Turbo six on a Budget

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What do you think would be the better option. How well would a turbo engine run without a turbo? If I don’t upgrade the pistons then I will have blow by because I would have the stock cylinder walls. I don’t see a good option here but to save for the whole build all at once.

New rings will take care of the blowby.

Here's my non turbo 225.

 
Are all the other parts of my plan viable. Like the cam and head work or should I do more to that too.
Are all the other parts of my plan viable. Like the cam and head work or should I do more to that too.

For a turbo build? I think it will work fine like it is, stock bottom end and all.....as long as you keep in mind boost limits, don't lean it out and don't lean on the engine for too long a periods at the time.
 
For a turbo build? I think it will work fine like it is, stock bottom end and all.....as long as you keep in mind boost limits, don't lean it out and don't lean on the engine for too long a periods at the time.
Ok this was my plan and then do the rest of the car. Brakes paint ect...
 
Ok this was my plan and then do the rest of the car. Brakes paint ect...

I think it will work fine as long as you remember its limitations. You can always save up in the meantime for upgrades later.
 
Don't neglect your cooling system. More power = more heat, especially with forced induction.

Radiator/fan upgrades should be high on your list.
 
a post that has info on stock pistons in turbo slants

(334) Limits of cast pistons on boost? - Slant Six Forum

The next to last post in that thread by AndyZ needs paid careful attention to. He's dead right. Plus, the ring pack on the stock pistons is also not far enough away from the piston crown to run a lot of boost. The KB pistons for example, have the rings located much further down the piston to keep them out of harm's way. That said......that's a good thread. Seems they agree with what I've been saying. You can do it, but you need to watch the tune.
 
looked at this as whell as other on the .org do you think the 4bbl is the right choice or should i do a mpf or tb kit?

there are huge advantages with MPFI, I run a MegaSquirt MS3 Pro on my slant. Fuel and ignition controls at your fingertips, it also has a two step delay, electric cooling fan controls, data logging and a lot of other toys built into it. The problem is all that costs dollars, then there is the installation time, the learning curve... personally I would not do a TB. But that is my choice.

What is the right carb for your build,, keep looking at threads and talk with folks that have done what you are wanting to do.

If I was 15 I would keep it simple and keep it cheap, you will have ample opportunities over your lifetime to spend money.
 
If it was me, I would START with a factory Super Six setup. That's the factory 2 barrel. It can be easily converted to blow through.
 
"and don't lean on the engine for too long a periods at the time."

anther turbo post, this one is a turbo slant running in the 24 hrs of Lemons events

Yeah, do that, then. :rolleyes:
 
What do you think would be the better option. How well would a turbo engine run without a turbo? If I don’t upgrade the pistons then I will have blow by because I would have the stock cylinder walls. I don’t see a good option here but to save for the whole build all at once.
nothing wrong with "stock cylinder walls",..if thay in good shape! only way to know is to look at and mic them to see if thay still straight and round with no ware or gouges in them! if in good shape all you need is a good glaze busting and a good honing! thats for any piston or ring pack! now if ya got scored walls an ware in the bore it gonna need boring! only way to know is inspection and mic'in the cylinders!
 
So I decided I’m going to do the super six 2bbl with a carter bbd. Run the turbo at about 8psi no intercooler. What do I do for the distributor I have a points set up currently. And what psi is the stock fuel pump good too?
 
So I decided I’m going to do the super six 2bbl with a carter bbd. Run the turbo at about 8psi no intercooler. What do I do for the distributor I have a points set up currently.

If it was my build, I'd run it just to make people ask why. I run points in my Valiant. They work fine as long as everything is in good shape and adjusted correctly. Simple and effective. With a good coil they be every bit as hot as electronic. The biggest advantage is, you already have it.
 
If it was my build, I'd run it just to make people ask why. I run points in my Valiant. They work fine as long as everything is in good shape and adjusted correctly. Simple and effective. With a good coil they be every bit as hot as electronic. The biggest advantage is, you already have it.
So I decided I’m going to do the super six 2bbl with a carter bbd. Run the turbo at about 8psi no intercooler. What do I do for the distributor I have a points set up currently. And what psi is the stock fuel pump good too?
A Mopar electronic distributor distributor adapts easily to a HEI module. A guy over at .org had found a way to use a 5 pin HEI to pull ignition timing as boost increased. I will look around .org for that thread. Some MSD and other aftermarket ignition boxes can be set up to pull ignition advance as boost increases. Lots of options.
 
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If it was my build, I'd run it just to make people ask why. I run points in my Valiant. They work fine as long as everything is in good shape and adjusted correctly. Simple and effective. With a good coil they be every bit as hot as electronic. The biggest advantage is, you already have it.
I like the points I just replaced the cap rotor points condenser and have a msd blaster2 coil I was just unsure how to pull timing under boost or do I just turn down the initial.
 
I like the points I just replaced the cap rotor points condenser and have a msd blaster2 coil I was just unsure how to pull timing under boost or do I just turn down the initial.

I'm unsure a boost retard will work with points....that might be a hangup. OR you can run a conservative timing curve and good gas. I don't know that you'll really need to pull timing with low boost.....I could be wrong.
 
the last post in this short thread mentions using a 5 pin HEI module from a 80' Toronado to pull the ignition timing back when under boost.

post your ignition maps for your boosted slants - Slant Six Forum

and search out the posts by SSG Pohlman at .org he did a lot of low buck turbo slant six solutions.
and in case you did not know, this is what a Hobbs switch is:
note this is just one example, but this one is available either normally open or closed

Hobbs Switch, Boost Activated, Boost Level Adjustable : atpturbo.com
 
I’m going to suggest something out of the normal opinion. Leave the stock 225 alone, completely stock, and build your turbo kit, and run the crap out of it. Most first time turbo builds bite the dust early on and are a great learning experience. Use this engine as a learning tool. In the mean time find another 225 and have it on a stand and slowly build it in to the boost ready short block. Also, read, read, read, as much as you can about turbocharging. I’ll suggest (again) the book “supercharged” written by Corky Bell for all kinds of theory. And any other book Corky wrote is worth the money. You MUST limit timing while under boost, but don’t want it pulled back when cruising. Spend the coin on an msd6btm you’ll thank me. And it will work for points. The stock fuel pump will barely keep up with a warmed up slant. Use some type of electric pump and a fuel pressure regulator referenced to boost as you need to increase pressure directly proportionate to boost. IE 1:1. This should get you started. I’m so glad a 15 year old has this much interest. Stick with it and ask as many questions as you can. Happy Hot Rodding.
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