Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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CUUDAK

CUUDAK

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In the begining,
Ok guys and gals! Here I go. This is the start of Turbo'n my Barracuda. Here are a few pics to get the thread started. I am waiting on the financing that should be here by the end of the week! Yeah!! I have pondered the "Twin" setup with Mad Dart and considering the amount of room I do "not" have I have chose to use a single Large Turbo.

This is it!
( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0309231126&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT )

This will be a blow-thru setup with a holley 850 DP. I will be using a 1965 383 bored .030 over with forged pistons and "H" beam Eagle rods and the factory Forged crank. 906 heads moderately ported and blended with 2.19 int. 1.81 exh. valves and 1.6 roller rockers. Single plain intake. I will be using a custom grind flat tappet cam from Scott Brown @ Straightline Performance. Here are the specs,

Specs: Intake Exhaust
Lobe Lift .360 .353
Rocker ratio 1.5 1.5
Valve Lift .540 .530
Adv Dur 287 303
[email protected] 240 252
Lobe CentLin 108 116
Lash Hot .000 .000


Valve timing Open Close
@.50 Int 12 BTDC 48 ABDC
Exh 62 BBDC 10 ATDC


Lobe Seperation 112
Degree Intake Lobe 108

Decent lobe seperation and Duration, should be suffecient. Target compression should be at 9.5:1. This engine should produce 400-450 horsepower alone. 8-12 lbs boost for street use. Trans. will be the 833 that is already in the car and the 8 3/4 with the 3.73 gear for now. I will be purchasing a set of C.E.'s "Slid-a-Link" traction helpers. The biggest BFG Drag radial that I can fit under the wheelwells.

I will be using an aftermarket hood with cowl scoop for clearance. I will be able to remove the center support for the hood latch since this will be pinned at the front so the intercooler should fit. I intended on using 2 of the GT45 Turbo's installed inside the fenders behind the headlights but really didn't have the room and didn't want to cut my car up! Well that has since changed and will be using the larger turbo above. As advised by Mad Dart I will be using the 2 60mm wastegates and 1 50mm BOV (For now! It may need 2).

The headers will be custom made by me. More than likely will be a "Log" type due to clearance issues. I have concluded that I will need to relocate the battery to the trunk and install the Turbo in that area. My car has 3.5" exhaust now so I will utilize what is there for the exit of the fumes thru 40 series Flowmasters and Factory chrome tips.

Target "Streetable" horsepower should be in the area of 700-800 if all goes well! I am including pics of what my car is as of this moment. It has a 1969 440-6 HP original 6-pack from a 69 Roadrunner that was totalled by a tree during that fell across the roof. I will be removing it and shoving it under the bench after it is pickled. It only has barely 3000 miles on it. I sold the original 6-pack to a member on Moparts.com some time ago. It was a pain in the azz to tune!!

As the progress continues I will post as many pics as possible. Enjoy the build and speak your mind as I am "not" easily offended! LoL!
 

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That turbo is massiveee!!! Is your goal 1000hp? It may be a lil bit too big. I dunno, maybe someone will chime in with better turbo sizing knowledge

I wanna see this build from start to finish, so, you have me in :-D. Man, you are gonna hate the lack of space in your engine bay fast.:toothy10:
 
Cut it up!!!:naka:

I really like that turbo!! If I would have seen it before a SINGLE would have been in the mix! Buttt I would have only done a 360ci motor also and not a 410.
The turbo you are using is not TOO big in my opinion. I was talking to Turbodart68 "Chris" a while back and he reminded me that
the 5.0 Mustang guys that run really hard go straight to an 88mm Single set up!

Remember you only need 1 Wastegate per Turbo.

Some guys run multiple Blow off valves but that depends. You will find out later if it will be necessary to add another one. I believe you will be fine with 1 of each at your boost level.

That car is gunna haul azzzz!!

Remember you have 50 more Cubic Inches than this guy does here. He is running the GT45 Single Turbo which is Smaller than yours will be!

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTV8QTIVYB0&feature=player_embedded"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTV8QTIVYB0&feature=player_embedded[/ame]
 
Alright lets get down to it!!! Sweet ride, always room for more sick turbo Mopars!!!! Get your crack right here!


On a side note one waste gate is all you need but some guys have experienced boost creep with the bigger motors and had to add a second one. Just food for thought. Maybe put a second flange and just cap it and have it if you need it.
 
O' hell!! I am going to have to change the K-member. I have a late model w/spool mounts, already has the disc brakes and the mounts have been cut and relocated rearward. Will be ordering the poly bushings in the morning to get it up to speed then hopefully have it rebuilt and painted ready to install by the weekend. I will add photos later!
 
turbodart68 said:
Alright lets get down to it!!! Sweet ride, always room for more sick turbo Mopars!!!! Get your crack right here!


On a side note one waste gate is all you need but some guys have experienced boost creep with the bigger motors and had to add a second one. Just food for thought. Maybe put a second flange and just cap it and have it if you need it.
Click to expand...

