u- joints
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Which one to use depends on a lot of things; power, weight, tire size, foot brake, trans brake, 4 spd car, etc.
I am aware of people going 9's on a regular basis (one guy said "less leverage") using solid body, non-greaseable 7260 (small) joints. Others go straight to 1350's. I was using 7290's (65 Barracuda 3020lbs with me in it, me 175lb, car goes 11.1*), had a failure though it was NOT the u-joints fault, the bearing seat in the drive shaft failed. In a fit of paranoia I went to 1350's, in retrospect another drive shaft with 7290 joints would have been fine. I beleave the shaft failed due to metal fatuge, before I put it in my Barracuda, it came out of an old Cordoba.
So in the end, what I'm saying is start with a brand new shaft, ends, yoke, etc, use solid non-greaseable joints, 7290 joint will be just fine.
I am aware of people going 9's on a regular basis (one guy said "less leverage") using solid body, non-greaseable 7260 (small) joints. Others go straight to 1350's. I was using 7290's (65 Barracuda 3020lbs with me in it, me 175lb, car goes 11.1*), had a failure though it was NOT the u-joints fault, the bearing seat in the drive shaft failed. In a fit of paranoia I went to 1350's, in retrospect another drive shaft with 7290 joints would have been fine. I beleave the shaft failed due to metal fatuge, before I put it in my Barracuda, it came out of an old Cordoba.
So in the end, what I'm saying is start with a brand new shaft, ends, yoke, etc, use solid non-greaseable joints, 7290 joint will be just fine.
We run an 11 second Dakota in I/CM with 1350's. We have never had a failure, but we had the driveshaft built by a reputable company using heavy wall tubing. The truck leaves hard with the tires bunched up and the front wheels between 3-4" off the ground. The 60' times are in the high 1.40's to low 1.50's, just my .02.
bsad67
Well-Known Member
Have a drive shaft built to take a 1350 and never look back after you chage the yoke
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Similar info to what Demonracer said. My driveline guy said that Spicer solid joints are the best. so I use their 7260 version in my Dart with one of his driveshafts. I suggest a billet steel rear end yoke because the OEM style can spread over time and heavy abuse. My Dart weighs a minimum of 3,530 lbs. That's how I lost a driveshaft many years ago and it shattered the trans, bent the converter and knocked pieces out of the back of the block. No problems since.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I went with 1350 in a chromemoly driveshaft and 904 yoke.I also have a billet yoke on the Dana60.I ran the crossover 7260/7290 with a stock 73 d.shaft before switching.I,ve had no problems with u-joints running 10,s and 1.44-1.50 60fts.
tubtar
Well-Known Member
Yep.
Look at it this way..........do you plan to make the car go slower in the future ?
I know of exactly one person who has done this , and it made sense for him.
But we typically upgrade and upgrade until our wives or wallets tell us cut it out.
I'd go with 7290's at a minimum , but that being said , I went to 1350's and bit the bullet on my current deal because i knew I would have to do it once.
As stated above , don't skimp on the driveshaft either.........reputable company with a history in the performance world is what you are looking for.
I made that mistake back in the 80's and it got real expensive.
Ok so I have 7290's right now BUT they are the greasable kind which I'm told are weaker because of the grease run way's within them,I'm confused are the 1350's a spicer number or a mopar number????? Will i have to change the diff yoke and the trany yoke???? THanks Guy's Steve
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Yes you will have to swap yokes,as the 1350 is bigger than 7290/7260 yokes.Checkout Mancini,s Racing under driveline and look for driveshaft.Good luck.
moparmanestock
Well-Known Member
I'm running 3" steel sriveshaft with 1350 on rear for Dana 60. 7290 solid on front, only because 1350/904 yoke wasn't currently available, or I would have done that. I figure 1 medium expensive shaft is cheaper than 2 less expensive ones.
440dartsport
Well-Known Member
Steve, I wouldn't be afraid to run 7290's with the tires that you are running. I was running 7260's earlier this season but as you know, the diff yoke and rear joint came apart. I am now running a shortened shaft from a 70 Super Bee with Precision 7290 joint in front and a 7290/1350 conversion joint in the rear. If plans go right I will get a new shaft made with 1350 joints front and rear for next year.
440dartsport
Well-Known Member
Yea Yea. It's been a rough season between driveshafts and camshafts. LOL. I got some work cut out for me this winter! Time for a cage also...
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