The Federal pump "loads" from the back and is capped off by a large "plug", thus covering the end of the shaft. To properly press on a pulley on these pumps, the rear cover needs to be removed to support the shaft. Now we all know more about these pumps- thanks for the photos.
 
Here is a disassembly video on the TRW pump from a big block that should fill in the missing pieces of the puzzle. Just for the record this is not me or anyone related to me but kudos to him for posting good content.



I’m going to attempt a rebuild of my pump. The 40 degree morning here in Missouri are starting to make my pump growl. Thanks for everyone posting what they know on the subject. As I don’t believe there is a cast iron water pump small block power steering swap for ‘67 and later cars. If I would have know I would have conveyed to a ‘70 and later timing cover and the matching radiator. When I was doing my engine swap. Should have a Saginaw swap option. Live and learn.
 
thanks 4spdragtop for this thread and all the photos/videos!

I have a trw pump that is leaking at high speeds. Also noticed the shaft is moving in and out when belt speed is increased and wondered if this was normal. - see that it is not after reviewing your thread. Thanks for posting your findings.
I am still trying to wrap my head around all the parts and how they work/go together. Will study the post in depth and may be trying my hand at rebuilding all the way down to replacing the bearings.
I am somewhat mechanically inclined (it usually takes me three tries to get it almost right -lol) and I am up for a mild challenge but have limited tooling (no press, etc) so need to figure out if I should attempt doing it myself if I will be better off trying to find a good rebuilder or someone who has a good pump available.
 
MObarracuda said:
Here is a disassembly video on the TRW pump from a big block that should fill in the missing pieces of the puzzle. Just for the record this is not me or anyone related to me but kudos to him for posting good content.



I’m going to attempt a rebuild of my pump. The 40 degree morning here in Missouri are starting to make my pump growl. Thanks for everyone posting what they know on the subject. As I don’t believe there is a cast iron water pump small block power steering swap for ‘67 and later cars. If I would have know I would have conveyed to a ‘70 and later timing cover and the matching radiator. When I was doing my engine swap. Should have a Saginaw swap option. Live and learn.
Click to expand...

Just found This bracket. Says it is for cast iron water pumps and Saginaw pumps for A-bodies 67-69. I will need to find out more to see if This is the missing link “bracket” that will bridge the gap to go from the rare unsupported TRW pump to get to the prolific Saginaw pump

https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/
power-steering-pump-bracket-saginaw-type-67-69-small-block/
 
No problem posting my findings. I went further into the pump than I wanted to, but I didnt have a choice as pulley was not installed in correct spot. I had access to a press, without one I dont think I would have had success.
Good luck
Fishing68 said:
thanks 4spdragtop for this thread and all the photos/videos!

I have a trw pump that is leaking at high speeds. Also noticed the shaft is moving in and out when belt speed is increased and wondered if this was normal. - see that it is not after reviewing your thread. Thanks for posting your findings.
I am still trying to wrap my head around all the parts and how they work/go together. Will study the post in depth and may be trying my hand at rebuilding all the way down to replacing the bearings.
I am somewhat mechanically inclined (it usually takes me three tries to get it almost right -lol) and I am up for a mild challenge but have limited tooling (no press, etc) so need to figure out if I should attempt doing it myself if I will be better off trying to find a good rebuilder or someone who has a good pump available.
Click to expand...

Fishing68 said:
Thanks 4spdragtop! This is good stuff. The video you included of the rebuild procedure helps me out a ton. Think it would be pretty straightforward to do with a good rebuild kit. My apprehension about no having a press or specialty tools is gone after having seen it done.
Thanks a bunch!
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4spdragtop- My pulley shaft is dancing in and out like yours did in your video. Just confirming it is not normal for it to do that and that you remedied it by pressing the pulley further on the shaft? Also if so, is disassembly the only way to press the pulley on without potentially damaging the pump (housing, bearings,etc.)?
 
"Dancing" is not normal. That means that the wire-like circlip is out of place. You need to disassemble the pump to re-install. This happens when people try to press on the pulley w/o supporting the back of the shaft.
 
I would say that it is not normal. Remember that if you take it apart to mark the pulley location in relation location on shaft. As Murray said it could be the "circlip". Flip back thru the pics you will see what I mean.
Take a close look at back of pump before you press pulley on. You will want to support it properly.
Good luck, post what you find.

Fishing68 said:
4spdragtop- My pulley shaft is dancing in and out like yours did in your video. Just confirming it is not normal for it to do that and that you remedied it by pressing the pulley further on the shaft? Also if so, is disassembly the only way to press the pulley on without potentially damaging the pump (housing, bearings,etc.)?
Click to expand...
 
I am finally going to tackle this project. I am assuming I may need a rebuild kit or at least new seals. What kit of parts / source do you all recommend?
 
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