TTI clearance issues

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Hyde440duster

Hyde440duster

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Hello eveybody I just recently puchased a set of TTI 2 inch headers that are AWESOME!!! And yesterday spent 6 hours trying to get them to fit, Come to find outthe motor mounts are about 2 inches too low to clear the center link. I have 2 options and was woundering everyones option on it. I can sell these and get a new set of fenderwell headers. or build a block under the mount so I can mount up these. The 1.5 inch block under the motor mount makes me a little nervous but what do you guys think ?? any other ways around it?Thanks in advance.
 
2" is a bunch.sure you have the correct center link?correct headers?what about the mounts themselfs?i dont know what you have,car,motor,anything.
 
Home built mounts have been a way off life for me. That was all you could do
before Schumacher's and such became available. Good penetrating welds are
key. No need to be nervous. A little weld goes along way. I wouldn't give up those
headers over the engine mounts. Take the mounts off. Block up the engine in place
with the headers installed and level side to side. Trans mount locating position front to rear.Check all clearances (dont forget to check steering lock to lock) and build mounts to fill the space left over. It will be better than what you can purchase off the shelf. Custom built to fit YOUR car. All of these cars are a little different due to production tolerances and miles of bouncing down the road. This method eliminates problems associated with the inconsistencies between cars.
If you don't weld or have the tools to cut the metal make them out of poster board and masking tape then have a fab guy make them off your patterns. 1/8" to 3/16" steel is a good choice depending on shape required to fit the space. I like to make the driver side solid and use a rubber isolator on the right. Poly transmission mounts are great. This method of mounts will have almost no engine shake that can cause rattles from the pipes banging in the tight spots.
The rubber on the passenger side will absorb enough vibration so the screws won't work out of the dash and you can still use your mirrors. I would shoot for 1/4" space in the tight clearance
areas if possible. Some times that is hard to get.
Keep the tti's they are the best thing going.
 
72 duster 440 manual steering. I think my issue is the fact the is no rubber in the motor Mount I made the factor 440 mount has about 1.5 inches of rubber on it. I'm going to try that next. The issue is not with Tti its how the engine mounts were made, Before i didn't have to worry about center link clearance because I had fender well headers.
 
I should mention this is the best way I have found to keep the clutch linkage stable on a 4-speed car and the fan out of the shroud. Both problems that can come about from to much movement in the mounts. I would also consider frame connectors a must with a big block in the a-bodies. All of these tricks combined has proven to be problem free for me and can take what ever punishment you can throw at it.
 
Okay no such luck with the rubber mounts. Its really close going to try to modify the rubber mounts just a little and hopefully it will give me the 1/8 inch I need.
 
If you are already not using rubber in your mounts why not just go to a motor plate and a mid plate.
Problem solved.
 
Post some pictures. 2" too low will get the oil pan real close to the centerlink. Did you modify the trans mount or is the trans in the original factory location?
 
Sry guys been busy, I was thinking of having a plate built like a "spacer". I've never hurd of a motor plate and mid plate? No the oil pan isn't too close to the center link or k frame. Just were the collectors come together they hang about and inch too low. I think I found motor mounts that will work but 1 side of the engine might end up 1 inch higher. Think that will be a huge problem?
 
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