Turn Signal Switch / Brake light

[George Hernandez]

The car is a 1970 Dart - non Rallye instrument cluster

I know this has been discussed before, but wanted to double check before I throw parts at this just in case I'm missing anything.

What works:
turn signals (front and rear)
tail lamps
headlamps
instrument cluster indicators and illumination
dome light check
front hazard flashers

What doesn't work
brake lights
rear hazard flashers

The harness and electronics are pretty pristine. Nothing is chopped up. I replaced the bulbs and checked for corrosion. I checked the fuses under load (and with the power off) for continuity and voltage. Battery is completely charged. It all checks out.

I pulled the steering wheel so I could access the turn signal switch leads at the switch and confirmed I'm getting 12 volts at the white wire (on both sides) when depressing the brake pedal (white input and white wire going through the hazard light switch and to the turn signal cam area). However, that power is not making it to the brown or green wires when braking only when I activate a turn signal.

This must be happening at the turn signal switch. I confirmed continuity from the steering column harness/plug to the body plug under the kick panel and from there to the tail light itself. Again turn signals are working and there is continuity at that ground in the rear.

SO - I'm guessing the issue here is I need a new turn signal switch - or is there anything else I am missing?

Just hate to replace the original switch if it could be anything else. My experience with these cars is the new replacement switches aren't all that great :-/

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Since the rear tail-lites work, that means those are good, and Probably installed correctly (but may not be) and the ground is ok.
Then, prove the fuses, then
prove the bulbs are 1157s, have clean contacts and are properly indexed, then
prove the brake switch,
then pull the steering wheel and check the signal switch. I have seen it where the signal/brake contacts have melted into the nylon switch so deep, that the wiper couldn't reach them anymore. My repair was to glob some solder on them, dress them flat, and slam it all back together.

 

[George Hernandez]

Since the rear tail-lites work, that means those are good, and Probably installed correctly (but may not be) and the ground is ok.
Then, prove the fuses, then
prove the bulbs are 1157s, have clean contacts and are properly indexed, then
prove the brake switch,
then pull the steering wheel and check the signal switch. I have seen it where the signal/brake contacts have melted into the nylon switch so deep, that the wiper couldn't reach them anymore. My repair was to glob some solder on them, dress them flat, and slam it all back together.

Thanks. Yes - that's pretty much the order of operation for my diagnostic. The contacts not contacting anymore in the switch are probably the issue. The switch does have some brown/hot spots on it and it has a replacement cam on it already.

 

[67Dart273]

Sometimes the trouble is actually in the integrated hazard switch, but it sure sounds like you are headed for a new TS switch

 

[George Hernandez]

Sometimes the trouble is actually in the integrated hazard switch, but it sure sounds like you are headed for a new TS switch

That's exactly what happened with my OER replacement switch (put it in when I rebuilt the column) and why I went back to the OEM switch, lol.

Reached out toe Daniel Stern and will be getting a replacement - hopefully the last one for a while! I don't like to time these with oil changes!