Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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Most drill presses are going to ruin the bore no matter how rigid the base and structure because they don't have the correct type of spindle bearings to deal with the side forces generated by single point boring. The tool hanging out that far is going to wobble all over then grab and break something if the motor has any nuts. I'm all for McGyvering stuff if you have to, but it doesn't make any sense here. I think you'd be better off wearing out a couple of flex hones to do your overbore rather than modifying a POS drill press.
 
Jessearent said:
Modify and measure. The Idea is too important to ignore....machine shop nation wide will get there becoming forchargeig so much and taking to longto complete our needs.
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I know a machinist from my old job who was brilliant. He once showed me pictures of a homemade boring bar setup he used to cut the ID of a cutlass bearing on a big ship.
I mean he fabricated the entire tool to cut the ID of the ship bearing
If your asking could a drill press be used to fabricate a boring bar for an engine cylinder, id say anything is possible but it would not be practical or economical, to mention nothing of being confident the bore would be properly machined
 
Steve welder said:
it would not be practical or economical, to mention nothing of being confident the bore would be properly machined
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you're right you know..jpg
 
Projectile Dart said:
There is a reason why honing stones that the average person can buy come on a "flexible" rod so that they can self-center and follow the angle of the bore. Most levels of precision high than that require specialized tools and measuring equipment that can be not only expensive to buy, but can take years to master. I understand what you are going for but I don't think you will be able to achieve the levels of "precision" that you think you can.
That being said I'm all for innovation, I would love for you to prove me wrong but I won't buy anything unless you can prove with before and after measurements.

FYI running a machine shop is NOT cheap and that's why many shops have to charge so much for seemingly "simple" jobs. This mentality of blue collar workers overcharging is what is forcing so many manufacturing jobs to be sent overseas. Once they're all gone then you will have people blaming politicians for driving jobs away... It all begins with OUR behavior.
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gzig5 said:
Most drill presses are going to ruin the bore no matter how rigid the base and structure because they don't have the correct type of spindle bearings to deal with the side forces generated by single point boring. The tool hanging out that far is going to wobble all over then grab and break something if the motor has any nuts. I'm all for McGyvering stuff if you have to, but it doesn't make any sense here. I think you'd be better off wearing out a couple of flex hones to do your overbore rather than modifying a POS drill press.
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I found an 8"/205mm Diamond Core drilling machine '3980w' rig on VEVOR for $265.99, I will start with that and add bore head in place of the cement bit . Buy $50 bore head out of Harbor freight and figure out what to do next. Any constructive advice is always needed and gladfully accepted ...how about a good reasonably priced hone bit...test doing a hone before any bores.
abdywgn said:
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I dont know how to send a PDF of the 8" Diamond Core drilling machine /rig 3980w but it's on Amazon or VEVOR.
 
I need something besides single point boring..any 2-4 point bore heads available? Anybody? I can research but it's better when I have help from you guys.
 
I am having a party in a few weeks. You think I could get some of that stuff that's fueling all these WAY OUT THERE ideas?

Precession boring is done with a single point boring bar 99% of the time. It take horsepower to turn even a single point bit.

The only people using more than one cutter at a time boring are the OEM engine companies, and they have high powered custom built machines.

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I am having a party in a few weeks. You think I could get some of that stuff that's fueling all these WAY OUT THERE ideas?

Precession boring is done with a single point boring bar 99% of the time. It take horsepower to turn even a single point bit.

The only people using more than one cutter at a time boring are the OEM engine companies, and they have high powered custom built machines.

Tom
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Thx Tom
 
Boring a block is a machining operation preformed with the proper equipment by people that know how. I remember my first at tech school. The instructor was right there making sure it was done right and we did it with a proper boring bar. If you think you can do it with a drill press you are sadly mistaken and foolish for thinking so. Think seriously about the rabbit hole you are going down. (I am thinking you are serious and not just clowning around)
 
I would be happy with just being able to HONE a 0.030" .010" over to .040" myself at home. I don't think this is a rabbit hole.
 
Jessearent said:
I would be happy with just being able to HONE a 0.030" .010" over to .040" myself at home. I don't think this is a rabbit hole.
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The machine shops rigid hone a few thousands of an inch for a final bore size. You are way over your head here. You either need the services of a machine shop or you need to go to school to learn how to do it properly.
 
OK, I have the tool, best one available I think. The LISLE 15000 Cylinder hone. It's the rigid type and good reviews, can remove taper and .003-.010" in no time. I was hoping for something with a micrometer build in , but I haven't seen that one yet.
 
Jessearent said:
OK, I have the tool, best one available I think. The LISLE 15000 Cylinder hone. It's the rigid type and good reviews, can remove taper and .003-.010" in no time. I was hoping for something with a micrometer build in , but I haven't seen that one yet.
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Now let's hook it up to our 8" / 205mm 3980w Diamond Core drill rig and figure a way to anchor it directly over the boer.
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