Upper control arm replacement

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Yea those an the top one are no good just order some an new struts , I Guess I'm rebuilding my front suspension
 
Ok there is a plate with a bolt head in the middle where the stopper would be an from underneath i can feel the bolt stud
 
Photos from the web

Where the stops should be.
Down stop limits suspension going to full droop (car body moving up)
Up stop limits suspension going to full rise (car body moving down)
1718204025950.png


Down stop bolts to the bracket on the frame
1718204113404.png


up stop bolts to the lower control arm
1718204152442.png
 
Dana67Dart said:
Photos from the web

Where the stops should be.
Down stop limits suspension going to full droop (car body moving up)
Up stop limits suspension going to full rise (car body moving down)
View attachment 1716261597

Down stop bolts to the bracket on the frame
View attachment 1716261599

up stop bolts to the lower control arm
View attachment 1716261600
Click to expand...
I have those on the way along with new front struts, to take the struts off loosen them from the top an the bolt that connects them to the lower control arm
Daves69 said:
:thumbsup:
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Nice!!!
 
504DusterIR said:
to take the struts off loosen them from the top an the bolt that connects them to the lower control arm
Click to expand...
If you haven't already, go to mymopar.com and download your car (or one close to it) factory service manual.

Its free and will save you a ton of unhappyness.

Also Google "Chrysler master tech videos"

Corny as can be but VERY informative.
 
Some things I would like to point out.

1. The members helping the OP are doing a good job and deserve two thumbs up.

2. This is a thread for the suspension components in the Small Block Mopar Engines section.

3. What now makes this funny is that a mod has not noticed and moved the thread yet and it's 3 pages long now, lol.
 
Last edited:
Ant said:
This is a thread for the suspension components in the Small Block Moper Engines section.

3. What now makes this funny is that a mod has not noticed and moved the thread yet and it's 3 pages long now, lol
Click to expand...
Just proves my assertion that the categories are meaningless!

They don't make the search engine any better.
 
Update for those who have helped me ,I got the upper control arm an lower bushing in an a new shock ,havent connected the spindel to the upper arm

IMG_20240615_095542.jpg


IMG_20240615_095537.jpg
 
Uncle Bob said:
I use a good ball peen hammer against the spindle (or drag link) and whack the daylights out of that with a dead blow hammer, steel to steel. When I'm about to throw the hammer across the room, it typically pops off.

The pickle fork is going to rip up the dust boots and you can tear them up with a hammer too, but if you're not reusing them that's not a problem. When I have to break down and use a pickle fork, I turn to the one that attaches to my air hammer. BRRRRRRP
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Many ways of removing ball joints. I like to use a body shim and place it on the rubber grease cup (to save the cup) and place the tuning fork between the shim and spindle, that way not to tear the cup. Give a couple whacks and it should separate. As some here said, loosen the nut enough so to keep everything from flying or dropping. Install everything loose before final tightening or torquing.
 
The cam bolts for the upper arm goes in one way? Because of that big round piece?
 
I'll take a picture of them , they came with the ball joint an boot already installed,
 
junkyardhero said:
yes. 1000% grease them bad boys up
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Alright YES my driver side it about done just need to replace one of the tie rod ends that hook to the lower ball joint an then everything on driver side will be done besides putting the rotor back on an the brake calipers
 
brentwasham said:
Check out this video on a Barracuda:
Click to expand...

I had some trouble,but it was nothing like this ,Sheeeshhh ,I think the passenger side is going to be easier since I have a little more understanding an good advance from everyone here
 
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