tubular lower control arms for coilovers

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Thanks! Been a bit of a hiatus due to my welder taking a crap and now i have a few side jobs rolling through. Hoping to get back at this soon.
 
RogerK said:
If you get the kinks worked out do you think you would start selling them? :happy1:
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I would like to, that was my original intent anyways, but.....with the liability at hand I'm not sure. I'm not a business or anything, just a fabricator in my own garage that decided to build what wasn't out there already. I would either need to find an honest person to do some real world testing for me or wait until my car is complete and do my own testing. I'm getting closer on my car but I'm not sure when it will be street worthy. I don't have any doubts about the integrity of these but i would hate to sell a bunch to guys when they are not proven reliable. It might be another year before my car hits the street or track.
 
Made a support bracket that supports the pivot bolt. Really just about done, just need to weld up the other strut bar and weld the other bracket on the other side. The brackets and components are all made from 3/16".



 
junior636 said:
Made a support bracket that supports the pivot bolt. Really just about done, just need to weld up the other strut bar and weld the other bracket on the other side. The brackets and components are all made from 3/16".



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looks really good
 
mopwr2004a said:
looks really good
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HDK, and JUNIOR, throw in on this. In my case, ( magnum force front end) I think there would have to be some pressure (pull) on the strut rod, but not so as to pull hard to the point of trying to pull the lower control arm forward during comp. and rebound, especially w/ heim type joints. thinking about assasin type bars for the struts, but not sure about how they are built inside where they slide. ?????????? bob
 
IMO there is pull and push on the strut rod simply because of suspension travel and the arc the strut rod has to travel. That is why I favor the rubber factory front bushings on a street car.

Currently at the laser cutter is a (bolt in version) similar rear brace for the LCA that will be offered along with the upper shock mount and chromoly support hoops.

Junior is doing a great job showing where there is a will....there is a way. And, with a little thought, hot-rodders with the right skills can build it themselves.

Mopar to ya' Junior
 
HemiDenny said:
IMO there is pull and push on the strut rod simply because of suspension travel and the arc the strut rod has to travel. That is why I favor the rubber factory front bushings on a street car.

Currently at the laser cutter is a (bolt in version) similar rear brace for the LCA that will be offered along with the upper shock mount and chromoly support hoops.

Junior is doing a great job showing where there is a will....there is a way. And, with a little thought, hot-rodders with the right skills can build it themselves.

Mopar to ya' Junior
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I understand what your saying about the strut rod but i have not seen that in my case. With no shock in the car and the strut rod in place i can go from the bottom all the way up until the upper arm is almost hitting the car and it is completely smooth. When does the push and pull come into play? I am not a suspension expert, i just love building this stuff. Maybe I'm not following you?
 
not an expert....I'm a hot-rodder like you.

just unbolt the front and watch it (go in and out) as the suspension goes up and down.

that movement has to be picked up somewhere and if the front and rear cannot move, the the LCA has to, presumed by me at the K-frame bushing. it is not a big movement but over time, who knows....I don't....... maybe it is a non-issue???
 
HemiDenny said:
not an expert....I'm a hot-rodder like you.

just unbolt the front and watch it (go in and out) as the suspension goes up and down.

that movement has to be picked up somewhere and if the front and rear cannot move, the the LCA has to, presumed by me at the K-frame bushing. it is not a big movement but over time, who knows....I don't....... maybe it is a non-issue???
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I'll run a square off the floor and butt it up to the spindle then run it up and down and see how much movement there is forward and back. Seems like if it were moving forward and back or push and pull on the strut rod you would be able to feel the binding in the action. I can move from bottom to top with one finger on the spindle and you never feel a bind or hard spot in the whole action. I'm not doubting you just stating what I've seen so far.
 
the strut rod moves in an arc at the control arm as the suspension goes up and down. I'm not saying it is binding....just moving / wallering. In the factory set-up, that movement it absorbed by the large rubber bushings on the K at the front of the strut. If that area is a solid mount, the movement HAS to be absorbed somewhere else.
 
HemiDenny said:
the strut rod moves in an arc at the control arm as the suspension goes up and down. I'm not saying it is binding....just moving / wallering. In the factory set-up, that movement it absorbed by the large rubber bushings on the K at the front of the strut. If that area is a solid mount, the movement HAS to be absorbed somewhere else.
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I guess I was mis-understanding you the whole time :violent1:
 
no problem.....I'm often mis-understood....just ask my wife.
 
No, my intention was to take a week off work and get some stuff done on the car but work has been crazy the past few months. I've had little to no time to work on the car.
 
737jetdr said:
Junior, Any updates on your progress? Don't leave us hanging !
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I wont be updating this any farther, someone else has taken it upon them selves to carbon copy my design. You can buy a set from them, you'll figure it out.....

Later guys, I will not be sharing anymore of my ideas here for people to knock off for their financial gain.
 
Damn man! I was really enjoying this thread!!! You have some great fabrication talent and best of luck on the rest of your build. Thanks for entertaining me for awhile!
 
.....Now that really sucks the big one, u r doing a great job there junior636.....thank u very much for this thread.....ur an excellent fabricator......kim.......
 
MidTexCuda said:
Junior - Denny

What do you think would happen if you used a rack in the front with a intermediate steering bar mounted perpendicular to the LCA right underneath them that could then pick up a short steering arm in the rear in the stock location?
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HemiDenny said:
You probably wouldn't believe it....but I tried this set up some 20 years ago. I STILL have the pivot shafts / arms I had fabbed.

it just turned into a Rube Goldberg set-up....ackerman was solved , but bumpsteer was a M.F. The pivots (new inner tie rod) would have to be precisely in the same location as the drag links puts the factory pivots.....difficult to place the pivots where needed.

I think you would still need a front steer (pinto / Mustang) rack and not a rear steer Omni rack.
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MidTexCuda said:
well it was just something that popped in my head lol.
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HemiDenny said:
mine too.....one of those "looks good on paper" ideas.
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I found this in storage while digging around this afternoon for some other 20 year old stuff.
This is part of the "experiment" Denny was talking about. I'm surprised he remembered it!


HDK%20Old%20006_zpsgichzmwn.jpg

HDK%20Old%20001_zpsw1iitxi1.jpg
 
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