Under dash MC pedal set

-
N

notenoughcash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
865
Reaction score
8
Location
TX
O.K., haven't even finished the car yet and am already hating what it's gonna take for valve train maintenance given how tight the drivers side VC is to the brake master cylinder. Pretty much will need to remove the brake MC and maybe the clutch MC to get the VC off.

Honestly don't know why the hell I didn't consider doing something about this until now but...:banghead:, felling kinda stupid looking at this now.

So, has anyone used something like this:
http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalProd.aspx?itemno=340-11299

Other than the obvious having to route brake lines out thru the firewall and some fab work, is there any reason this would be a bad idea ? Solid or stainless braided -3 for the thru lines ?

This would free up a ton of space, see pic for just how tight it is, two VC bolts are literally impossible to get to, let alone remove

20131223_104928.jpg


Thankfully nothing leaks right now and the valves are in adjustment so this will not be done immediately but it's time to plan.
 
Nice pedals but the first problem I see is there going to turn the Master Cylinder 180 degrees. good for your valve cover....bad for your gauges. access for fluid will be difficult. A hemi offset adapter wont give you enough clearance ?
 

Attachments

  • AR060.jpg
    30.9 KB · Views: 247
Hrrmmm...pretty sure that's already in use. Initially the MC didn't clear at all, I remember ordering an adapter to serve as both 4-->2 bolt and get clearance, now I need to did thru the pile of invoices....that's gonna be fun tomorrow

<edit> Adapter already in use, found early pic

DART_DEC_15_201206.jpg


I'll need to crawl up under the dash Tuesday and see what kind of room I don't have. If that fails, I may consider switching to flexible -3AN lines from MC to prop valve to make moving whats there easier
 
notenoughcash said:
Hrrmmm...pretty sure that's already in use. Initially the MC didn't clear at all, I remember ordering an adapter to serve as both 4-->2 bolt and get clearance, now I need to did thru the pile of invoices....that's gonna be fun tomorrow

<edit> Adapter already in use, found early pic

DART_DEC_15_201206.jpg


I'll need to crawl up under the dash Tuesday and see what kind of room I don't have. If that fails, I may consider switching to flexible -3AN lines from MC to prop valve to make moving whats there easier
Click to expand...

I've seen that solution used before and never heard anything negative about the results, so that might be the way to go.
 
If you go with the remote mount reservoirs you could put them in the engine bay and route the hoses thru the firewall.

Brake balance bars aren't for sissys. They cause more trouble in set-up and adjustment than do proportioning valves by a large margin.

There are also bell-cranks in OE use that turn the MC to one side or the other. Early Broncos with power brakes turn them ~30° to the left. I seem to recall that Dodge vans in the 70's used one that turned the MC 90° to the right, but perhaps it could be flipped over to turn it to the left? Or could build your own if you have that level a fab skills available. Most all of these are because of booster clearance issues, but that doesn't mean that you couldn't use them for manual brakes.

Early Bronco part, can buy it new from most of the EB vendors like BC Bronco's, Duff's, Tom's Bronco Parts and the Bronco Graveyard:
Buckshot-BrakeBooster011.JPG


brake_booster_03.jpg


brake_booster_05.jpg


In searching for pics of the Dodge van part I found a not terribly good pic on ebay of a bracket that moves the MC up:
myUdih6uFS6TqrsEbeivmLg.jpg


Custom fab'd bell-crank from the H.A.M.B., the single shear mounting for the link isn't a great plan:


IMG_20120810_200537.jpg


Looking for further for pics of the van part I found that Kugel makes this:
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_5
brakesys90_508.jpg


Found this for a GM RV chassis, so potentially all Class A GM motorhome chassis are donors:
0900c15280072cde.gif
 
Have you actually tried to remove the VC? try taking out the bolts and rolling the VC towards the carb while lifting. I had the same problem and just added a couple washers to angle the MC away slightly, and was able to roll the VC off the engine.
 
It's an uphill battle I'm not likely to win, but I see "DOT Approved" used a lot and it's incorrect.

FWIW the DOT doesn't approve anything. "DOT Approved" is marketing-speak and nothing more. "DOT Compliant" means that the mfg has done the testing to insure that their hoses won't land them in court should a brakes related accident happen and by claiming DOT compliance they're presumably maintaining the QA/QC paper trail to prove that their product hasn't strayed from the way that those tested were mfg'd as well as continuing to spot check production parts.

"TUV Approved" does means something. It means that the German Gov't has tested those hoses for compliance with the rules that govern flexible brake hoses and they passed. Ironically the TUV's brake hose stds are the same as the DOT's, so "TUV Approved" automatically means that they're DOT compliant.

All of that said, I make my own flex hoses from hose ends and braided SS/Teflon hose. I buy all of my parts and pieces from Orme Bros. (<- Link) Could probably buy it for less somewhere else, but those guys specialize in race car plumbing and when you cal them and say "I need a fitting to go in the *** of an QQQ that adapts to -3AN" they KNOW what that fitting is and very likely have it in stock.
 
Good point on the "approved" part, I'll get in touch with them Monday and actually ask them about this (this is in the FAQ -- http://www.spieglerusa.com/blog/cat...e-lines/?SID=629cdf113de982293ed7e3f3d7d56b52 but used the approved word). Not that I'm paranoid or anything but it's piece of mind if I'm gonna pay for a custom set. We all know about "***"uming anything :)

Regardless, brake lines are not something I'd be comfortable doing solo, I already sent email to Orme, heard nothing but good about them.

Thanks for the info!
 
From personal experience calling Orme works better.

Not uncommon to see a vendor get "DOT approved" wrong too. That's why I figure its an uphill battle that I'm not likely to win.

I got into assembling brake hoses myself because I go places rather remote off pavement. Having a failed brake hose would be a real bummer at best in one of those places. So now I order one extra of each fitting and hose end type and enough extra hose to make the longest those on the vehicle. These all go in sealed bag and live in the truck.

They're not at all hard to make except for your finger tips. You'll puncture those a bit. I hear you though, if you're not comfortable with building them then brakes is not the place to experiment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top