Tunnel ram or no tunnel ram...

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High rpm to me is 1000 rpm over peak power but maybe that's just me being afraid of breaking something and not being able to play again
Not sure I understand what you meant here? Are you saying if your motor peaks at 6000 then 7000 would be 'high'? It's really a matter of opinion I guess. I'm calling above 7500 high and expect to be there with my new junk.
 
I am thinking a B motor, long duration/wide separation angle cam, Max Wedge heads and short runner tunnel ram for my Bonneville plans. Kill some torque and more power up high.
Are you planning to make your own, buy a custom fabbed one or a currently available one? What heads?
 
Are you planning to make your own, buy a custom fabbed one or a currently available one? What heads?
I am in the panning stage and will not be a fully dedicated race car. The car is being built for more speed than I have HP for. I have the chassis done and working on the cage and tubs. I want this to also be able to run on the street. If NA, then TF270 and likely a fab intake. It may be best to just add another atmosphere... or both a tunnel ram and boost.
 
Not sure I understand what you meant here? Are you saying if your motor peaks at 6000 then 7000 would be 'high'? It's really a matter of opinion I guess. I'm calling above 7500 high and expect to be there with my new junk.
Yes, that's what I'm saying but that's personal.
If I had max wedge heads or bigger and a big cam I'd expect more rpm but my lil bit bigger than standard ports are just running out of steam, so I see no real reason to push it much harder
 
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I am thinking a B motor, long duration/wide separation angle cam, Max Wedge heads and short runner tunnel ram for my Bonneville plans. Kill some torque and more power up high.
This sounds like a cool build dude
 
This sounds like a cool build dude
The ultimate goal is to be able to leave the starting line at Speed Week in a car I built in my garage. Speed will be what it is. The end game goal is 200mph. Hopefully there will be street miles put on this summer with a mild motor. Then pass tech and a couple passes, maybe in a street class during USFRA event. All while planning on the HP needed. I have talked to many people who have been very informative.
 
The ultimate goal is to be able to leave the starting line at Speed Week in a car I built in my garage. Speed will be what it is. The end game goal is 200mph. Hopefully there will be street miles put on this summer with a mild motor. Then pass tech and a couple passes, maybe in a street class during USFRA event. All while planning on the HP needed. I have talked to many people who have been very informative.
Sounds like a blast
 
1973 400 block. Magged/sonic checked. It was Hardblocked to the bottom of the 'freeze plugs'. It had alloy caps, bushed lifter bores, 1960ish bobweight. 4.0" Crower crank, 2.1 journal 6.700" BME rods.
Wow at that bob weight, that's exceptional.
 
Wow at that bob weight, that's exceptional.
It was 1955grams with the dished 4.395 bore Diamond 518gram 990x.120wall 1.224C/H 6.700" BME '396' rod 2.100" journal Crower 4.0" crank.

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It's now a 4.390 bore Ross piston which is coated oversized for the 4.395 bore. I had the dome removed and the tops milled down to the same c/h. With internal milling and installed a heavier .185 wall pin as requested by the new owner and a rebalance at 1985grams.

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Started life as some odd type of odd dome with a ?quench bridge? that I didn't like...

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Wow, that's a very strange piston.
Did you have line to line coat the pistons?
I have a funny story of thinking about builds and doing the math on them, Im thinking maybe no one's done that before...but yeah sbc rod journals have been used. Now I have to try small journal sbc.
I take it you are a machinist?
 
Not a machinist. I taught myself how to do things on equipment that's available to me sporadically. It just takes me a long time to do something a machinist can do in a fraction of time. Originally I took one piston and clamped it in the lathe with a sleeve around the skirt (verified run-out) and then I cut the dome off to help conceptualize some aspects of a theoretical build. There I learned they could be repurposed to what they are now and had Rebco do the rest because I couldn't beat their price, timing and quality. After, Line2line did coat the skirts.
 
Not a machinist. I taught myself how to do things on equipment that's available to me sporadically. It just takes me a long time to do something a machinist can do in a fraction of time. Originally I took one piston and clamped it in the lathe with a sleeve around the skirt (verified run-out) and then I cut the dome off to help conceptualize some aspects of a theoretical build. There I learned they could be repurposed to what they are now and had Rebco do the rest because I couldn't beat their price, timing and quality. After, Line2line did coat the skirts.
That's cool, we have some old tools at work that probably haven't been used in decades. Piston shaper is one and knurling tool.
My boss needs to upgrade everything, the tools and machines all work but they all have their quirks which I had to figure out. My boss didn't remember how to do any of the work except the head surfacer so he gave me a overview and I said I can figure it out.
I had line 2 line do my pistons for .001clearance during the rebuild process, Im glad I was told about it because that makes some other builds I want to do more budget friendly.
 
That's cool, we have some old tools at work that probably haven't been used in decades. Piston shaper is one and knurling tool.
My boss needs to upgrade everything, the tools and machines all work but they all have their quirks which I had to figure out. My boss didn't remember how to do any of the work except the head surfacer so he gave me a overview and I said I can figure it out.
I had line 2 line do my pistons for .001clearance during the rebuild process, Im glad I was told about it because that makes some other builds I want to do more budget friendly.
I'm sure I'm plagiarizing someone's else's quote but, one thing i have concluded is that a good machinist can make a part perfect with a hand-file and a bad one can ruin the same part on his digitized 5-axis preprogramed machine. What was the topic in this thread anyway? :lol:
 
I didn’t read all 20 pages of these thread but I can’t believe the love of tunnel rams is so great. Other than the “cool” factor and the ohhh My’s they get at the local street cruise head to head a good four barrel intake will out run a tunnel ram in most cases. Just not necessary in most 8-9-10 second race cars.
 
I didn’t read all 20 pages of these thread but I can’t believe the love of tunnel rams is so great. Other than the “cool” factor and the ohhh My’s they get at the local street cruise head to head a good four barrel intake will out run a tunnel ram in most cases. Just not necessary in most 8-9-10 second race cars.


Tuning. A decent tunnel ram is 40, 50 or more HP better than any single 4.
 
Can't decide if a TR's main attributes are that it fixes Carbs inherent issues, or exploits them.
EFI ignores that question, and according to Engine Masters doesn't add power but does improve tunability, so there is that.:lol:

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I didn’t read all 20 pages of these thread but I can’t believe the love of tunnel rams is so great. Other than the “cool” factor and the ohhh My’s they get at the local street cruise head to head a good four barrel intake will out run a tunnel ram in most cases. Just not necessary in most 8-9-10 second race cars.
Tunnel ram love is real great.
 
But most will never find it. Simplicity gets the win light.
I agree on your earlier point in the context that very few realize the ET/MPH potential of their combo. To this point that is quoted, there are as many less-than-ideal single-4 combo's as there are 2x4. That being the case, generally the TR is worth more power at the start and more with tuning in my experiences. Once a guy 'learns to fish' (tune carbs) it's no more complex IMO.
 
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