Using mustang rotors for 4.5" bc

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Hi. I was checking stuff at work today and noticed that 1983-94 ford ranger rotors also use the same inner and outer bearings. Napa # is 48-85865. Outside diameter is 10.29 on these rotors. I didn't have time to check the difference in the seals and also not sure if the inner bearing has to be cut in order to center the rotor in the caliper. This could be another option. I will try to look into this more tomorrow. Bobby

Ever look into this? My rotors are just floating loose in my shop. Im thinking of taking one into the local jobber,and get them to bring up a Ranger rotor. Then break out a digital caliper,and a camera.
 
I stopped by with my rotor. A quick inspection revealed the Ranger rotor is about 10 1/8 of an inch,about 1/2 inch smaller than the Dart one.
 
So I'm pretty new here and I know this is kind if old but why doesn't anyone use these? I found out in my car I have this as part of a kit from this place they sell along with the KH calipers. They're already machined and come standard slotted or drilled. They work perfect on my car. Maybe I'm missing something. This is just the slotted one but if you look at the application chart it's for our cars.
 

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Could you provide a link please?

Im thinking they aren't popular due to high cost(because SSBC is the source),but I couldn't click on anything in the image.Update; I went to their web sight,and those rotors are likely small bolt pattern. The reason for using mustang rotors is to gain the big bolt pattern,and thus access to better rim selection without having to replace most of your outer steering knuckle assembly.
 
Could you provide a link please?

Im thinking they aren't popular due to high cost(because SSBC is the source),but I couldn't click on anything in the image.Update; I went to their web sight,and those rotors are likely small bolt pattern. The reason for using mustang rotors is to gain the big bolt pattern,and thus access to better rim selection without having to replace most of your outer steering knuckle assembly.

yeah
 
Actually they sell the dual bolt pattern in the plain rotor even though it's not listed because it's what I have in my car. They have the slotted dual bolt pattern for just over 100 each so I'm assuming the plain would be under that. This is the 4.5" version I have in my 67 valiant. Might be worth it to give them a call.
 

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So I'm pretty new here and I know this is kind if old but why doesn't anyone use these? I found out in my car I have this as part of a kit from this place they sell along with the KH calipers. They're already machined and come standard slotted or drilled. They work perfect on my car. Maybe I'm missing something. This is just the slotted one but if you look at the application chart it's for our cars.

What you're missing is that this mod is intended for cars that already have the KH brakes and someone wants to change over to the 4.5" bolt pattern for cheap. Mustang rotors and machine shop labor cost me less than $150. Done. Buying a new SSBC brake kit to replace everything would cost nearly $1k, with no improvement in braking.

Some folks would rather spend $150 and do a little legwork, rather than drop a grand for what amounts to basically the same brakes. Make sense?
 
See that's what I'm trying to figure out. So you're saying you couldn't just pick up a set of their 4.5" rotors and slap them on the cars that already have KH calipers? Mine has the whole kit since mine didn't come with the KH calipers but I assumed you could just buy their rotors and slap them on if you did already have them.
 
See that's what I'm trying to figure out. So you're saying you couldn't just pick up a set of their 4.5" rotors and slap them on the cars that already have KH calipers? Mine has the whole kit since mine didn't come with the KH calipers but I assumed you could just buy their rotors and slap them on if you did already have them.

Ahh,theres the rub. You need their kit to make it all work.And that is not apparent on their web
sight.
 
I called SSBC after I saw this. I have KH disk on my '67 FB. The guy told me in order to use their rotor's I would have to change my spindle's out to 10" drum spindles. Then my disc brake caliper bracket's would no longer work. I would have to buy their's. You can still use your caliper. It create's a domino effect.
I think it's best to stick with longones idea. I just need to find a Machinist.
 
Looks like to get that caliper adaptor for 10" drum spindles you need to spend over $1100 for the entire kit.Lol...they dont list the adaptor at all.
 
I see there is a picture of the adaptor in their installation instructions. It's a really simple thing,easy to make.
 
Just finished doing the Mustang Hub/Rotor on my 71. Pretty straightforward, and everything went together just as explained throughout the thread.

