Turn Signal Troubles

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brake light current must go through the signal switch to get there. If the signal switch is disconnected and stepping on the brake pedal would have no effect.
I can't "go figure that out". Bring it and I'll figure it out.
 
Thats funny because both happened at the same time... Yes I did replace the TS switch. Nothing is new all worked a month ago. You give me things to check like connect and disconnect plug but nothing changes buts what does happen is when the rear harness is hooked up and TS disconnected And I hit the Brakes the Right Rear does not light.The left does. I thought maybe with all the testing you would tell me the that the wire from here to here is bad. Not just keeps pluging and un pluging things.
 
RichardJ916 said:
I thought maybe with all the testing you would tell me the that the wire from here to here is bad. Not just keeps pluging and un pluging things.
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I did tell you that. That is what the diagrams are for. Go read through this thread carefully

This post for one

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970561025&postcount=29

This post for another

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970568362&postcount=50

Checking out the rear harness is easy. Get your service manual. Find the section showing that diagram. It's a simple harness with the kick panel plug on one end, and the tail lights on the other Basically this is what you have in that harness

1.....Maybe power for the trunk light circuit (This might be an option)

2......The wire to the fuel tank sender

3.....The wire for tail lamp / marker power

4.....The wire for left side brake / turn

5.....The wire for right side brake / turn.

The trouble with only one lamp could be right at the socket or right in the bulb.
 
Well unfortunately, this is a very unusual problem and there are several places where this can be messed up, and no just 'do this' solution. It is pretty much impossible to figure out shorts circuits and crossed wires by remote control in the internet. It has to be done on the scene and all we can do it ask you to try this annd that and maybe a clue wil emerge.

As said, with the TS disconnected, there should be NO brake filaments lighting, left or right. The brake switch sends 12v via the white wire to the TS switch and then on the brake lights. That is the ONLY place it goes, so if the TS is disconnected, it should be impossible to light ANYTHING with the brakes. Nothing, nada, zip. So, the only conclusion is that you have a wire crossed or shorted somewhere, or a non-standard conenction fromt he brake switch's white wire to something.... The only way to find this is to get under there and start tracing them out to see if they go where they should. The wiring daigram is your friend in this.

Unfortunately, we can't possibly see the wires via the internet. So we are all stuck now 'til someone gets under the dash. If you post a pix of the TS switch connector and other points of interest like the brake switch and others spots, maybe someone can spot something odd.
 
moparlover said:
whoever the bozo is that recommended him pulling his steering column apart first and changing a switch before checking the wires: good job you are killing me
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Thanks for the insulting demeanor.

First off no one said to change the turn signal cam, it was mentioned as a potential problem.

Secondly, Richard thought he had another and could unplug the existing one and just plug in another and see what the results were, he was able to pick one up locally from another member here and try it, no change as it were.

You do realize that a different TS switch can be plugged in without tearing into the column, correct?
 
Nothing looks to shorted, the buk head connector looks good also...Well maybe just need to get a new rear harness...Not really sure.
 
OK, try this. Remove both rear bulbs. leave everything else alone. Apply brakes. Does front light come on? If yes, Im stuck. The problem is in the harness. But If no, then one of the rear bulbs is feeding into the running lamp circuit due to; A) wrong bulb or bad bulb,or incorrectly indexed bulb, or bad socket. I am assuming you have, known to be good, correct bulbs and have correctly installed them;
- so To check the socket;, working at the back, key off, bulbs out,stare down into the sockets. You should see two little contacts sticking up off the insulator. When they overheat they sometimes melt down into the insulator and come into close proximity to eachother.Then the bulb could short the two circuits; brake and running.Its also possible for them to short underneath the insulator. Also that insulator is supposed to have a little tab on it which orients it to the socket. If its broke off or if for whatever reason not working, then the insulator can rotate relative to the bulb indexing pathways and again the bulb contacts can bridge the socket contacts.Just a thought.
-And finally,remember that the dual filament bulbs share an internal ground pathway. if the rear ground is not working it is possible for one of the filaments to attempt to ground through the other filament thus appearing as a crossfeed. I have seen this many times. I know others have mentioned it,but again PROVE your grounds. Grounds are always the first line of defence on vehicles that use the chassis as a ground.
 
This sounds like my 69 Dart. My problem is the emergency flasher switch that is mounted on the dash. When lights act up, the switch needs to be wiggled. I have a spare flasher switch somewhere, but can't find it.
 
No not yet, there is a car show next Saturday, then after that I am going to start working on things. Sorry for the delay.....
 
But when I do have time I am going to unplug the rear harness and apply voltgae to each and every wire going to the rear and make sure the bulbs lights up. One at a time and make sure nothing else turns on. I am sure it will prove something.
 
Ground the headlight switch to the body at the steering column hold down bracket. The tail lights are looking for a ground path. Most headlight switches on these cars actually have a spade terminal on the switch housing. the switch normally grounds through the mounting in to the dash bezel. Over time this ground path becomes unable to support the current flow. Corrosion , too much paint , and lack of use. Remember it's the headlight switch housing that is to be grounded
 
OK I will try this,,,,, I have the car put up for the winter, but will get out and so some updates this winter, i will keep this in mind thanks for everones help....

THANKS


jeff1 said:
Ground the headlight switch to the body at the steering column hold down bracket. The tail lights are looking for a ground path. Most headlight switches on these cars actually have a spade terminal on the switch housing. the switch normally grounds through the mounting in to the dash bezel. Over time this ground path becomes unable to support the current flow. Corrosion , too much paint , and lack of use. Remember it's the headlight switch housing that is to be grounded
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Car is still covered and have not had time to look at this trouble, but weather is getting nicer here and should have time very soon.
 
Still covered from 2014? Man thats one hell of a winter! haha Just giving you ****. My 70 duster just started doing the exact same thing with the rear lights and I figured it was a ground issue with the rear lights because my old CJ7 does the same funky **** when grounds get funny. One other thing to add though, my fuel gauge also stopped working at what seems the same time. Maybe a coincidence?
 
jeff1 said:
Ground the headlight switch to the body at the steering column hold down bracket. The tail lights are looking for a ground path. Most headlight switches on these cars actually have a spade terminal on the switch housing. the switch normally grounds through the mounting in to the dash bezel. Over time this ground path becomes unable to support the current flow. Corrosion , too much paint , and lack of use. Remember it's the headlight switch housing that is to be grounded
Click to expand...
This is not correct. Not one current path out of a headlight switch routes all the way back to and/or through the headlight switch. Current out to all lamps grounds at those bulbs and fixtures.
All replacement headlight switches will have a terminal for a ground wire which is required in some models ( one size fits all ). Where a mostly plastic inst' panel is mounted in a mostly plastic dash, they had to add a actual ground wire somewhere.
 
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