Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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Cut it up!!!:naka:

AGREED!! I wont be back halfing like Louis did,I want to keep my back seat. Pretty much doing the rest though.

Why do you need to change the K member? I have the Shumacher Big block swap mounts for a 318 to b rb swap.They are really good quality. Good choice if you dont like a LOT of vibration,like from elephant ears. Id reccomend chaining down the drivers side anyways.Cant hurt with a big block.
 
AGREED!! I wont be back halfing like Louis did,I want to keep my back seat. Pretty much doing the rest though.

Why do you need to change the K member? I have the Shumacher Big block swap mounts for a 318 to b rb swap.They are really good quality. Good choice if you dont like a LOT of vibration,like from elephant ears. Id reccomend chaining down the drivers side anyways.Cant hurt with a big block.

Yeah,
I am getting rid of the sandwich mounts. Even with the torque-strap it has mutilated them. I have had a front clip from a 73 Dart racecar for years and it has everything I needed to convert to Disc brakes. With the kind of torque turbo's create I think the spool mounts are way stronger. This was a smallblock k-member that has had the mounts cut and moved back to Direct-connection's specs so with the C-bodis mounts I have everything will drop in nice. Just did my Dad's Duster 318 k-frame the same way but with a 413 in it. He went with solid mounts and I will be using the polyurethane inserts.
 
Girdle showed up today! Still waiting on the Eagle Rods show up. Soon as they show up I can take them to the machine shop. The shop called me today so now the pistons will be ordered!! SLOOOOW process!!
 

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Cut it up!!!:naka:

AGREED!! I wont be back halfing like Louis did,I want to keep my back seat. Pretty much doing the rest though.

No back half............my rear seat will go back in. Trying to keep it as stock looking as possible in a sense. I will even be keeping the factory floor shift and console. It will have some fancy work done to it but it will look stock. Reverse manual valve body and a trans brake in the pushbutton!!

With one of these........

http://www.duncan-motor-sports.com/2.html
 
Finally!!
Deal is done on the S480 Turbo with the .83mm exh wheel and 1.10 a/r housing.. Should be shipped tomorrow!!!
 
Well ****!! Shop called back this morning to confirm the 383 has a 5 inch crack on the outside of the block.. WHHHHYYYYYY ME!!

I guess I need to determine if I should look for another 383 or just change the pistons in the 440!!???

Its much easier to find pistons for the 440 rather than deal with the 383 having to be Custom ground...

Any idea's???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
Yeah, I have read the same thing. I just want to make sure I have no issues with fuel delivery.. Thats why I bought this pump. I have several friends running this pump on streetcars without failure. My car will be no more than a Saturday Night Special..
Ever think about runnig 2 "regular" fuel pumps? Have the primary pump that will feed the fuel system in non-boost situations and then have a secondary pump tied into a hobbs switch that will supply an additional volume of fuel when building boost?? This way you also have a back-up pump should the primary one fail....it will be enough for you to at least get home.....
 
Well ****!! Shop called back this morning to confirm the 383 has a 5 inch crack on the outside of the block.. WHHHHYYYYYY ME!!

I guess I need to determine if I should look for another 383 or just change the pistons in the 440!!???

Its much easier to find pistons for the 440 rather than deal with the 383 having to be Custom ground...

Any idea's???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
The 440 is just going to make header fitment that much worse.....time to get the sawzall out....
 
After this bad news I have another question.. I made the deal on the S480 turbo with the .83 turbine and the 1.10 A/R housing last night. Will this turbo be big enough to use on the 440 that is in my car now????
 
Looks sweet! Sucks about the block.. If the turbo is big enough I would just go for the 440. But I don't claim to be able to do turbo math.
 
Well ****!! Shop called back this morning to confirm the 383 has a 5 inch crack on the outside of the block.. WHHHHYYYYYY ME!!

I guess I need to determine if I should look for another 383 or just change the pistons in the 440!!???

Its much easier to find pistons for the 440 rather than deal with the 383 having to be Custom ground...

Any idea's???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

You should be able to find a 383 Block pretty easy for cheap or free. Nobody seems to use them! Stick to your plan or it is going to cost you alot more money since you already have the parts on order!!! Don't ask me how I know this.:-D
 
I have the very same pump for my car and I have plans on using it also, but with a controller. Just throwing a different idea at you....Good luck with your build.
 
Ok,
Just spoke with a good friend of mine and he has 2 1967 383 blocks he will let me have my choice of.. One needs a crank which I have and the other will need a sleeve. I am picking up the one that needs the crank and taking it to the machine shop to be tanked and Magna-fluxed to make sure it is usable.
March on young one!! LOL!! Not that 41 is young!!
 
voltage controller for less

http://www.jegs.com/i/Barry+Grant/132/180300/10002/-1

The power step down box varies the voltage to the fuel pump to change putput proportionate to engine. At idle or light throttle, pump voltage is reduced and the loading on the pump and electric motor are reduced. At full throttle acceleration, full voltage is restored and the pump returns to peak output. Power can be manually switched or wired to a wide open throttle switch.

The aeromotive controller is out of wack on the price for sure.

This one sounds like a good match and less $$
 
Yeah! Go with the 383! That thing will be bullet proof!

Why are you needing custom pistons?

edit...I see what you mean! I guess I never looked for stock stroke pistons...only strokers!
 
The aeromotive controller is out of wack on the price for sure.

This one sounds like a good match and less $$
The aeromotive controller is wired so that it recieves a tach signal, so you can decide when it ups the voltage. So no messing with a tps on a motor carb. From what I have read the one listed in Jegs needs to have a tps installed to work, for what that is worth....
 
Yeah! Go with the 383! That thing will be bullet proof!

Why are you needing custom pistons?

edit...I see what you mean! I guess I never looked for stock stroke pistons...only strokers!

You got it!! No stock pistons available. I refuse to use those noisy hyperutectic POS pistons. Those are the ones that rattle after engine is up to temp... I need a forged piston.. This engine is a guinea to see what it will handle as far as stock forged crank and stock block. I am using a main girdle and Eagle forged rods with Clevite rod and main inserts. I have always had good luck with Clevite..
 
The aeromotive controller is wired so that it recieves a tach signal, so you can decide when it ups the voltage. So no messing with a tps on a motor carb. From what I have read the one listed in Jegs needs to have a tps installed to work, for what that is worth....

Yes I seen that also....

I am sure I can figure a way for it to trigger using the tach in the same way. A simple relay off the tach so the controller trigger wire gets activated should achieve the same results. Wiring would be a little different depending on what the trigger wire wants as an input signal to do its job is all.
 
why dont you go with a 400 ? is a stronger block they are cheap and you can use everything you already have plus there are off the shelf pistons for it (cheaper)

and ttf member cw25 is running 1.10 ar on his 400 iirc.

just something to think about
 
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