US Car Tool A518 Cross member

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Sorry Matt, but that just ain't so. On my 42RH that is the stock pan and the specific one shown here is a stock Dorman replacement pan (with the plug relocated). Here's a shot of the stuff hanging out of the bottom of my trans with no pan.

View attachment 1716235884
Well it's been a long time since I did all these modifications to fit this in the 69 coupe. I can see how the pan hangs lower. I bought a deep sump heavy gage steel pan with drain plug off a jeep site for an A904. I have not messed with the car in almost 3 years. Hearts not in it I suppose. Damn chronic depression issues. I need to go out there with a tape measure and look.
 
I hope that this helps - I put a 42 RH in my Dart and the trans fit in the stock location, front to back. The interference that I had to deal with was the removal of most of the crossmember hoop around the trans tunnel. It is why the USCT piece is so heavy - to restore the strength of the frame member that carries the torsion bars. Depending on the year of your C-body, it might be made like this from the factory - no hoop and a heavier removable piece that carries the torque of the torsion bars - I know that our 72 Town and Country race car is built like that. The result is that you have to back off the torsion bars to remove the trans - if you don't the torsion bars will bend the cross member down to the middle. This also means some really beefy metal for the piece that you fabricate.

The big deal with up and down positioning is the trans pan that is substantially lower that a stock 727 or even most deep 727 pans. I ended up with a hole punched in mpan and resolved the issue by getting an off road 4x4 pan shield for the trans - I am sure that they make ones for 46 RH. If you need the company send a pm and I'll dig it out for you.y 42RH View attachment 1716234506View attachment 1716234507
Was that an offroad jeep pan you put on? I like the welded on bash plate it has on it to protect it.
 
It's just the Dorman replacement pan for a 42RH (super inexpensive). The problem is all the stock and stock type pans have the plug on the bottom of the pan. It sticks down and one snag and you have a hole or at least a leak. I didn't need that in the middle of nowhere on Rt 66. The plate was designed for a Dakota 4WD truck, but it worked fine for me. It hit twice on our long road trip - a ridiculously high speed bump in a parking lot and a big piece of dropped debris on an interstate ( I was going 80 when the truck in front of me cleared it and there I was!) In both cases I'm confident it saved the pan.
 
Do you have a PN for that pan w skidplate on it? I cannot seem to find that anywhere online. They only show a heavy gage steel pan. If I need to the heavy gage pan I have, I can make a skid plate for it and weld it on.
 
Pan is from Dorman part #265-839 currently available from Amazon for $32.99 !!! It's a good high quality pan, but for an A-body, get a cheap kit and move the plug to the side of the pan. If you use the Taboo Customs skid you have to be sure that it is not blocked by the side plates.
 
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Source for the skid plate is Taboo Customs, part# P0780 Current price $85 from the fabricator. It bolts over the pan rail using provided longer bolts.
 
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