Upper Control Arm bolt

-
nodemon

nodemon

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
746
Location
St.Louis
I have an upper control arm bolt that refuses to come out. I have soaked with PB Blaster for several days, put heat to it and beat it with a 2lb sledge...WON'T BUDGE..!!
Don't think I have enough room to cut it out...maybe with the right tool...but limited space..
 
MoparLeo said:
Frozen ? Will not turn ? Picture.
Click to expand...
I'm guessing rust welded..?
20240607_153241.jpg
 
So you got the nut off but the rest of the bolt wont come out of the bushing sleeve ?
Disconnect upper ball joint from spindle so you have full range of motion on the upper control arm. This will give you more room to work.
May be time for a torch to burn the bushing out and loosen the rust
Remove brake line and put clay or some type of heat barrier behind the eccentric bolts to prevent paint burn.
 
Last edited:
MoparLeo said:
So you got the nut off but the rest of the bolt wont come out of the bushing sleeve ?
Click to expand...
Yep.. The other side, the bolt snapped off, but I was able to work the bolt out.
 
Ya, in this case "HEAT" is going to be your friend. Any of your car buddies have a portable oxy-acetylene torch set, that they can bring over?
Or how about a grinder with a cut off wheel.
Something like what i use around here, when things get stubborn.

TORCH SET 001 (Small).JPG


Grinder 001 (Small).JPG
 
Last edited:
MoparLeo said:
So you got the nut off but the rest of the bolt wont come out of the bushing sleeve ?
Disconnect upper ball joint from spindle so you have full range of motion on the upper control arm. This will give you more room to work.
May be time for a torch to burn the bushing out and loosen the rust
Remove brake line and put clay or some type of heat barrier behind the eccentric bolts to prevent paint burn.
Click to expand...
It's disconnected from spindle.
I don't have a "real" torch, just a propane one. I've held the flame to it for long periods of time and beat on it while applying heat. I guess I'll just keep going at it that way. I've had some stubborn rust welded nuts and bolts in the past, but this is ridiculous. I might try getting my angle grinder in there with a cutting wheel..If nothing else, maybe cut in enough in a few places to weaken it.
 
nodemon said:
It's disconnected from spindle.
I don't have a "real" torch, just a propane one. I've held the flame to it for long periods of time and beat on it while applying heat. I guess I'll just keep going at it that way. I've had some stubborn rust welded nuts and bolts in the past, but this is ridiculous. I might try getting my angle grinder in there with a cutting wheel..If nothing else, maybe cut in enough in a few places to weaken it.
Click to expand...
Does the bolt turn within the bushing? If so, I would put an air ratchet on the bolt and simultaneously take your 2lb sledge and bang away. If you need a second person, I'm in the area.
 
DartManPlum340 said:
Does the bolt turn within the bushing? If so, I would put an air ratchet on the bolt and simultaneously take your 2lb sledge and bang away. If you need a second person, I'm in the area.
Click to expand...
I've got narrowed down to the inner sleeve.. The bushing will turn independently, but the inner sleeve won't.
 
Last edited:
in a similar situation i welded a piece of angle iron to the head of the bolt so i was able to get some swing on it and drive it out from that side.
 
I wouldn't pound it......You may bend the mounting tabs on the frame.

IIRC, I used a sawsall on both sides of the bushing between the mounting tabs and the bushing and removed the control arm once both sides were cut. Worked the pieces out once the control arm was out.
 
Can you get a shallow 1/2" drive impact socket on the bolt head & work it back & forth a bit at a time with a breaker bar to free it up?
 
Good strong air chisel with a punch attachment.
 
niceolddart said:
Can you get a shallow 1/2" drive impact socket on the bolt head & work it back & forth a bit at a time with a breaker bar to free it up?
Click to expand...
The bolt spins freely... It's "stuck" to the inner part of the bushing not allowing it to back out. I've cut one side of the bushing and bolt,but not enough room to cut the other side.. I hate to do it, but I may just have to cut the control arm.
 
nodemon said:
The bolt spins freely... It's "stuck" to the inner part of the bushing not allowing it to back out. I've cut one side of the bushing and bolt,but not enough room to cut the other side.. I hate to do it, but I may just have to cut the control arm.
Click to expand...
YIKES! Well, someone here probably has a control arm & bolt assemblies for you, if you have to go that route. The car doesn't look rusty. I guess water worked its way in there. Could have been a worse, way more costly problem too, just remember that before you start cursin'. :lol:
 
Tried to get a set of control arms from the junkyard a few years ago. Bolt appeared rusted to the inner sleave of the the control arm bushing. I'm thinking that one of those oscilating saws are thin enough and controlable to cut through the bolt ans bushing with out causing too much damage around the frame rail mounts.
 
CFD244 said:
I wouldn't pound it......You may bend the mounting tabs on the frame.

IIRC, I used a sawsall on both sides of the bushing between the mounting tabs and the bushing and removed the control arm once both sides were cut. Worked the pieces out once the control arm was out.
Click to expand...
I thought about a Sawzall, but thinking not enough room, at least with the one I have.
 
niceolddart said:
YIKES! Well, someone here probably has a control arm & bolt assemblies for you, if you have to go that route. The car doesn't look rusty. I guess water worked its way in there. Could have been a worse, way more costly problem too, just remember that before you start cursin'. :lol:
Click to expand...
Luckily, I purchased a pair of arms some time ago and had the bushings and ball joint installed.. Same with lower. I figured that way it would be an easy in and out job with no down time getting joints and bushings installed.. As usual, my "easy" quick job turned into a PITA...lol
 
IMG_8794.jpeg


The mention of an oscillating saw is a good suggestion. I have a Milwaukee and love it.
 
nodemon said:
That's exactly what I ended up using, my Milwaukee oscillating...took 3 carbide blades but did the job. This front suspension stuff SUCKS..lol
Click to expand...
It's heavy, time consuming work, for sure. Makes me wish I had gotten into another end of it, as suspension and alignment work has made me at least 10 years older than I really am, maybe more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top