TTi step vs. 340 manifolds

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I would have installed 340 manifolds on the Dart for simplicity and what I do with the car (street rod, absolute numbers/time don't matter to me) but the when I saw the price of the manifolds I went with the TTI Shortys. Very happy with them, although I did cut and re-clock the right side extension tube to get it tighter on the floorboard.
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340sFastback said:
And if you swap to headers and you have stock exhaust tips if they are anything like what was on my '69 they choke like 1 1/2" inner diameter which is not going to flow what so ever.
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I take a chopsaw, and buck the tapered inlet off at a size that fits over my tailpipe, and weld a suitably sized new inlet onto the "tip" .
 
inertia said:
I take a chopsaw, and buck the tapered inlet off at a size that fits over my tailpipe, and weld a suitably sized new inlet onto the "tip" .
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That’s probably what I’ll do to the tips I have now. I think they are 2-1/4”.
 
LO23M8B said:
Is the motor still stock low compression?
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As far as I know. I have a set of small valve 915’s that I want to have worked over to go on it (milling, 2.02 valve, racing valve job, port work). Currently has a Z and an O head on it.
Currently has a stock 340 iron intake with the divider cut down and knife edged. Planning on putting the LD340 on it when the 915’s go on.
Right now it is a single leg 8.25 with 2.71 ratio. I will put a Sure Grip in it with 3.21 or 3.55’s. I do plan on driving it on the Interstate for a couple hours at a time so leaning toward 3.21.
The cam is a single pattern 224 @ .050.
 
When the heads are in the shop have them mill them as much as possible if you still have the stock 73 pistons. Have them mill the intake side also. This alone will be your biggest bang for the buck. Also seeing you may have the small manifolds if you have the $$ for the headers I go for them. But again milling the heads will make it feel like a different motor all by it self.
 
LO23M8B said:
When the heads are in the shop have them mill them as much as possible if you still have the stock 73 pistons. Have them mill the intake side also. This alone will be your biggest bang for the buck. Also seeing you may have the small manifolds if you have the $$ for the headers I go for them. But again milling the heads will make it feel like a different motor all by it self.
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God thing is, aside from rearend components, I have all the pieces to go for it. I have the 915’s, the LD340, and the TTi step headers.
The headers were for another project but that engine really needs a 1-7/8 race header so I’m just going to put them on Arthur’s Duster.
 
So I don’t have to start another thread:

What’s wrong with glass packs? When I was a kid it was what eelveryone wanted/had. Then came Flowmaster. I tried those and found I would rather have the glass pack sound. Are they too open?
I love the sound. Being that this car will be my Day 2 car I think they would be more appropriate than a muffler that wasn’t around back in early-mid 70’s.
I just don’t see anyone building exhaust with them anymore.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Glass packs are cheap and what a 16 year old would put on their car, kind of like air shocks...
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I know. They’re so cool!

Honestly, is it the sound? I love it. Much better than a drone of a Flowmaster. It’s period correct more than any other choice out there right now.
 
go-fish said:
God thing is, aside from rearend components, I have all the pieces to go for it. I have the 915’s, the LD340, and the TTi step headers.
The headers were for another project but that engine really needs a 1-7/8 race header so I’m just going to put them on Arthur’s Duster.
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By all means if you got them use em. I would.
 
for a street car through exhaust and mufflers make life easy on yourself and stick with manifolds.
If you are racing with open exhaust that would be different.
 
go-fish said:
I know. They’re so cool!

Honestly, is it the sound? I love it. Much better than a drone of a Flowmaster. It’s period correct more than any other choice out there right now.
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Id say the best glass packs as far as sound were on my 78 K5 Chevy Blazer. it was real duals all the way out the back. and it really wasnt that loud. more of a low rumble. I dont know why but maybe it had to do with the pipe diameter which wasnt more than 2 inches if I recall. It was many years ago i got rid of that thing in 96...
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Id say the best glass packs as far as sound were on my 78 K5 Chevy Blazer. it was real duals all the way out the back. and it really wasnt that loud. more of a low rumble. I dont know why but maybe it had to do with the pipe diameter which wasnt more than 2 inches if I recall. It was many years ago i got rid of that thing in 96...
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I had a 74 Challenger with them. 2.5” with manifolds and no h or x pipe. The loudest it got was when I was pulling a hill. On the freeway she purred and at idle it sounded mean even though it had an “RV” cam and a 2 bbl.
Later I had a 73 Duster with a 318 2 bbl. I put glass packs on it. Same result. Then I had Flowmaster put on it. Did not like them one bit due to the bass and drone.
When it comes down to it I want the glass packs because the whole goal of completing this build is to do it with Day 2 mods. If I was around in 73 and bought this 340/ 4-speed car what would have been available to me if I wanted to hop it up? Machine the heads, put some headers on it, order an LD340 from DC, and install a differential. What mufflers were available then that are still available now?
Now if I could only find a period correct Cobra CB and some N50’s….
 
man I cant really answer that I remember thrush hush and thrush turbos but they aren't like glass packs...I have installed accurate "factory" style exhaust and mufflers on my 340 swinger and I like the way it sounds, its different than my Fox body mustang for sure. Im noit saying go wo9ith accurate but I like the sound of them . i think because Im hell bent on my car being as close to original as can be i just like it. i did have 2.5 inch with headers and walker dynomax and that sounded like a drag strip on the highway opened up. Point is pipe diameter has something to do with the sound I think,...
 
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Don't believe people telling you 30-45 HP all across the curve, simply not true. With 8:1 low comp pistons and that can, you just lowered your static camp is probably 7.5:1 if you are lucky. Real world numbers on a Dyno would shock me if you got more than 15 HP and that would only be above 4000. Below that rpm I would expect 8-10 max. Unless you like spending your weekends swapping gaskets, I would stick with manifolds.
 
magnummopar said:
Unless you like spending your weekends swapping gaskets, I would stick with manifolds.
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Once I started using the Percy's Seal 4 Good layered aluminum gaskets, I've never had another gasket problem with my headers and I have the cheap low hanging ones with not such thick flanges.
 
nckennyb said:
Once I started using the Percy's Seal 4 Good layered aluminum gaskets, I've never had another gasket problem with my headers and I have the cheap low hanging ones with not such thick flanges.
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I will have to try them as I have tried every gasket under the sun in last 30 years.
 
magnummopar said:
Don't believe people telling you 30-45 HP all across the curve, simply not true. With 8:1 low comp pistons and that can, you just lowered your static camp is probably 7.5:1 if you are lucky. Real world numbers on a Dyno would shock me if you got more than 15 HP and that would only be above 4000. Below that rpm I would expect 8-10 max. Unless you like spending your weekends swapping gaskets, I would stick with manifolds.
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That was for the swap of both intake & headers, & I agree w/ RRR.
 
I GOT THE COMPLETE EXHAUST FROM TTI they sound good no drone on the highway between headers and the 1970 manifolds maybe 25 hp at the upper end on a stock build get better heads and intake the hp dif will increase
 
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