USCT inboard kit question

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MoparMike1974 said:
I have a lathe, can make up some bushings if needed. I have not test fit them yet. I plan on shimming as needed to remove as much slop as I can in the assembly.
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Good deal, I gave my old ones to @Rat Bastid since he has a lathe as well, for me it was mid summer already and I hit the easy button!.
 
mopowers said:
Man, that looks awesome! Do those springs have enough droop in them to pull the wheels/tires without having to unbolt either the front or rear spring hanger? That's the issue I'm running into with my 66 with the 315/60s.
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Me too!, it would probably be down another 1.5 inches if I had the room in the wheel tub. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the install but I moved my rear end back 1.5 inches which moved the leave springs mounting points back. To compensate we welded some small plates to level the frame rails out where it ties into the back then just set the sliders up according to the instructions on front to back placement. I made sure the sliders were inline to each spring and not off side to side and welded them in. It was pretty simple really and given the results I wouldn't hesitate to do it on any mopar build.
 
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72bluNblu said:
They work great on the street. I installed spring sliders on my Duster almost 8 years ago now. Mine aren't at the frame rails though, mine are set up a 1/2" inboard for my DoctorDiff spring offset kit. I just made a bracket so the modification is reversible
View attachment 1716066393

The slider improves the spring reaction, since it doesn't have to work through the resistance of the bushings. They also control the side to side flex of the springs a lot better than the shackle/bushing arrangement, which lets the spring flex around quite a bit, which translates into the axle shifting side to side that amount. They use an aluminum bushing and a bearing roller set up, which does occasionally make some noise when it works (they "click" some). But the noise isn't all that noticeable, I pretty much never hear it over my exhaust or stereo.

@younggun2.0 installed his spring sliders with a 3" relocation kit, he also raised them from the bottom of the frame to lower the car. This is his set up..

View attachment 1716066388

View attachment 1716066392

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lead69 said:
As @72bluNblu said they work great. I see quite a few street miles with full caltrac setup, inboarded springs, viking double adjustable shocks and 295 65 15 et street R's the car drives way better than stock and handles pretty dam well. A buddy got this pic down at rodrun last year in long beach wa where we do a lot of driving.

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thanks . was wondering about the side play...
 
-Boosted- said:
Yeah, I won't be notching the sub-frame. Ordering up the Calvert setup now and will weld it on. The subframe is already somewhat plated with the inboard kit installed..... lol
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The only think about welding them on is that if the track wears you'll have to grind the welds and repeat to replace it. If you made a plate with threaded inserts you could drop the whole slider if you needed to replace parts later. Probably not necessary for a lot of cars given the lack of mileage.

I wanted to be able to R&R mine if I needed to in the future. Given the bearing arrangement the wear on the slides should be minimal so it's probably overkill.
famous bob said:
thanks . was wondering about the side play...
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There still is some, but it's a lot less than the flex you'll get from the bushings on both ends of the shackle, especially since the shackle acts as a lever arm on the bushings when you side load the springs.
 
72bluNblu said:
They work great on the street. I installed spring sliders on my Duster almost 8 years ago now. Mine aren't at the frame rails though, mine are set up a 1/2" inboard for my DoctorDiff spring offset kit. I just made a bracket so the modification is reversible
View attachment 1716066393

The slider improves the spring reaction, since it doesn't have to work through the resistance of the bushings. They also control the side to side flex of the springs a lot better than the shackle/bushing arrangement, which lets the spring flex around quite a bit, which translates into the axle shifting side to side that amount. They use an aluminum bushing and a bearing roller set up, which does occasionally make some noise when it works (they "click" some). But the noise isn't all that noticeable, I pretty much never hear it over my exhaust or stereo.

@younggun2.0 installed his spring sliders with a 3" relocation kit, he also raised them from the bottom of the frame to lower the car. This is his set up..

View attachment 1716066388

View attachment 1716066392

View attachment 1716066391
Click to expand...
What a blast from the past! I will say that over 10yrs later they are still working great!
 
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