TTI headers and power steering

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daves66valiant

daves66valiant

68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
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Will the TTI headers work with Power Steering? And will they work with the Keisler Hydraulic clutch setup? thx if anyone knows
 
http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/early abody tti/2493394-II-TTI636A.doc

Very complicated install. I will stick with duals off the stock manifolds,
my duals go out to 2 1/4" pipe about 10 inches from the manifolds.

Fits: 1963-1966 A-bodies equipped with standard transmission w/floor mounted shifter and auto transmission with floor mounted shifter.
Fits: 273 V-8 with a 10” flywheel & Chrysler mini starter. 318 / 340 / 360 / 408 A-engines with standard or automatic transmission must use the Powermaster adjustable starter part No. XXXX. The starters can be changed without removing the header.
Fits with Stock Heads and Edelbrock Aluminum Cylinder Heads
The 90 degree oil filter adapter must be used with the ¾” hex head mounting bolt or a MODIFIED 1 3/16” hex head bolt ( refer to photograph Sht-3 )
Clears Manual or Power Steering, Power Brakes and A/C
Installation of a complete TTI dual exhaust system will require a modified transmission crossmember ( Refer to photograph Sht.-2 ) and will require removal of the passenger side emergency brake cable guide bracket. ( Refer to photograph Sht-4 )
Relocation of the brake line distribution block and the brake lines may be required for adequate clearance from the header tubes. CHECK YOUR APPLICATION. ½” clearance must be maintained between the header tubes and the brake lines and or distribution block.
Clears the small block Mopar Milidon oil pan part no. MIL30935 & MIL30940
Clears stock steering linkage
Will not clear the quick-ratio extended length pitman arm and idler arm

ATTENTION: Make sure your engine is located to factory specs
TTI's headers were designed to fit with the engines located to the factory specifications. If the engine is not located correctly in the chassis, the headers will not fit properly. Use the following dimensions to check your engine location before installing your headers. From the center of the crankshaft to the top of the K-frame the correct distance is 4-3/4". The engine is also offset 5/8” towards the passenger-side. Measure from the center of the crankshaft to each frame rail. The difference should be 1-1/4". If necessary place shims between the insulator assembly and the K-frame mounting pad to achieve the proper dimensions. Shim kits and new engine mounts may be purchased from Schumacher Creative Services at 1-206-364-7151. With the engine mounted in the correct location the headers will fit properly.


1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle with an appropriate lifting device and place on jack stands.
3. Disconnect the plug wires and remove all of the spark plugs. Remove the cast iron manifolds and the stock exhaust pipes. If you are installing the complete TTI Exhaust System, then remove and discard your entire stock exhaust system, including hangers.
4. Remove the 90 degree oil filter adapter and the starter motor. Passenger-side, remove and discard the brace between the engine and the transmission.
5. Now is a good time to check the condition of your engine mounts. If they are worn or deteriorated, replace them now. When the engine is mounted correctly the headers will fit correctly.
6. Drivers-side Header: Use a pickle-fork to disconnect the ball joint on the tie rod at the center link and swing away. A. POWER STEERING ONLY. Disconnect the center link from the pittman arm and swing the center link away. Disconnect the steering wheel shaft from the steering box. ( REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR THE PROPER PROCEDURE ) Disconnect the power steering hoses and remove the power steering box. The steering wheel shaft shaft will pass thru the header when re-installed.
B.MANUAL STEERING ONLY. Disconnect the center link from the pittman arm and swing the center link away. Disconnect the steering wheel shaft from the steering box. ( REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR THE PROPER PROCEDURE ) The steering wheel shaft will pass thru the header when re-installed. 7. Remove the Torsion Bar. The torsion bar will pass thru the header when re-installed. ( REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR THE PROPER PROCEDURE ) 8. STANDARD TRANSMISSION ONLY. Remove the Z-bar. Now, refer to the photograph of the bellhousing Sht-1. The casting ear on the drivers side will need to be trimmed shorter by 3/8” for header clearance. Remove the nut from the lower side of the engine mount rubber insulator. Using a floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan, raise the engine up on the drivers side approximately 1”.Check the cylinder head sealing surface of the exhaust ports to insure that they are clean. Place the supplied header gasket into position on the studs. Insert the header into position from under the car and let it hang loose by one header bolt. Before bolting to the cylinder head, place the steering box into place and attach with the three bolts. Lower the engine and place the header into position on the cylinder head. Use the original studs and nuts or the provided headers bolts to secure the header to the cylinder head. Tighten the center bolts first then the end ports. Torque the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. evenly to insure a proper seal.
9. In reverse order re-install all of the disassembled components. Be extremely careful to re-install all nuts, bolts and pins that were removed. Install motor mount nut. NOTE: If you are using a stock 10” flywheel, a Chrysler mini starter can be used. All other applications 318 / 340 / 360 / 408 crate engines with 904 / 727 or standard transmissions will require the POWERMASTER # XXXX ADJUSTABLE STARTER MOTOR.
§ Install the starter and connect the wiring. Adjust the wiring to insure that there is absolutely no contact with the header. Due to variations in the routing of brake lines, it may be necessary to re-position a brake line to achieve adequate clearance from a header tube. A minimum clearance of ½” from a header tube is required.
10. Passenger-side Header: Using a pickle fork, disconnect the tie rod at the centerlink and swing away. Remove the torsion bar. ( REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR THE PROPER PROCEDURE ) The torsion bar will pass thru the header when re-installed.
11. Check the sealing surface of the exhaust ports to insure they are clean. Place the supplied header gasket into position on the studs. Insert the header into position from under the car and let it hang loose on the studs. Place the 90 degree oil filter adapter into place and attach with the ¾” hex head bolt or the modified 1 3/16” hex head bolt. Use the original studs and nuts or the provided header bolts to secure the header to the cylinder head. Check for clearance between the header tubes and the 90 degree filter adapter hex head bolt. Tighten the center ports header bolts first then the end ports. Torque the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. evenly to insure a proper seal. Install the oil filter.
12. Attach the adapter / reducers to the header collectors with the nuts, bolts and gaskets provided. The adapter / reducers supplied will only fit the 63 thru 66 A-body with the modified transmission crossmember.
13. In reverse order re-install all of the disassembled components. Be extremely careful to re-install all nuts, bolts and pins that were removed 14. Now that your headers are installed, wipe down the tubes with hot soapy water or an environmentally safe Orange Cleaner Degreaser and a soft cloth to remove any grease or skin oils (finger prints) from the header tube surface. Never use abrasive cleaners.
§ To insure years of service from your ceramic-coated headers, it is suggested to follow our care and maintenance procedures. (Sheet #SHT0603)

