Turn indicator lever works only one side?

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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Another fun one, When I use the blinker for turning left, as I straighten the wheel it will go off. However if I make a right turn and use my blinker, it nevers shuts off. I have to move it to make it stop. Is this an easy fix? help.. otherwise I am going to hand signals

ddart 1966 L6 auto
 
I had this problem in my 67 Barracuda in the early 90's, and replaced the turn signal switch in the steering column. It works like this if I remember right, there is little hook that keeps the signal on until a single tooth or a cam on a gear releases the hook, allowing the turn signal to turn off. I had to take my steering wheel off to replace the switch. After I did, the signal lever springiness was a bit better too. The part that breaks is the hook. The plastic gets brittle, the hook falls off and ends up on the floor or in the steering column. The part does NOT cost $19 anymore. =(
 
The immediate problem is the turn signal "cam", which is the topmost part of your turn signal switch. It's a sort of ear-shaped piece of plastic that rotates slightly clockwise (for a right turn) or counterclockwise (for left) when you move the turn signal lever. This moves hook-shaped pieces of plastic at the upper (right turn) or lower (left) end of the cam into striking distance of a metal finger clamped around the steering wheel's underside shank. When the steering wheel rotates so this finger contacts the cam ear, it pushes the cam (and therefore the switch and lever) back into the neutral/no-turn position. The plastic gets brittle over the years and breaks off, then the switch doesn't cancel any more.

You can buy a replacement cam for twenty-odd dollars, such as a NAPA Echlin DL-6123. It will fail quickly, because they are made of a cheap grade of plastic. A long time ago (most of 20 years) you could buy a cam made of much better material from David Koldos. Perhaps you still can. If you can, and you do, your immediate problem will be fixed.

However, your turn signal switch is probably half a century old. The cam isn't the only thing that wears and fails. The detents in the switch body get loose and sloppy so the lever no longer snaps into/stays in the left/neutral/right positions. The contacts and shuttles inside the switch wear down so they no longer reliably direct current to the various lights; you start to get symptoms like front signal works but not rear (or vice versa), or brake lights sometimes don't light (their power goes through the turn signal switch). Before that happens, the signals and brake lights grow gradually dimmer because of increasing resistance in the turn signal switch.

You might want to fix and prevent all the problems all at once with one of these, instead.
 
slantsixdan said:
The immediate problem is the turn signal "cam", which is the topmost part of your turn signal switch. It's a sort of ear-shaped piece of plastic that rotates slightly clockwise (for a right turn) or counterclockwise (for left) when you move the turn signal lever. This moves hook-shaped pieces of plastic at the upper (right turn) or lower (left) end of the cam into striking distance of a metal finger clamped around the steering wheel's underside shank. When the steering wheel rotates so this finger contacts the cam ear, it pushes the cam (and therefore the switch and lever) back into the neutral/no-turn position. The plastic gets brittle over the years and breaks off, then the switch doesn't cancel any more.

You can buy a replacement cam for twenty-odd dollars, such as a NAPA Echlin DL-6123. It will fail quickly, because they are made of a cheap grade of plastic. A long time ago (most of 20 years) you could buy a cam made of much better material from David Koldos. Perhaps you still can. If you can, and you do, your immediate problem will be fixed.

However, your turn signal switch is probably half a century old. The cam isn't the only thing that wears and fails. The detents in the switch body get loose and sloppy so the lever no longer snaps into/stays in the left/neutral/right positions. The contacts and shuttles inside the switch wear down so they no longer reliably direct current to the various lights; you start to get symptoms like front signal works but not rear (or vice versa), or brake lights sometimes don't light (their power goes through the turn signal switch). Before that happens, the signals and brake lights grow gradually dimmer because of increasing resistance in the turn signal switch.

You might want to fix and prevent all the problems all at once with one of these, instead.
Click to expand...

I GOTTA get me one of those! Probably a xmas present for myself.
 
I did the cam first 6 months later I had to change the switch. Fpund a nos switch on ebay for 50 bucks.
 
50 bucks is a nice price, but shop carefully—the first word in NOS is "New", but the second word is "Old", and plastic grows brittle with age. Also, even if you're buying new-new, there is a flood of cheap Chinese garbage on the market.
 
so it only works properly to the left?


sounds to me like the car was set up for nascar racing
 
The new replacement turn signal switches SUCK. I've had my column apart several times adjusting the little metal tabs in the switch so they touch the proper contacts when they're supposed to. What sucks is the fact that the brake lights run through that switch too. Good luck with the fix. Hopefully it's just a broken cam.
 
