Trying to get rid of some things

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Jmcginnis89

Jmcginnis89

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What all can I get rid of or get away with getting rid of.
 

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Don't know a lot about /6 but was wanting to get rid of some of the vacuum crap didn't know where to start I'm taking the motor out next week to rebuild and bore Clifford intake and headers cam pistons just seeing what I can get off and still run
 
What is the point in the round vacuum can between the intake and valve cover
 
Jmcginnis89 said:
Don't know a lot about /6 but was wanting to get rid of some of the vacuum crap didn't know where to start I'm taking the motor out next week to rebuild and bore Clifford intake and headers cam pistons just seeing what I can get off and still run
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what cam and pistons?

if your really gonna build this motor your gonna scrap everything except the HVAC vac controls (if your keeping them).
 
Haven't decided on the pistons yet I think cam is going to be comp cam dur 264 lift 440 could use some one who knows a lot about slants to give me a good run down
 
It's a stock 74 225 in my duster has 3906.5 miles just want it to have a lot more than it has now street strip
 
Jmcginnis89 said:
Haven't decided on the pistons yet I think cam is going to be comp cam dur 264 lift 440 could use some one who knows a lot about slants to give me a good run down
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dont run a comp cam as it will eat your oil pump gear due to the nitride coating on the cam... on that note dont replace your current pump, specit out and replace the bypass spring.

OCG can re-grind your sock for for about 80 bucks to what ever specs you need.

lets start here.

what is the car for and how fast do you want to go? what are you willing to give up and what are you not? pump premium only 91 oct ok?
 
91 oct is fine I want fast and later was wanting to get a turbo after I get the main build done.
 
Street strip/ family car don't want to have to get rid of a lot just build the motor as good as poss it is one of the last things I have to do it runs good now just not enough for me my great gma bought in 74 and gave to me 20 years ago been on the garage since and has perfect intierior and body just need to over haul the motor to the max to make a good mopar hot rod to drive and take to track here and there.
 
Jmcginnis89 said:
Street strip/ family car don't want to have to get rid of a lot just build the motor as good as poss it is one of the last things I have to do it runs good now just not enough for me my great gma bought in 74 and gave to me 20 years ago been on the garage since and has perfect intierior and body just need to over haul the motor to the max to make a good mopar hot rod to drive and take to track here and there.
Click to expand...

ok i would go with a 9:1 compression which will let you run a good amount of boost later but better comp then what you have now. on the cam i would go with a low duration high lift on a wide LSA so something like 220-230 @ .050 with a 111-114 LSA, then as much lift as possible.

if your only gonna run a couple pounds of boost have the stock rods rebuilt with ARP bolts, then install stock cast flat tops back on it. summit sells them in .040, .060, and .080 over for less than 15 bucks a piece...

1.for the short block:
2.have it balanced
3.line hone the mains with ARP studs INSTALLED(make sure the studs dont block the oil passages)
4.Good timing set, i like the JP timing sets out of Aussie land (ebay) but roller masters are good and some guys like the cloyes
5.clean up and blend the oil passages, "port match" the hole in the block and head for the oil passage.
6. groove the camshaft about a 1/4" on either side of the hole on both sides for better top end oiling.
7. MILL only the block for compression! im learned this the hard way, milling the head other than a clean up moves the valves into the bore and shrouds the valves a bit.
8. install the bare head on the bare block and make sure the valves are centered in the bores, you may need offset pins, then scribe and open the chambers to that size (un shrouds the valves)

Top End
1. check your head and make sure its not a smog head (has port in rear for air injection) they have thin ports and weigh a ton!
2. what ever head you get have them install hardened exh seats
3. 1.7/1.44 ebay valves (enginebuilder)
4. slants love head work, 90% of your build depends on the head work, spend the money and it pays you back!
5. big block 1.5" diameter springs drop in and comp 744 retainers drop in as well
6. clean up mill only!
7. you are gonna need longer studs for the headers so have them remove them and mill the intake.exh surface (clean uo cut)
7. replace the stock adjuster for isky locking adjusters, will hold a lash forever

only other thing i can mention at this point is you may want to o ring the head/block for when you go to a turbo.

im sure i missed some stuff and others will chime in but thats just off the top of my head lol
 
Thanks a lot that is a great start to help me out all the knowledge is very much appreciated I have just never had a slant and don't know anything about them all the help is needed and helps me that much more thanks again
 
Jmcginnis89 said:
Thanks a lot that is a great start to help me out all the knowledge is very much appreciated I have just never had a slant and don't know anything about them all the help is needed and helps me that much more thanks again
Click to expand...

oh and ARP head studs...

on the pistons got them without rings and call total seal here in phoenix, they have them for those sizes.
 