Ok! Noted. Sounds like a good idea! "Just in case"
 
Awesome project. I assume you're going to build custom headers, got any interest in selling those exhaust manifolds? I'm restoring a 68 383-S car and they're missing.
 
fzmax said:
Awesome project. I assume you're going to build custom headers, got any interest in selling those exhaust manifolds? I'm restoring a 68 383-S car and they're missing.
Click to expand...

These are not the factory manifolds. The left one may be but the right one is from a C-body I think. I would need to get the casting numbers for ya!!

If you are interested you can have them for a set of header flanges from Summit with the 2" stubs welded on them(prt#11654hkr). I think they are $185.00.. You will need to pay for shipping the manifolds tho!

Ah, here is a link,

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=11654hkr&dds=1
 
Thanks for letting me know, but I'm doing a restoration so I'm looking for a correct set. Thanks anyway.
 
fzmax said:
Thanks for letting me know, but I'm doing a restoration so I'm looking for a correct set. Thanks anyway.
Click to expand...

Good luck!! Those things are hell to find and when you do they are priced in their weight of Gold!!
 
Tell me about it. I missed two sets on this site so far. If I don't find them I'll go with a set of TTI's, but I would rather have the manifolds. Sorry for the hijack.
 
Geez this sure is a slow process!!


383 is in the machine shop..Will know by the end of the week if everything checks out. Checking for cracks and all. Has a small groove in 1 cylinder. Once all the squaring is done they will bore the grooved cylinder to determine what the exact overbore will be then it is off to the races!! Trying to find a good forged piston is a pain in the azz! Just ordered the Eagle H-beam rods. Gonna get all this balanced. Also ordered the 440 source girdle so I can get that to the machine shop so it can be fitted. Hopefully I will have it back in a couple of weeks and start the build.. Gonna use the ported 906's until I can sell my Honda 350X trike and then I will order the Eddy's.

Changing the K-frame out for the 73 with disc-brakes and spool mounts. This will give me a bit more room for the down-pipe. Got all new Brake hardware to make sure I can stop!
I will post pics of the engine as soon as I get it back and start assembly..
 
Mad Dart said:
Where are your Parts pictures?? You buy the Turbo Yet?
Click to expand...

No Turbo yet, The guy I am dealing with won't respond over there on the turbo site! Haggling over $15.00.. Guess I will have to spend the extra cash and buy the one from the vendor there. Engine is still at the Machine shop. Haven't heard if they have bored the first hole yet.(will be calling them Monday morning!)
Rods are coming from Eagle and the Girdle should be here Monday morning.
Can't order the pistons until the machine shop calls me with the overbore size for the pistons.

Cam came in Friday but not much to look at.

Picked up all the new hardware for the front brakes Friday as well. New Rotors, inner & outer bearings, seals, calipers, hoses and caps/clips. Haven't ordered the balljoints and bushings yet. I have to put this newer K-frame in for the spool mounts and disc brakes.

I had to take the wife out this weekend for some "Quality" time from the kids if you know what I mean!! Gotta take care of the "Queen" first. LoL!

I will post photos as soon as stuff shows up..
 
I also picked up the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and Aeromotive Boost reference Regulator too!!
 

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inkjunkie said:
Street car? If so you might need a controller http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/11101.pdf for it, or so I have read......
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Dang that thing cost almost as much as the Pump does.....

I may go Magnafluel Prostar 500 series with Internal Bypass. It is good to 2000HP.

Like this one......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAGN...Accessories&hash=item3361031d97#ht_3235wt_939

or this one if room gets too tight like I think it will. On this one I would need a laydown inline filter after the pump.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magn...e_Car_Parts&hash=item19bab6077c#ht_1456wt_941
 
voltage controller for less

http://www.jegs.com/i/Barry+Grant/132/180300/10002/-1

The power step down box varies the voltage to the fuel pump to change putput proportionate to engine. At idle or light throttle, pump voltage is reduced and the loading on the pump and electric motor are reduced. At full throttle acceleration, full voltage is restored and the pump returns to peak output. Power can be manually switched or wired to a wide open throttle switch.
 
Ive been running an a1000 for 5 years with no controller.. Pump runs with the car.. The controller would be nice to cut down the noise, but not needed especially on a budget build
 
Dave_n_68383S said:
Ive been running an a1000 for 5 years with no controller.. Pump runs with the car.. The controller would be nice to cut down the noise, but not needed especially on a budget build
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Where do you have it mounted. Is it on a SOLID surface? Do you think some of the noise is from vibration?
 
Dave_n_68383S said:
Ive been running an a1000 for 5 years with no controller.. Pump runs with the car.. The controller would be nice to cut down the noise, but not needed especially on a budget build
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Definitely a budget build!! Later I will build a more solid setup once all the bugs are gone and it is at full potential.
I plan on mounting it near the fuel tank at the rear on the rail. I have some extra isolators from the MSD6AL that I intended on using for noise issues. I may still purchase the Aeromotive controller tho!
 
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