Great, I ordered that one and installed it today. Interesting how you have to pry out the old one, basically breaking apart. Got the new one in, changed the bulb while I was there and had to add ground wire to it, odd.
So now the cam cancels the turn as normally on the left. The right is strange, as it cancels like it is supposed to, but it also stops the front turn indicator way to early. However the rear keeps blinking until turn is complete. I can hear it blinking, but the dash stops blinking at the same time as the front right light.

I guess I am more concerned that the rear works correctly which it does.
Thanks for your help.

horn works, gear indicator works, cam cancel works.
on a related note the steering wheel is pretty cracked, not sure what is holding it together.
 
Your switch is worn out. Everything will work correctly/reliably again when you put in a good quality new one.
 
Just wanted to add a pic so you can see the broken ear. I actually found it down inside. It is marked Mopar so I assume must be original? Had to pry/break it out. The new one, the hole had to be slightly enlarged in order to get it on. Then it wasn't as flush at the mounting screw. So now it is tighter to use signal than before. The new one does include a little retainer washer that helps.

My poor cracked steering wheel.:violent1:
 

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You should pay attention to those who have said that is a quick temp fix. I put 3 of the cams in. All in a period of 3 months. They are junk. 1 from Ebay and 2 From O'Reallys. Both same flees, just different dogs.
Last one I put in is an OEM. Cost a bit more ($65) but was a complete new switch with harness, contacts, and connectors. Works a champ and haven't had another problem since. (6+ months).
I hope yours doesn't fail but I am afraid it will. Just hope it is note when you need it most. (Mine failed twice late at night in town. Police pulled me over one of them to let me know that "Hand Signals are not approved for driving after dusk." Luckily, no ticket.. Just the warning to get it home soonest.
Good Luck.
 
mine at Oreillys, it must be good, it has a lifetime warranty?:banghead:
and where did you find a complete new assembly for $65?
 
gdizzle, note swies has a different car than yours. The later-model switches are a lot more readily available in decent quality than the early-model ones.
 
gdizzle said:
mine at Oreillys, it must be good, it has a lifetime warranty?:banghead:
and where did you find a complete new assembly for $65?
Click to expand...
As Dan said, mine is newer model than yours and more readily available.
IIRC, (Dan or others can correct me here) the switch model that fits my '75 Dart was used in another form (with the turn clearance light output) into the mid-late 80's.
The switch I bought is Chrysler OEM and was a perfect fit. It does have the clearance light output but I left them pigtailed up under the dash since I do not have those lamps.
 
slantsixdan said:
gdizzle, note swies has a different car than yours. The later-model switches are a lot more readily available in decent quality than the early-model ones.
Click to expand...

^Thanks Dan, I didn't mean to confuse gdizzle. Just sometimes I think other people know what I am thinking when I type. Very rarely does it work out that way.:eek:ops:
 
Waking this thread back up. The $20 Oreilys part didn't quite get it working 100%. So removed it again, and closely inspected the original assembly, the little tiny ridges that hold the indicator in place were both cracked. Was able to replace the entire assembly with an old used one. Man, tell me there must be some trick to feeding those damn wires in the steering column? Finally got it all back together and now working real solid. I'll let this go until it breaks again then time to turn to Dan. :) thanks everyone for all your help.
 
gdizzle said:
Man, tell me there must be some trick to feeding those damn wires in the steering column?
Click to expand...

Yup. Here's the full procedure including that trick:

Remove the steering wheel's central emblem (careful not to crack it). Remove the ground wire from its terminal. Remove the three screws holding the horn ring/button and horn switch. Lift out the horn switch. Remove the steering wheel nut. Use a wheel puller to remove the wheel. Remove the single screw that holds the turn signal lever to the switch and remove the lever. Remove the three screws holding the switch to the column and lift out the metal retainer plate.

The switch plugs into the under-dash wiring harness with a rectangular nylon multi-connector block at the base of the steering column (inside the car). You remove the nylon connector block by releasing each individual wire from the block, one at a time. This is achieved by means of a Terminal Extractor Pick (or, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend money, a darning needle), inserted into the slot at the "front" (connector) end to depress the terminal's lock tab. Then a careful tug of the wire pulls it out the back of the connector block.

Draw yourself a diagram of which wire goes to which slot in the connector block.

Here's the trick:
Once you've released all the terminals from the block, tie a long piece of string or twine round the bundle of wires at the very end near the terminals. Withdraw the old switch, which will pull the string up the column. Untie it, tie it round the wire bundle on the new switch, then pull the string to guide the new wire bundle down the column without any of the wires snagging and refusing to show themselves at the bottom. Insert the wires into their correct locations in the terminal block, plug it back in, reassemble everything up top...and you're done.
 
Great trick Dan! That's definitely a frustration saver. tmm
 
Dan, I tried to send you a pm wanting this part for 67 GTS but box is full. Please pm me, thanks Joe
 
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