Tuning Order

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krazyquadridr

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I've done a lot of searching and haven't really found a definitive answer. So, in what order would you guys recommend doing a tune? I'm trying to get my car set up for best performance and I would like to follow the most logical steps to get it there. Any thoughts?
 
If it's running, timing first. All settings should be done with the engine at operating temps.

Set initial timing to a number the engine wants. Not what some book say it was timed to from the factory. Stock 318's get 10-14 initial as an example. Bigger camshafts need more initial timing. Get the carb base idle settings squared away. Then move on to making sure your total number is not out of bounds and adjust as necessary.

The rest of it as far as carb tuning is next up. Jetting, power valve selection if holley, acc pumpsm, etc.

That's the way I do things
 
18436572...oh **** tuning order...what rob said..is the best way...
 
Depends on "what you can tune."

If you have adjustable valves, adjust them first.

If you run breaker points ignition, set the points

Then timing. Cracked is right, if you don't have either of the above, timing is first

Then idle, idle mixture, other carb work.
 
Once you have it running good, use data logs to identify areas of weakness, then address timing and mixture in those areas.

I record MAP, RPM, timing values, AFR, mixture pulse widths, temperatures. Change in RPM, is acceleration. I do a derivative of the RPM, and look at the slope. Then make small changes, in the identified weak areas, to check for improvement. If change is not positive, go the other way. One change at time. At some point, it will be as good as it gets.
 
How will I know I'm where the engine wants with the timing? Sorry if it sounds stupid, I just want to make sure I get it set up correctly.
 
How will I know I'm where the engine wants with the timing? Sorry if it sounds stupid, I just want to make sure I get it set up correctly.

Myself I bring the engine up to full temperature and bring timing up until it starts putting a strain on the starter (almost kicking back) then bring the trimming down a couple degrees at a time , you want it to spin freely and start right up and use a timing lite to see where your engine likes it, then get a reading at 2.400 rpm and see what your full in timing is... running your timing high will make your engine run hotter, as well as running your carb to lean ( not enough fuel for the air mix) so watch your temp. as you drive and adjust as needed, then the other end of this would be to rich
setting of the carb (black smoke out the exhaust) or stand behind your exhaust and it burns your eye's :glasses7: old school memike :D
 
Some may argue this - but IMO the best way to set the timing is repeated runs at a track. A driver will feel the difference between 28 and 42°. You may not feel the difference between 32 and 36, but it might be a few MPH and a drop in ET.
 
How will I know I'm where the engine wants with the timing? Sorry if it sounds stupid, I just want to make sure I get it set up correctly.

You use a vacuum gauge hooked to a source below the throttle blades of the carb so you are getting manifold vacuum.

Using the gauge, disconnect the vacuum advance if you hav one. You turn the idle down to a somewhat low idle rpm -750 800 rpm, then start advancing the timing until you reach maximum vacuum. You may have to turn the idle back down to keep the motor at a low idle as the rpm will keep increasing until you find the end of the upward curve and you stop gaining more vacuum.

Once this happens, retard the timing back down until you see the vacuum start to drop from it's peak. go back and forth until you find the lowest/highest timing that gives the mot vacuum at idle.

That is your initial timing. Your total timing is best found on a dyno, but most Mopars like 34- 36 degrees total timing. You will have to pull your distributor. I like to do it on TDC on the #1 firing stoke and weld up the slots near the end of the travel of the advance mechanism. Usually no more than 20% of the total slot length You can use a small chain saw sharpening file to reshape the end of the slots to match what it looked like originally and keep them even.

Re-install the distributor and test where your total timing ends up. you may have to do this several times until you end up at 34 to 36 degrees total with your initial advance set where you found the sweet spot for your motor using the vacuum gauge.

Once you are dome you then need to adjust your vacuum advance pod using a small allen wrench to turn the screw deep inside the hose nipple start out with it screwed all the way in and then slowly back it out until you hear a gas knock when you transition from light throttle to moderate throttle on the freeway. Back it off a half turn from there and try it again.

It's time consuming, but you only have to do it once.

Always!!!! hook you vacuum advance below the throttle plates, so it sees full manifold vacuum at all times. You will have to turn your idle down even more once its hooked up because it adds more advance at idle.

Once you open the throttle, the manifold vacuum drops, and the extra timing advance from the vacuum advance falls back down to the initial timing setting you figured out earlier with the vacuum gauge.

These number are magic in how they will optimize how your engine runs, but they will like not be what most usually guess at. Some people get close, but they have lots of experience and read lots of good stuff about this the internet.

I had a slant six that liked 22 initial and 32 total. It had twice as much power out of the hole when I was done tuning it this way and got better mileage, dramatically better drivability and ripped on top end. It was a nice little slanty tough.
 

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This thread helped me finally get my car halfways tuned!! Hopin to get it better next week.
 
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