ultimate street 318

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Rumblefish,which book do you have? I have Corky Bells book "Maximum Boost" and find it to be understandable while being very thourough. I hear ya on putting it down.Need time to absorb that kind of info,lol!
 
moper said:
Then I'd go with a performance rebuild, hypereutecti pistons, internal balance it. Stock rods with good bolts. Id use the LA-X magnums (uses std LA rockers and intakes) and a solid flat tappet around 230°@.050 and a static compression around 10:1. An RPM and Edelbrock Thunder AVS 650, small tube headers. That's what I'd do.
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I have a hydraulic cam with 230@ 50 just laying around for you when ever you decide to really get into that motor. And Ill vouch for those new Magnum heads I like them
 
rumblefish360 said:
That's my man! LOL You make me laff. (In a good way of course.)

SCDE, he's a big BIG fan of strokin. That's why I made the comment.
I have a book on charging engines. Didn't finish it up, it was getting over my head at the time. I'd probably have a better grasp now, but the pockets are empty, (Waaaaa!) so I leave it be for now. :toothy10:
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hehehe...I guess so seeing as his sig is "stroked 340". :)

Boost is a science project all it's own. And just when you think you got a good grasp on it, you figure something else out! :-D We're always learning new things which keeps us ahead of the curve. We gotta make sure we always have the answer for our customers.
Yeah, I hear ya....I couldn't afford to build a car if we didn't do it for a living. My only saving grace is Scott's talents and abililities and the tools we have access to...we don't pay much less for the parts than we sell 'em for...and that adds up fast for sure!
 
Seems the hardest part of DIY turboing a motor is "sneakin " up on the tune by reading, asking questions, and absolutely taking your time.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I would do a couple of things..

1. would be a 11.1 comp w5 headed solid roller setup with 5 speed rev'n 7800-8rpm w/4.30 gears

2. would be a 390 11.1 comp w2 headed solid roller with 5 speed rev'n 7200rpm.w/3.73 gears

thats if I had money to play around.

whats your idea of street though?
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#1 there sounds like alot of fun but that would probably get on the edge of how much rpm can be used in a safe way without sacrificing valvetrainstability with a 59degre motor, some years ago i just once hit over 8000rpms with a solidrollercamed 340 (that i shifted at 7500rpm all the time for a longtime) and it just cost me one pushrod (3/8" chromemolly pushrod), and im glad that pushrod just got slightly bent and nothing more cause that would have been a total disaster probably blowing the entire motor.

im very partial on my take on an ultimate street318 but i would build a rollercamed 7000+rpm motor with a twinscrew, thats what im doing right now for myself but based on a 340, almost wish i was building a 318 instead with the same parts,just to anoy the ford,chevy and bigblock moparguys:toothy10:
 
Im doing pretty close to the same thing. 318 in a 73 swinger.

I went with this build.. We'll see how it turns out!

Forged aluminum MP flat tops (should be just under 10:1)
360 heads ported and pollished
Isky cam .485 lift 280 dur. 232 @ 50, 108 overlap
MP single plane intake
Doug's headers
Going to use 625 or 650 cfm car, not sure yet.


has anyone used this cam in their small block??

Cameron
 
I'd use the 650 cfm carb and that cam will have a radical idle. I have not used an Isky before. Isky makes several grinds with similar specs.
 
Stock motor with 360 heads forged pistons. Upgraded cam with smooth idle. B&M mini blower with 780 or 850 carb. Dougs headers and quiet turbo muflers. Stock sounding set up with well over 400 HP and good low end. Easier to set up then a blow through turbo set up and blower is easy to remove and re use or re sell later.
 
stroker mike said:
If you could build a 318 for the street, using anything you wanted, what would you do? I have a mountain of parts and plenty of time, but I keep leaning back on what I've done before. I want to do something really cool with one of these teens I got laying around, and don't want to do the same old. What would you build out of a 318 if there were no limits?
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I would build a 318 with 302 heads, the 340 MP cam forged pistons, H beam rods an Edelbrock air gap intake, a tuned 750 Vacuum secondary and a 300 horse plate shot. Everytime I got ready to mash the button I'd say "watch this ****"
 
StrokerScamp said:
I would build a 318 with 302 heads, the 340 MP cam forged pistons, H beam rods an Edelbrock air gap intake, a tuned 750 Vacuum secondary and a 300 horse plate shot. Everytime I got ready to mash the button I'd say "watch this ****"
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300 shot huh...you'd be saying "watch this"
once before it went BOOM!!!....:-D
 
stroked 340 said:
300 shot huh...you'd be saying "watch this"
once before it went BOOM!!!....:-D
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Wanna bet? Them Rustang boys do it to STOCK bottom end 302s, I promise you a 318 would LAST.
 
318; first find a 318-3 truck crank (forged and tougher than a 340 steel crank). Next find a 67 or 68 block with thick cylinders. (.060 -.070 overbore) Some quality aluminum rods and custom pistons (forged Probe would work) all light weight. Bolt on some race W-2 heads that have been ported (by someone who knows what they are doing) Id opt for the billet main caps with the splayed outer bolts. then a complete roller valve train [jessel?] (solid roller). "Rock the block" up to the freeze plugs. full oiling mods, windage tray etc. Build a custom intake and use a f.a.s.t. fuel injection with twin turbos. (I could go on but ill stop here)
 
has anbody heard of the "Indy" 318. (usac IIRC) that was a sweet looking 318!
 
omahamoparguy said:
318; first find a 318-3 truck crank (forged and tougher than a 340 steel crank).
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Naaaa, a standard forged crank is capable of alot of power. No need to find a special crank that is not any better than the rest.

Next find a 67 or 68 block with thick cylinders. (.060 -.070 overbore)
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While thicker is better, some newer blocks have been found to be as thick, if not thicker. Sonic check it!

Bolt on some race W-2 heads that have been ported (by someone who knows what they are doing)
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W2's for a street 318? Whew!

Id opt for the billet main caps with the splayed outer bolts. then a complete roller valve train [jessel?] (solid roller). "Rock the block" up to the freeze plugs. full oiling mods, windage tray etc. Build a custom intake and use a f.a.s.t. fuel injection with twin turbos. (I could go on but ill stop here)
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LOL, the more I read this, the more I say 4 inch stroke (or more) in a 4.1 bore (Or more) and lets go budddy!!!!!
 
StrokerScamp said:
Wanna bet? Them Rustang boys do it to STOCK bottom end 302s, I promise you a 318 would LAST.
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Really how long will it last 2 passes..hot rod magazine when that built that (so-called)400 h.p. 318,that the 318 crowd rave's about blew it up after they put a 125 h.p. shot on it...i believe it lasted 2 passes..:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:

And those 302 bottom-ends can take a hell of a beating...
 
Splayed bolt main caps aren't good on a stock LA block. Not enough material in the areas the bolts go and it weakens the block webbing. There's no reason to put 4 bolt caps on a stock block SB mopar unless you plan on 600+ HP. If you are in that hp arena... a different block would be a better choice.

Hard blocking is a good idea for a 550+ hp deal.
 
Find a cheap used 318, get some 360 heads unported, and put a big *** turbo on it. Downfall?... When the motor kicks the can gotta spend 300$ for another used one.
 
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