15. Re-connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Re-torque all of the header bolts after approximately 50 miles of driving

To complete the rest of your exhaust system installation, we highly recommend the use of our TTI Performance Exhaust Systems. The 2-1/2” or 3” O.D. kits will bolt directly to the TTI Headers. Our exhaust systems come complete with all hardware and all new hanger assemblies. They are manufactured with aluminized tubing and are mandrel bent by the latest technology CNC tube benders insuring precision fit on every installation.



Headers supplied with: Reducer kit Includes (12) 5/16” 18x1” Header Bolts ( 2 ) 3" - 3-bolt 1/16” Reducer Gaskets ( 2 ) Header Gaskets (taped to inside of box) ( 6 ) 3/8” – 16 x 1 ¼” Reducer Bolts
( 2 ) Reducers ( 6 ) 3/8” Split lock washers
( 6 ) 3/8” – 16 Nuts

Illustration / Instruction sheets attached: # SHT0603 - # SHT-1, # SHT-2 , # SHT-3 , # SHT-4



Tube Technologies, Inc.
1555 Consumer Circle
Corona, CA 92880-1726
Ph. (951) 371-4878 Fax (951) 371-6143
E-mail: [email protected]
Click to expand...
 
nice. I was going to stick with the early 273 manifolds on my 340 but now I'm thinking of starting with the TTIs. It shouldn't be too bad for me since I am swapping in a new 340. The old manifolds would choke some hp out of the 340 I built. Will likely go with the 3" full setup. Guess all i Need now is a new starter and 90 degree oil filter. Oh yeah and lots of patience getting these things to fit in there witht the least amount of headache :banghead:

Thanks
 
Just thought of a possible new problem for me with the TTI setup. I will be putting in a 5sp Keisler setup with the Lakewood bellhousing. Just wondering if the bellhousing will be a problem with these headers?
 
daves66valiant said:
Just thought of a possible new problem for me with the TTI setup. I will be putting in a 5sp Keisler setup with the Lakewood bellhousing. Just wondering if the bellhousing will be a problem with these headers?
Click to expand...


Call TTI yet?
Tube Technologies, Inc.
1555 Consumer Circle
Corona, CA 92880-1726 USA

Phone Hours: Monday - Friday 8: 00am - 4:00pm PST
Phone (951)371-4878 Fax (951)371-6143

Or; buy some, for $750 +
and try them.

What rear gears do you have?

if 2.93 like my Valiant, a 5 speed with overdrive is undergeared.

The overdrive setup is usually used with 3:55 gears or taller.

Think I have no clue? LOL. I am not always 100% correct,
but am not 99% wrong.

http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehicles/116_0507_1968_plymouth_barracuda_formula/index1.html

Transmission: The original iron four-speed was put on the shelf in favor of a Tremec TKO five-speed manual with overdrive (0.68:1) modified by Keisler Engineering to work with the Chrysler engine. Keisler also provided the offset shifter, driveshaft, and transmission crossmember to make the swap more feasible.

Rearend: The original 8 3/4-inch Chrysler axlehousing remains, along with its Sure-Grip differential, now spinning 3.91:1 gears


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0411_trem/index.html

Suddenly, a set of 3.73s seems like standard fare, and depending on the gearbox selected, even 4.10s can be acceptable for comfortable cross-country cruising.
Click to expand...

My 2 cents worth anyway.
 
I have open 489 case with 3.23s but plan a Sure-Grip or similiar unit to install for sure. The Keisler boys said it should work out great with the engine specs I gave them. Yeah the 2.93s would seem to be underrated
 
thinking 3.73s might actually be better
 
watch out with the TTI headders for an early a-body... i hear they have starter fitment problems.... i heard that even a mopar mini starter doesn't fit. you need to use an even smaller starter and thats a few hundred bucks... i also heard that people are having problems with the real little starter too... so you better ask alot of questions when you talk to TTI. and i would goto many mopar web sites and ask alot of questions about them before you spend $900. or maybe even go with dougs headders. i've seen them on a few cars and they fit very nice.... and if this thread is true http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=11877 maybe go with spit fires.. they actually work very well and are alot cheaper then the other two.... just make sure you get them C.O.D.....
 
I installed TTI's on my Duster and had to go with the smaller starter to get sufficient clearence. Just remember what can go wrong will likely go wrong.
 
shg340 said:
I installed TTI's on my Duster and had to go with the smaller starter to get sufficient clearence. Just remember what can go wrong will likely go wrong.
Click to expand...


yea but thats a duster.. the mini mopar starter worked fine with tti's in my 71 dart too. but the early A-bodies are a whole different ball game...
 
[QUOTE... but the early A-bodies are a whole different ball game...[/QUOTE]

No doubt!

Lee
 
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