TTI headers - anyone got them installed?

[daves66valiant]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=13911

check this link. I took some picture that may help you some. No z-bar installed yet on this car. It was a factory 4-speed car. Looks like you want to keep the lines high and tight to the master cylinder. You'll need some Dynamat for the inside of the car for sure. You'll want sleeves for #5 and #7 plug wires too. That driver's side tube is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch away from the firewall. You can see it pretty well in some of the pics.

 

[lilcuda]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=13911

check this link. I took some picture that may help you some. No z-bar installed yet on this car. It was a factory 4-speed car. Looks like you want to keep the lines high and tight to the master cylinder. You'll need some Dynamat for the inside of the car for sure. You'll want sleeves for #5 and #7 plug wires too. That driver's side tube is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch away from the firewall. You can see it pretty well in some of the pics.

Thanks, Dave! I was looking for those photos. I couldn't remember if they were here or on BBD. I was bummed that this car wasn't at Spring Fling this year. I wanted to check it out.

 

[daves66valiant]

Thanks, Dave! I was looking for those photos. I couldn't remember if they were here or on BBD. I was bummed that this car wasn't at Spring Fling this year. I wanted to check it out.

Thanks, Dave! I was looking for those photos. I couldn't remember if they were here or on BBD. I was bummed that this car wasn't at Spring Fling this year. I wanted to check it out.

No problem. I bet the car is almost finished by now. It was a nice car.

I've seen a couple of people that have mounted the distribution block on the inner fender. Something like the GM mount could work too off of the master cylinder like billyjay's. I'm using the original distribution block which is smaller. Then running the front bowl of the Master cylinder separately to the ADJ prop valve on the chassis for the rear brakes. Should keep things out of the way and it's a smaller piece. Mopar Action did an article a few years back on this setup for swapping to disc brakes without using the later style distribution blocks. I don't know if there is a residual pressure relief valve on the SSBC master cylinder. I may add one if really necessary.

 

[lilcuda]

i went with a inner fender mounted, adjustable prop valve from summit, and ran the dual master feed lines almost straight across to feed the brake system, and got real sneaky running all the brake lines to keep them as far as possible from the header tubes.

Is it possible for you to take some photos of how you mounted your prop valve & how your brake lines are routed? I'm just putting my car back together after touching up the paint around the master cylinder. I had a brake fluid leak. I'm also converting to a dual m/cyl. I'd like to see how you did yours to keep them out of the way of the headers. I'd hate to have to redo my brake lines when I get headers.

Thanks!

 

[dart4forte]

Ok guys, some quite a bit of work last weekend on the Dart to prep for engine install. I'll start with the engine mockup which I did several months ago. With the TTI headers you will need the clocking starter. I got mine from Jeg swhich saved me a few bucks. If using the 340 bell housing you will need to trim off the casting extension on the driverside of the BH. It's in the instructions. I also found that the bolts you get with the headers are both too long and are hard to start. I'm going with ARP header bolts. Don't forget, the trans crossmember has to be notched if you want your exhaust to run tight up and not hang down. On the brakes, I'm running kelsey Hays 4 disk calipers. The stock location for the prop valve will not work, too close to the headers. Because I am running a 4 speed NHRA says you have to re-route your brake lines away from the bellhousing. What I did is order a Prop valve for the 68-70 A body and ordered ca bracket from Right Stuff Inc. (part number PVB 71). The bracket mounts beside the M/C. I then ran my front brake line toward the front of the K member and along the passenger side to connect to the passenger side caliper. As soon as I get the lines back from having them flared I'll install them and take a picture. One thing is for sure running headers on an early A body ranks up there with V8 Vega and early Mustang big black header install.



I forgot to add that I got the prop valve from Right Stuff Inc., part # PV71. This is the common valve used with Kelsey hays brakes.

 

[jahsh]

Ok guys, some quite a bit of work last weekend on the Dart to prep for engine install. I'll start with the engine mockup which I did several months ago. With the TTI headers you will need the clocking starter. I got mine from Jeg swhich saved me a few bucks. If using the 340 bell housing you will need to trim off the casting extension on the driverside of the BH. It's in the instructions. I also found that the bolts you get with the headers are both too long and are hard to start. I'm going with ARP header bolts. Don't forget, the trans crossmember has to be notched if you want your exhaust to run tight up and not hang down. On the brakes, I'm running kelsey Hays 4 disk calipers. The stock location for the prop valve will not work, too close to the headers. Because I am running a 4 speed NHRA says you have to re-route your brake lines away from the bellhousing. What I did is order a Prop valve for the 68-70 A body and ordered ca bracket from Right Stuff Inc. (part number PVB 71). The bracket mounts beside the M/C. I then ran my front brake line toward the front of the K member and along the passenger side to connect to the passenger side caliper. As soon as I get the lines back from having them flared I'll install them and take a picture. One thing is for sure running headers on an early A body ranks up there with V8 Vega and early Mustang big black header install.



I forgot to add that I got the prop valve from Right Stuff Inc., part # PV71. This is the common valve used with Kelsey hays brakes.

Did you mock everything up including your z-bar and clutch fork?

 

[daves66valiant]

I read the instructions from TTI "1963-1966 A-bodies equipped with Standard Transmission with floor mounted shifter and Auto Transmission with floor mounted shifter." and totally forgot that my car was a column shift with power steering. The power steering is no issue at all, but the pot coupler gets in the way. :tongue2: Damn it. Another thing to buy. I guess Flaming River will be getting a new order soon. Oh well, I had sorta planned on getting one anyways just because they are so nice and makes things easy. Screw rebuilding the pot coupler now. That seemed more of a PITA than picking up the phone and laying down the debit card.

Abodyjoe....I know this will get your juices going about the early a-body tti's. HAHA

I'll sell my coupler rebuild kit for $10.

Coupler hit tubes

 

[socal_65dartgt]

Uh Oh...I am about 4 weeks away from mocking up may 340 swap into a 65 Dart. As soon as I saw this post, I ran out an looked at my car and the orientation of the coupler seems to be the same as yours on my current power steering.

I just got off the phone with TTi (Mike) and asked about this. He said that they have since corrected that clearance problem. I bought my headers a month ago and he said that I should be fine. I'll let everyone know how it goes on my swap.

daves66valiant, I'm sorry to hear that you have to shift gears to solve another problem. It seams like every time I think something is going to be a direct fit, I have to modify it or fabricate something altogether different. Ah, the fun of early A-bodies....

 

[daves66valiant]

It might still work. The engine is probably not level and inthe recommended position yet. I'll update later once the engine is in the car.

 

[kenabody]

I'm wondering if anyone has TTI headers and has them installed. If so, it would be cool to see photos of the headers & the exhaust. Plus if there are any problems with them, it would be nice to have that info. There was so much buzz about these and now it seems to have died down. I'm still on the fence.

I have the TTI's installed in my 360-395 '65 Dart w/Keisler 5-speed. Any header you install in these cars will require lots of work. This is best done on a lift with a helper. However, they do fit just as TTI promises with NO modifications to frame/chassis. You can get their install instructions by writing them. They will ACCURATELY describe the install procedure. TTI's are expensive but of the highest quality and workmanship. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
Ken A.

 

[daves66valiant]

Ken,
You got pictures you can post on here. I have the exact same setup going into my 66 vert. I'd like to pick you brain about a few things with the Keisler. Did you get the hydraulic setup?