TTI Now What

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My TTIs laid against the torsion bars and steering linkage at first. Then I measure the engine placement and saw it was way off. Had to shim the motor mounts and enlarge the motor mount bolt hole on one side of the k-frame to get the engine to slide back some. When all was done the headers cleared everything and no dents were needed. I run the schumaker torque strap and that keeps the engine from moving. I do have to go back and re-route the rear brake line coming off the distribution block because its like 1/8" away from the header. But overall very pleased with the fitment.

The problem with these mopars is that the factory was very sloppy when building the k-frames. Some k-frames are fine and other like mine are way off which causes severe header fitment issues. Headers never fit my car and I never knew why until my recent TTI install.
 
Just put a complete set on the 72 Val (TTI headers and 3" system). Had no problems at all. Had to make my own starter cable. The only problem I can see down the road will be as the flat mounts start to go, it might hit. also found that the motor will move side to side and not be twisted in the car. spool mounts will not move like this. make sure the block is 90deg to the frame and the offset is right.
 
After doing 7 TTi installs both A&B, small and big block, every one needed new mounts and 1 needed shims. The poly loc mounts sure help. The car that I thought was going to be the hardest was a 472 Hemi in a 64 Savoy....They fell right on, so easy that I really thought I did something wrong.
 
StrokerScamp said:
For the money TTI's cost, they should fit slam perfect with no ghetto riggin shims and they oughtta send along a hottie "personal satisfaction technician" to give you a happy ending. Anything less is complete bullshit.
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mine fit with no added hassels,but i have spool mounts....they still cost too much
 
67gtx said:
............. these are 40 plus year old cars so some clearences may have changed...............
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So the dimensions of the block and starter have changed????

I mean, I could see them hitting something on the chassis--motor mount sag,....etc, but starter clearance? ridiculous
 
StrokerScamp said:
For the money TTI's cost, they should fit slam perfect with no ghetto riggin shims and they oughtta send along a hottie "personal satisfaction technician" to give you a happy ending. Anything less is complete bullshit.
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step back take a breath of fresh air. you may have to realise these cars where no perfect masterpieces of blueprinting in the first place and you may understand what happens when these econobox cars have been beat on for 40years? no? if thats not clear you may want to change your caraddiction for something else..

quality costs money and these things are a damn piece of art compared to the summit 99$ specials.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
i made some shims for mine, one tube also touches the starter. way better still than the low hanging cheepo headers, plus mine look new after 10 years and about 10k miles.
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10 years and only 10 thousand miles? thats only a 1000 miles a year. get out and drive that *****.
 
StrokerScamp said:
For the money TTI's cost, they should fit slam perfect with no ghetto riggin shims and they oughtta send along a hottie "personal satisfaction technician" to give you a happy ending. Anything less is complete bullshit.
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they will fit slam perfect if your motor is in the proper location. :)
 
abodyjoe said:
10 years and only 10 thousand miles? thats only a 1000 miles a year. get out and drive that *****.
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:toothy10: I have had mine 8 years, and driven less than two thousand miles.

I would rather work on it, and I am in the process of building it's 4th motor now. :toothy10: Two 340s, a 318 and now a 360, maybe.

Oh and my TTIs fit great, but I am getting ready to put power steering on it, so we will see.
 
abodyjoe said:
they will fit slam perfect if your motor is in the proper location. :)
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That is one of the problems with these cars is mopar was super sloppy on their k-frame tolerances. They could afford to be when running stock manifolds. When you go to put headers in no the engine has to be sitting exactly as TTI specifies.
 
had to shim mine.

Have new motor mounts but stock style. Was told that truck mounts are basicly the same but a little thicker

Think I will get the poly locs when I make some changes in the future
 
340sFastback said:
That is one of the problems with these cars is mopar was super sloppy on their k-frame tolerances. They could afford to be when running stock manifolds. When you go to put headers in no the engine has to be sitting exactly as TTI specifies.
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wasn't just the k-frame they were sloppy with... mopar and quality sure doesn't belong in the same sentence... :)
 
Yeah not only did I have to shim mine I had to grind out the slot in the driver's side k-frame where the motor mount stud goes through in order to push the engine back. Had to do that to get idler and pitman arm clearance. Headers clear everything nicely no dents.
 
I have TTI's in a Duster with no interference problems, but the insulation on the smaller starter wires is melted. so you might want to check yours.

I have P. S. , a locking Schumacher left M.M., and a torque strap made from chain. Everything is as tight as can be, no room, but what can you do.

Don't ever buy the nickel plated hedder, hotter than hell. Caused problems with a P.S. leak, starter wires and M.C. boil over. Had to have them ceramic coated by someone else, but I think that was a plus, from what I've heard about TTI's coating.

Remember to go by TTI's specs. and that the engine in not centered, it's offset.
 
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