U Joint help

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Ironmike

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Believe it or not, I can't seem to find any non-greaseable U joints for my Demon.

I need a 7260 style for the tranny yoke and a 7260/7290 for the rear end joint.

Any part numbers or retail info would be a big help. Summit, Jegs, Rockauto all a no go....
 
Napa shows the same part number(7260 type) for both joints. The joint at the tranny is a straight 7260. My rear joint is the 7260 to 7290 at the center section. I'm wondering if this was the factory set-up. Gonna have to do more digging.
 
You can get a spl solid joint from spicer for the front.... which is 5-789

napa is china junk

There are no solid version of the conversion/jump joint for 7260/90

If the conversion joint is for dd use then you're ok, for racing you're playing with fire.
 
Will be racing it occasionally. Got no choice but a Rockwood conversion joint. Greaseable but the zerk is not on centerline to the joint. 525 horsepower. 4 speed car. Kinda scary I know, but a few guys I know are running it.
Again....no choice, unless someone makes a solid 7260/7290 that nobody knows about.
 
Believe it or not, I can't seem to find any non-greaseable U joints for my Demon.

I need a 7260 style for the tranny yoke and a 7260/7290 for the rear end joint.

Any part numbers or retail info would be a big help. Summit, Jegs, Rockauto all a no go....

As far as I'm concerned, the solid Spicer non-greasable joints are the best. There is also a "Brute Force" brand (1-6301 BF, I believe) but Spicer is better.

I would also suggest a billet rear end yoke with u-bolts, especially with a 4-speed, which you could go ahead and get for the 7260 joints. Mancini sells them. OEM style rear end yokes can spread over time and spit out the joint. I learned the hard way and no problems for years now. (Avg. 1.49-1.50 60' times in a 3,550 lb small block, auto trans Dart Sport!)
 
Will be racing it occasionally. Got no choice but a Rockwood conversion joint. Greaseable but the zerk is not on centerline to the joint. 525 horsepower. 4 speed car. Kinda scary I know, but a few guys I know are running it.
Again....no choice, unless someone makes a solid 7260/7290 that nobody knows about.


Here is what you do, change the weld yoke to 1330 series and then use the 1330 x 7290 on the rear and you're golden. . .

A conversion joint with a stick is called russian roulette in the driveline business. .

So when you make that shaft slam the floor at the line or the 1/2 shift, have your local driveline shop make the new shaft with 1310 front and 1330 rear and then use the 5-787 front and the 5-796 rear joint, then you can go beyond 500hp
 
Man. Got a Spicer 5-789x for the tranny joint, which SHOULD work, but it's just a couple thou too big. Cap diameter is ok though. Won't fit in the tranny yoke OR the driveshaft. A Napa joint fits in there fine. Don't want to use the Napa.
What the heck!

What is the easiest way for me to get this thing track-safe. I've spent a ton of money and don't want some u-joint blow up to ruin it all. Don't want to spend a fortune. But I'll do what I have to...

Factory Demon 340 4 speed with what I think is the factory 833 slip yoke and driveshaft.
In the back is a Detroit Tru-Trac 4:10 I put in last year. It does use u-bolts but is a 7290 yoke, just like my original(I think) 3:23 Sure grip.

I need a plan. Or two.
 
Since it's solid with no fitting, there could be a little "hydraulic lock" that may require a little more pressure to bring the caps in enough to get the snap rings in - if that's what you're talking about.

Got a vise or a big c-clamp?
 
Are you sure the rear is 7290, does the cap fit the cradle perfectly tight or a little loose

The spl joints have a tight triple seal, i instal joints differently than you guys do i have made special tools so i can remove and instal joints in a minute, you need to put some pressure on them
 
Vice? Hell I have a hydraulic press, but with the caps off, you can't fit the 5-789 body into the yoke. The body is just too wide. Not by much. A 7260 series from Denny's Driveshaft showed up today and fit right in. Grease zerk on the end cap. Still not comfortable with it.

If I could get a Spicer 7260 series solid that FIT, I think I'd just get a billet 7260 pinion yoke and be happy.

It's always something....

New stroker motor...had some issues. "Gotta have a scattershield" led to lots of fab for a solid clutch linkage with Quicktime's "bolt on" bellhousing. Frame connectors...done.

Now this. It's starting to be not fun.
 
It's always something and if you really want it to be bullet proof just bite the bullet and get the 1350 trans and rear yokes and have a 3.5" shaft made.
 
The only thing napa has that MAY be made in north-America are the boxes.

The last precision joint i have seen, which was a couple months ago, i would bet money that CAP are making, and they're a china company.

You may have bought some joints that are older, there new stuff is definitely not
 
The only thing napa has that MAY be made in north-America are the boxes.

The last precision joint i have seen, which was a couple months ago, i would bet money that CAP are making, and they're a china company.

You may have bought some joints that are older, there new stuff is definitely not

All I can tell you is one was a conversion joint from big fraud to big mopar (358) and the other was the "big" Mopar joint, (316) and BOTH are clearly marked "made in USA" both one the boxes and cast onto the crosses.

A 316 joint is not all that unpopular, I can't believe I got the last one in the U.S. I can post pictures

You sure you didn't get an "in house" boxed deal?"

Why'n'ell won't this site let me post part no. three five eight?
 
Im in the driveline business, TRUST me they're are using china, and depending how many the store ordered, or napa had in stock you very well could have a few year old joint thats been sitting on a shelf, the new stuff is china

Believe it or not, conversion joints, while they may seem popular here, aren't in hundreds of thousands of cars.

The new joints no longer have made in the usa

Spicer stopped making the AL joints 5 years ago, i still have a few left. . . it's not unbelievable to get old stock
 
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