ZDECKICH
Member
any video of how it sounds? Looks great!
TTI Small Block Shorty Header Install
- Thread starter Darter6
- Start date
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simman900
Active Member
Very nice job! I just finished installing a set of long TTI headers in a 72 Dart. Absolutely by far the worst pain in the @#$&* to install. Basically had to pull the engine out and angle it towards the drivers side then the pax side to install. It was horrible. Anyways they are installed now.... Had to make sure engine sat at factory height as well. I didn’t have to remove any tie rods or steering idler arms like the were taking about in the instructions. So it’s kinda figure it out on your own. I will just buy cheap headers for my car projects from now on.
Shig
Member
Looking for experience with TTI tailpipes
I plan on doing same on 1970 Dart Swinger 340,
I want to utilize Factory Tips....are the tailpipes lined up for these tips?
Can I just cut the ends of the tailpipes off and slide in the Tips?
Factory location...using existing frame holes for hangers?
Any help or pics would be great
not sure about alignment, but the 2 1/2" tti pipe is going to need an adapter for a stock tip
^^^^ Yes most factory tips are for 2 1/4'' pipes but you can buy for 2 1/2''.
Yes the TTI tail pipes hangers go in the same place as factory. Trim the turn down after testing how much needs to be cut off.
I always call and tell them exactly what my plans are that way there is no guessing on either side of the phone.Good people to work with.
Yes the TTI tail pipes hangers go in the same place as factory. Trim the turn down after testing how much needs to be cut off.
I always call and tell them exactly what my plans are that way there is no guessing on either side of the phone.Good people to work with.
Did the new torque shaft assembly come in the kit? or is it required on 71 Duster ?
scott mattingly
Well-Known Member
Gents,
To add to this discussion, I just installed my rebuilt stroker 360 in my 1974 Duster(auto, floor shift, manual steering) today along with a a set TTI shorties. The overall quality, instructions and ease of install was pretty straight forward with minimal, "fuss." But when we had them installed, I was thinking the the driver's side header was maybe for a different model car(maybe with manual trans or power steering etc..) since the outlet terminates about 1-1/2 to 2" just above the space btwn the torsion bar and the frame rail. (I tried to called Mancini where I bought them to verify, but they had closed.) But now,...after reviewing this string and pics, it appears this is the correct configuration and the down-pipe on that side simply has to make an EXTREMEly tight 90-deg bend to pass on the inside of the torsion bar. (As "abodyjoe" commented earlier in his June19,2018 post, the bend looks pretty tight/extreme....) I agree.
Seems to me it would have made a LOT more sense to terminate that header at the gap between the starter and the torsion rod. That way, the down-pipe could proceed nearly straight downward with a gentle ~70-75-deg bend heading rearward. Any ideas why TTi chose to make that bend so tight? There is plenty of room on that side of engine bay to angle it away from the torsion bar completely, and still the clear the starter by a few inches. JUST wondering?
I did NOT buy the full exhaust system from TTI but I expect the local exhaust shop with be able to make a down-pipe that will work.
-Scott
To add to this discussion, I just installed my rebuilt stroker 360 in my 1974 Duster(auto, floor shift, manual steering) today along with a a set TTI shorties. The overall quality, instructions and ease of install was pretty straight forward with minimal, "fuss." But when we had them installed, I was thinking the the driver's side header was maybe for a different model car(maybe with manual trans or power steering etc..) since the outlet terminates about 1-1/2 to 2" just above the space btwn the torsion bar and the frame rail. (I tried to called Mancini where I bought them to verify, but they had closed.) But now,...after reviewing this string and pics, it appears this is the correct configuration and the down-pipe on that side simply has to make an EXTREMEly tight 90-deg bend to pass on the inside of the torsion bar. (As "abodyjoe" commented earlier in his June19,2018 post, the bend looks pretty tight/extreme....) I agree.
Seems to me it would have made a LOT more sense to terminate that header at the gap between the starter and the torsion rod. That way, the down-pipe could proceed nearly straight downward with a gentle ~70-75-deg bend heading rearward. Any ideas why TTi chose to make that bend so tight? There is plenty of room on that side of engine bay to angle it away from the torsion bar completely, and still the clear the starter by a few inches. JUST wondering?
I did NOT buy the full exhaust system from TTI but I expect the local exhaust shop with be able to make a down-pipe that will work.
-Scott
Ogre Backwash
Well-Known Member
Is there any data about performance improvement? Airflow? Top speed? Dyno testing?
Sorry Ogre, I have no data. Was there a improvement ? Yes. Being that it was a stock 273 with just a 4 bbl added.
To me, and this is just my opinion, Shorty's are sold for the ease of installation not for major performance gains.
In my case a bit better than cast 2 bbl manifolds.
It has been proven that long tubes perform better.For sure if the engine is large cube, high horsepower.
To me, and this is just my opinion, Shorty's are sold for the ease of installation not for major performance gains.
In my case a bit better than cast 2 bbl manifolds.
It has been proven that long tubes perform better.For sure if the engine is large cube, high horsepower.
Ogre Backwash
Well-Known Member
It's a nice looking installation and I wanted to know if these fit early a-bodies like my 65 Barracuda. Your 273 was a 2 barrel 8.5:1 compression ratio version at about 185 HP stock? You added the 340 cam, 4 barrel and the headers and you estimate about 220 HP now. Pretty good. No increase in compression or stiffer valve springs or head porting? What cfm is the carb and did you upgrade the ignition?
Ogre Backwash
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Great exhaust note and it sounds like an easy to live with combination for everyday street use.
to add to Darter6's remarks, the only difficult thing with these are the collector bolts. because they're higher up, next to the T-bars, it can be "fun" getting the bolts in and tight
Ogre Backwash
Well-Known Member
Roger that.
Darter6.
First, I just installed my TTi shorty headers and dual system on my '67 dart. I will note that the engine to tranny braces fit on both sides, no problem.
Second, regarding your switching from 1 wire neutral safety switch (NSS) to a 3-wire unit, assuming my column reverse light switch is working, I have a 3-wire switch and pigtail and my new A904 has the comb for the 3-wire NSS - what steps do I need to take to convert my wiring for the 3-wire NSS?
brian
First, I just installed my TTi shorty headers and dual system on my '67 dart. I will note that the engine to tranny braces fit on both sides, no problem.
Second, regarding your switching from 1 wire neutral safety switch (NSS) to a 3-wire unit, assuming my column reverse light switch is working, I have a 3-wire switch and pigtail and my new A904 has the comb for the 3-wire NSS - what steps do I need to take to convert my wiring for the 3-wire NSS?
brian
As you said if the column reverse lights are working you only need to hook the center wire of the 3 wire plug for the NSS.
The other 2 wires are for reverse and can be hooked up to the wires at the column. If I remember my switch activation tab was broke off on the 68 Valiant.I ran wires to the transmission switch.
The other 2 wires are for reverse and can be hooked up to the wires at the column. If I remember my switch activation tab was broke off on the 68 Valiant.I ran wires to the transmission switch.
Ah, cool, if that is the case that I need the three prong switch, I'll just use the middle prong. great thanks.
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