uh oh..... set back. water in oil

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Felpro 1243 is for 318 small ports. Felpro 1213 is for 340-360 large ports. The Edelbrock intake is the large port, as it fits 318-240-360.
Should I use the 1243 gasket? or 1213? or it doesn't matter.

manifold was not re-torqued after run in.

Things seem to be making sense. Even though the engine was running well, I couldn't get any more than 15" of vacuum. cam isn't radical, just Sum-6901 cam kit. (vacuum leak as well.......)
 
I would pull timing cover since you are already torn down some and look at water ports. I just did timing chain on a 273,the timing cover had a pin hole causing the same issue coolant in the oil.
Ian
 
The cam gear bolt didn't undo & punch a hole through the timing cover that cam looks like it is pushed back & the lifters are running on the front edge of the lobe
 
Was the smoke out of both banks of the exhaust or just one? (Assuming you have dual exhausts) That is a lot of coolant that went in the oil so something let go for sure; not just a seep IMHO.

As for your flushing.....sounds like you're doing a good job. I am doing a similar thing on an Opel engine that got some coolant into it. What we did:
Poured alcohol (then diesel later) in the heads to clean them out. Flushed and ran the oil pump while slowly rotating the engine 2x by hand to get the passages as clean as possible like you are doing; did this for 1 91% alcohol flush (to absorb some of the water) and then 4 separate diesel flushes. The key is the change the flushing agent a lot IMHO, and diesel is a modest lubricant; it cam out cleaner each time. Then added that same cheapo Walmart SN oil with half a bottle of Rislone Oil Treatment to push up the ZDDP levels to around 1500 ppm (where you want it to be) and pumped it around the same way while turning the crank by hand. 10 minutes running with that 1st oil and changed the oil; that 1st change was really dirty and thin from getting out the diesel, but very little coolant was left in the engine by that point; it was mostly gunk from the used engine being cleansed with diesel. Waiting for the 2nd oil batch to come out after a few heat cycles, but it still looks clean after the first 5 minutes of running.

And when you get that 1st and 2nd oil changes out, wait overnight before you drain and let the first qt come out of the drain slowly so you can observe any separated water or coolant. Then let it set in a pan and put the last qt the bottom of the pan in a glass jar to let it separate for a couple of days; you will get some idea of how much coolant you are still getting out. (How well it separates depends on the oil....)

In your case, I'd pull all the lifters and tap them out is disassemble them. And take the rocker shafts off and flush them; they get very little oil in the priming process unless you park the crank at the right angles for a while, so your flushing will not likely clean the rocker system well.

Even with the intake gasket realization, I'd still pull the timing cover and investigate that.

Hope you get it!
 
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AUSA66 said:
The cam gear bolt didn't undo & punch a hole through the timing cover that cam looks like it is pushed back & the lifters are running on the front edge of the lobe
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That cam position does look a bit off in places, but cannot tell if it is due to the angle of the pix or what. Good observation IMHO.
 
No oil in coolant means very little at this point. it didnt overheat so no leaks in the combustion chamber.
 
I couldn't tell what side was smoking; it was running through a Y pipe.

Lifters are off center from the camshaft lobes to assist in lifter rotation by design

Cam bolt was torqued and lock-tite'd in place by me, I'd bet my life its not loose.

I'm going to bet on intake manifold leak at water passage. That would explain the vacuum leak, internal to the block valley. After getting only 15" and idle, I used propane to look for the leak externally. None found. The vacuum leak could have been to the valley side of the block. If coolant was also leaking near the same place - - coolant would be pulled into the cylinder as well and coolant into the oil.

I'm going to wait for my new head gaskets and 1213 composite intake gaskets and bolt-er up. If I have the same problem.....it will sit until September when the kids are back and we will remove dismantle the engine on a stand.

All it will cost me is the gaskets and half a day. fingers crossed. Off for a few days, I'll get to it the week of the nineth.
 
Throw a bit of rtv around the water ports and the ports. A very thin coat, never had a vacuum or coolant leak at the manifold.
 
UPDATE: its all back together with the good Felpro head gaskets and the thicker, composite intake gaskets. As of the last 30 min. run time, no oil/water issues!

The original problem must have been intake leak between the alum. intake and stock iron head, when using the steel gasket - even with some sealer around the port.... live and learn.
 
looks like an engine I did last year, new edelbrock heads and new intake . Ended up using two sets of intake gaskets stacked and it fixed the problem
 
GEO said:
looks like an engine I did last year, new edelbrock heads and new intake . Ended up using two sets of intake gaskets stacked and it fixed the problem
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In the day...that's what the race cats did, id swear it was even mentioned in catalogs along with the manifold spacers with b/rb engines.
It's always good practice to glue them together 1st with some permatack or gaskacinch.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
In the day...that's what the race cats did, id swear it was even mentioned in catalogs along with the manifold spacers with b/rb engines.
It's always good practice to glue them together 1st with some permatack or gaskacinch.
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I sealed the water ports together with the right stuff on the gaskets and on the intake and heads too
 
MopaR&D said:
There's your problem, aluminum intakes don't work with stamped sheetmetal gaskets, they must be fiber. Metal gaskets are for iron intakes on iron heads only. The intake gaskets need to be designed to handle the different heat expansion rates of iron vs aluminum.
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What was the outcome and what did you find as the issue? I just completed a complete rebuild and am having the same issue but I am using the original iron intake. After the initial start up and only let engine run for 5 or 6 minutes checked oil and massive amount of water in oil. I currently have again taken the intake, timing cover and heads off and can find no notable issue at this point. Suggestions, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Timing cover leak never crossed my mind, but that is still on engine and problem may have not been discovered yet.
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I have had a timing cover leak internally before spraying water inside the cover and down into the oil pan.
 
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