US Car Tool Torque Boxes and Sub Frame Connectors Install

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Previous people have provided a wealth of information already, so here are a few shots of my '68 FS FB frame rails with fuel lines installed. I ordered Fine Lines, but the frame rails were in the way. Dave at Cars Remember When (Littleton, CO) modified the lines and cut access holes in the frame rails.
I also added a shot of the car as it sits now. Waiting for the headliner to be installed, then wind shield/rear window and interior, then drive it!

Right Front Torque Box.jpg


Left Frame Rail Looking Forward.jpg


Left Frame Rail Fuel Lines.jpg


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Looks great! I usually cut rubber hose length wise to cover lines going through metal to protect from chaffing.
 
I looked at my ‘65 Dart on the lift this week to see if I would need to cut holes or re-route anything if I installed the a set of connectors. On my car it looks like everything might clear. If not, I plan to cut them prior to installation. I’d like to be able to angle the holes to match the original routing of emergency brake cables and fuel lines, and possibly line the holes with tubing. A final step would be to wrap them with something like fuel line to avoid chafing. Thanks to everyone for their posts on this. I’ve learned a lot and gotten some really good information on suppliers and methods.
 
I used a lot of their parts when building my Duster. Nothing fits perfectly out of the box so there is a lot of time fitting parts and then you need to be careful with the stitch welding. But if you work at it a bit it all comes out really nice.

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Thanks everyone for all of the info and picture! On my dad's 68 Coronet we used the square tubing style so it was little different and that was year ago. I have the full core support and the inner fender braces and boxed shock towers as I'm going to be running coilovers in the front instead of torsion bars. Car is sitting on the wheels now and has no interior, or fuel system, so I should be good there. Here are a few pics of where I am at to this point.

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Great job. However, I was not impressed with their core stiffener. IMO, it is just tacked to the original support and doesn't really tie the front frame rails together any more than the original. I think to work properly, the original core support should be removed and the USCT should have longer tabs that can be welded to the frame rail, and not just to the oem support. I also didn't like the gap between the original, and the USCT......Seems like a lot of road crap would end up in there......I worked mine to get rid of the gap, but still wishing I went another route stiffening that area.

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I worked mine to get rid of the gap, but still wishing I went another route stiffening that area.

We went with a full Replacement Core Support from USCT like @AndyF above :thumbsup:
It's adjustable but ours is completely welded like Andy's. Adds some weight (It's thicker) but weight is not that much of a concern in our build. "¯\_(ツ)_/¯" Adds a little more clearance between the engine and core support compared to the stock core support too which is nice.
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We went with a full Replacement Core Support from USCT like @AndyF above :thumbsup:
It's adjustable but ours is completely welded like Andy's. Adds some weight (It's thicker) but weight is not that much of a concern in our build. "¯\_(ツ)_/¯" Adds a little more clearance between the engine and core support compared to the stock core support too which is nice.
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That's a nice set up for sure. I should have went that route.
 
Yeah the USCT core support allowed me to put a 26 inch radiator in the Duster and use a factory shroud and factory 7 blade clutch fan. I punched the big holes in my core support to reduce weight and to provide air flow for the battery as well as a place for wires to run.

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Wish I had this done when my car was at The Instillation Center. After it was painted, we discovered that what I thought was the original core support was actually rewelded in 3/8" further rearward. This took up needed space between the fan and the radiator making it necessary to go to a dual electric fan assembly where the offset allowed the WP snout to fit without touching the radiator core.
I owned this car for 54 years and didn't realize the original owner smacked it in the front so hard that even the radiator core suppor was replaced. But that explains why there was welding on the front frame rail too. At least the work lasted 54 more years and now is mostly corrected.
 
Yeah the USCT core support allowed me to put a 26 inch radiator in the Duster and use a factory shroud and factory 7 blade clutch fan. I punched the big holes in my core support to reduce weight and to provide air flow for the battery as well as a place for wires to run.
Very nice sir!

Hole I cut to support the Cold Air Intake for the 6.1
Will be running dual electric fans with 26" Aluminum radiator.
We are relocating the battery to the trunk. CAI will occupy space where the battery would have been.
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