805moparkid said:
ok i would go with a 9:1 compression which will let you run a good amount of boost later but better comp then what you have now. on the cam i would go with a low duration high lift on a wide LSA so something like 220-230 @ .050 with a 111-114 LSA, then as much lift as possible.

if your only gonna run a couple pounds of boost have the stock rods rebuilt with ARP bolts, then install stock cast flat tops back on it. summit sells them in .040, .060, and .080 over for less than 15 bucks a piece...

1.for the short block:
2.have it balanced
3.line hone the mains with ARP studs INSTALLED(make sure the studs dont block the oil passages)
4.Good timing set, i like the JP timing sets out of Aussie land (ebay) but roller masters are good and some guys like the cloyes
5.clean up and blend the oil passages, "port match" the hole in the block and head for the oil passage.
6. groove the camshaft about a 1/4" on either side of the hole on both sides for better top end oiling.
7. MILL only the block for compression! im learned this the hard way, milling the head other than a clean up moves the valves into the bore and shrouds the valves a bit.
8. install the bare head on the bare block and make sure the valves are centered in the bores, you may need offset pins, then scribe and open the chambers to that size (un shrouds the valves)

Top End
1. check your head and make sure its not a smog head (has port in rear for air injection) they have thin ports and weigh a ton!
2. what ever head you get have them install hardened exh seats
3. 1.7/1.44 ebay valves (enginebuilder)
4. slants love head work, 90% of your build depends on the head work, spend the money and it pays you back!
5. big block 1.5" diameter springs drop in and comp 744 retainers drop in as well
6. clean up mill only!
7. you are gonna need longer studs for the headers so have them remove them and mill the intake.exh surface (clean uo cut)
7. replace the stock adjuster for isky locking adjusters, will hold a lash forever

only other thing i can mention at this point is you may want to o ring the head/block for when you go to a turbo.

im sure i missed some stuff and others will chime in but thats just off the top of my head lol
Click to expand...

You hit the nail on the head. All really good advice. I wished I would have known on the head deal when it came to shaving. I cut mine but wished I would have done the block instead.

I have one of the JP timing chains and it's a really nice piece.

I learned that you go really fast in a /6 even with stock style pistons. Get the compression up and let' her rip!!!

I have to do everything on a budget but compared the piston prices anyway. If you compare the KB239's to the Wiseco's, the Wiseco pistons cost about $100 more compared to the 2.2 KB's. Buy six of the KB's and the expensive rings...then you are real close. To bad I can't swing either one right now lol.
 
DusterKrazy said:
You hit the nail on the head. All really good advice. I wished I would have known on the head deal when it came to shaving. I cut mine but wished I would have done the block instead.

I have one of the JP timing chains and it's a really nice piece.

I learned that you go really fast in a /6 even with stock style pistons. Get the compression up and let' her rip!!!

I have to do everything on a budget but compared the piston prices anyway. If you compare the KB239's to the Wiseco's, the Wiseco pistons cost about $100 more compared to the 2.2 KB's. Buy six of the KB's and the expensive rings...then you are real close. To bad I can't swing either one right now lol.
Click to expand...

the kb 2.2's are long rod motor only... for a low rpm,low boost/spray up to 150hp the stock cast pistons are hard to beat for 100 bucks!
 
How about some pics of the body? Will be following along as I am getting ready to build my 225 after we close the fireworks store July 9th.
 
oh and your gonna need to go thru your trans with like a true 2500 stall (edge) and 3.55 gear
 
I think he needs to deceide, turbo or non turbo, right away. and build acordingly. To build nonturbo, and have real good performance the compression ratio and cam will be totally wrong for a turbo. A non turbo street type motor doesn't need parts like "O" rings, head studs, main studs. ARP rod bolts maybe, but only if doing a recondition of the rods. I wouldn't build a turbo engine for less then 10 lbs boost, and upper 9 to one compression is on the high side for that. At 10 lbs boost a stock cast piston will work, high dollar parts like studs are not needed. The OP really needs to do some studying of turbos, and turbo slants.
I was running a stock 170 short block except for TRW forged stock replacement pistons, at 10 -12 lbs boost. I did wind up "O" ringing the block, but my problem was detonation. When I did mine there was no such thing as "boost timing master", AFR gauges, etc. It was hard to get the tune up correct. I would have been better off, not "O" ringing the block, and letting the head gasket act like a "fuse" and blow the gasket, instead of hurting pistons, when getting into detonation.
 
Still need the vinal top but its in real good shape just need to get the motor where I need it first
 
Are turbos that big of a hasel and do u think I can get a good amount of performance out of just a engine build or turbo?
 
805moparkid said:
the kb 2.2's are long rod motor only... for a low rpm,low boost/spray up to 150hp the stock cast pistons are hard to beat for 100 bucks!
Click to expand...

Right on!! Talked to a few guys running 11:1 + with them and no issues. I can't find the .080 ones anymore though....
 
That is y I wanted to build the engine to its max and later if I want more i could go turbo
 
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