Upper control arm replacement

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It's turning out to be more then what I expected I have to replace this too

IMG_20240611_151041.jpg
 
So next side I should start with the nut on the ball joint 1st , I might need to by that tool because the fork ain't doing it control arm still on the spindle
 
504DusterIR said:
So next side I should start with the nut on the ball joint 1st , I might need to by that tool because the fork ain't doing it control arm still on the spindle
Click to expand...
I use a good ball peen hammer against the spindle (or drag link) and whack the daylights out of that with a dead blow hammer, steel to steel. When I'm about to throw the hammer across the room, it typically pops off.

The pickle fork is going to rip up the dust boots and you can tear them up with a hammer too, but if you're not reusing them that's not a problem. When I have to break down and use a pickle fork, I turn to the one that attaches to my air hammer. BRRRRRRP
 
I'm not reusing the ball joints there new one in the control arms I got I been whacking the **** out of the spindle but to be honest all I have is a regular long handle hammer I might be able to get a dead blow from work , how long it usually take to do this job, everybody? ..I been at it for 3 hours
 
504DusterIR said:
It's turning out to be more then what I expected I have to replace this too

View attachment 1716261247
Click to expand...
*sad trombone*

that's the way of the (mopar) world sometimes.

also, if the LBJ is that roached, chances are your lower control arm bushings are waxed *** too. along with everything else.

are you in for a full front end rebuild?

*shakes magic 8 ball*

"you may rely on it"
 
504DusterIR said:
I'm not reusing the ball joints there new one in the control arms I got I been whacking the **** out of the spindle but to be honest all I have is a regular long handle hammer I might be able to get a dead blow from work , how long it usually take to do this job, everybody? ..I been at it for 3 hours
Click to expand...
considering this is your first time doing this, and you don't have the proper tools? that seems about right.

if it's your first go around, R&R'ing a set of UCA's is a solid day long job.
 
junkyardhero said:
*sad trombone*

that's the way of the (mopar) world sometimes.

also, if the LBJ is that roached, chances are your lower control arm bushings are waxed *** too. along with everything else.

are you in for a full front end rebuild?

*shakes magic 8 ball*

"you may rely on it"
Click to expand...
I went to go get an alignment an they told me that I need to replace the upper control arms because of not it will keep getting out of alignment they said everything else was, an if I replace upper control arms with in 90 days they would give me a free alignment, an the idler arm has play in it I do have new tie rods as well, it just trying to get the joints off of every part is being a hassle I do have this part ( lower ball joint ?) which I need to replace on the side I was working on because i guess the wheigh of the spindle an rotor an it being sloched down an me beating the heck out the spindle an fork ripped it open ,only part that i got free with ease was the tie rod

IMG_20240611_155924.jpg
 
junkyardhero said:
considering this is your first time doing this, and you don't have the proper tools? that seems about right.

if it's your first go around, R&R'ing a set of UCA's is a solid day long job.
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It is my 1st time doing this , I guess I will buy that tool everybody keeps posting, looks like a cloths pin or bag clip with a screw bolt running thru it, I'm guessing you put one end in between the joint an the other end at the bolt of ball joint bolt an torque it done an it pops it off, Since I put the newer engine in its been my daily driver
 
Dana67Dart said:
If you support the lower control arm no need to release the torsion bar.


Remove the ball joint nut

Do not use a pickle fork.

Use one of theseView attachment 1716261180

Apply pressure then a light tap to the side spindle.

It should pop right out.

Mark the upper bolts washers so you can put it back in about the same location

Then remove the upper bolts
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I think I'm going to go buy one the fork ain't do nothing
 
IMHO

The beat the **** out of it method is a bad idea.

I have seen people beat the spindle at the ball joint toll it is deformed.

Not the way to do it

Pickle forks are just plain bad news.

The tool abblies pressure up on the ball joint stud and then a fairly light shock on the side of the spindle will normally cause it to pop off.

The FSM has a tool that pressed between the lower and upper ball joint nuts. The to above works in a similar fashion but only puts pressure on the ball joint stud in question.

One thing that might help is raising the lower control arm up so the upper is more level.

Giver.s you more room to work
 
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i would *strongly* advise you to get a hold of a factory service manual and review it. besides the diagrams and working practices it also has the torque specs for reassembly.

cruise on over to mymopar.com and download one for what you're working on.

points of interest:
>unload the torsion bars when working on front suspension. loaded it's a spring waiting to go off and that's just a recipe for disaster. loosen the lower control arm pin nuts to do so otherwise you'll damage the lower control arm bushing

>the lower ball joint (the new one you posted up) is specific side to side. make sure you have the right one.

>harbor freight sells that tool. it's... uh. well, it works. i broke the hinge pin pretty much immediately. put a towel over it so if it lets go some part of it doesn't hit you in the dick or take your eye out.

>the lower ball joint is a *very* tight fit and it takes tremendous pressure to free it. know that going in and act accordingly.

>crack balljoints while the component is still attached to the car. otherwise you'll just wind up chasing the part all over the shop floor and getting frustrated.

>hammers. you need a BFH. at least 3lb. 5 is even better.
 
Just got this at the store hopefully it helps and works if not I'm done for the day until next day off next week
 
Ok I got the upper control arm out , Finally which I had that tool to start with , hopefully next side will be easier
 
I know 5 hours into it , I take it my lower control arm bushing is gone

IMG_20240611_172730.jpg
 
504DusterIR said:
It is my 1st time doing this , I guess I will buy that tool everybody keeps posting, looks like a cloths pin or bag clip with a screw bolt running thru it, I'm guessing you put one end in between the joint an the other end at the bolt of ball joint bolt an torque it done an it pops it off, Since I put the newer engine in its been my daily driver
Click to expand...
kind of. you torque down on it to preload it, then strike the side of the spindle with a ball peen handle and it usually pops. loosen the nut but keep it on, because it can pop somewhat violently, and watch your toes if the tool goes flying....
 
that's your lower ball joint. and yeah, that looks wasted from here.

pro tip: take off the rotor and make your life easier, if not lighter at least.
 
From way back, if you have access, you could loosen the nut, back up one side with a heavy object, smack the opposite side with a ball peen a few times..........
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I notice neither one of my lower control arms have the rubber block piece on it , the rubber stop , did some control arms come like that or are mines missing
 
504DusterIR said:
I notice neither one of my lower control arms have the rubber block piece on it , the rubber stop , did some control arms come like that or are mines missing
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the triangular lower control arm bumper?

they rot and fall off occasionally. or people take them off. they are important and should be in place.
 
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