Question for those who have done this mod, what rim/tire setup are you using, if you changed it after this mod. I'm wanting to go to 15x7 with 4.5 BS with a 225/60R15 tire. Of course, Wheels Vintique doesn't make this in 4.5 unless custom ordered. Keeping the steel/dog dish look.
 
are you measuring BS to the inside edge of rim or the tire bead? I had some 4inch BS wheels I tested, and there was more than 1/2 space left to upper balljoint. I also had some 5in BS wheels, and they definitely hit the upper balljoint when you tightened it down. That was just a test.

Checking BS from flange to inside end of wheel.
 
Just finished doing the Mustang Hub/Rotor on my 71. Pretty straightforward, and everything went together just as explained throughout the thread.

Question for those who have done this mod, what rim/tire setup are you using, if you changed it after this mod. I'm wanting to go to 15x7 with 4.5 BS with a 225/60R15 tire. Of course, Wheels Vintique doesn't make this in 4.5 unless custom ordered. Keeping the steel/dog dish look.
I did this conversion on my 67 Notch. I am using 15" X 6" X 4 1/2" stock rally wheels on my car on all 4 corners. I had a good machinist to help with the rotor work and put a factory stock sway bar to top it off.
 
are you measuring BS to the inside edge of rim or the tire bead? I had some 4inch BS wheels I tested, and there was more than 1/2 space left to upper balljoint. I also had some 5in BS wheels, and they definitely hit the upper balljoint when you tightened it down. That was just a test.

Checking BS from flange to inside end of wheel.

I rechecked it again, my measurements were wrong! Sorry about that's guys. I did have American racing outlaw rims with 4" bs on my car before with sbp and it did clear and when I took the pics the tire was up in the air which made it look like there wasn't that much clearance so I apologize for that!
 
Thank you all for this very informative thread (I've read through it all). I hope you don't mind my adding my 2 cents or perhaps redundant questions. I understand what the thread was initially about but many people have added or expounded on other possibilities, so I hope I'm not out of line.

I have a 69 Barracuda with manual drum brakes, and would like to upgrade to much better disk brakes. So, the question is, which avenue to pursue (at a reasonable cost). Since I do not have the factory KH system, I will need to invest in many new parts, and I'm aware of that. I'd like the best bang for the buck to significantly improve safety, because I suspect that eventually I will want to upgrade the factory 318 to considerably more HP (up to 500, for example). Thus I will need very good brakes. The stock brakes suck horribly for the stock 318. I might consider going with the stock 4-piston KH option but that would run me $1000. That would allow me to keep the stock small bolt pattern (14" wheels I have are small but I like the original turbine hubcaps on my car; nonetheless, I am seriously considering ditching all that to upgrade to big bolt pattern wheels so I can get better brakes). I do not believe that I need to keep the small bolt pattern, but if I go to the big bolt pattern, I will also have to modify the rear axle (drums) and get new wheels too. What are your opinions on maintaining the small bolt pattern and buying a stock set of KH brakes?

Since this thread has been primarily about changing to the larger bolt pattern, I'm almost convinced to do that because it will also afford me bigger and safer brakes. So is the newer (73-up) factory disk setup better than the older 4-piston KH setup? Some say the KH setup is better. If I have the stock manual drum setup all around, and have to make major investments in whatever I do, why wouldn't it be a simpler, more economical and better solution to go with the 73-up system? I have to change out so many parts anyway, why not go to the newer factory setup? What would y'all do or recommend in my situation? I understand that if I go with that 73-up system, I will also be able to add even larger rotors (11.75"?) at a later time and have the best stock system available, correct? This is the system I'm leaning towards, even if it means destroying the originality of my small bolt pattern wheels. I prefer the safety of much better disk brakes.

Thanks in advance for all the advice given so far, and all the future advice I will need to educate myself in the ways of Mopar (I'm a Mopar virgin; this is my first). :)
 
I agree with you about the cost of 4 piston KH brakes. I have a set I am restoring to first rate capacity,stainless pistons etc. I also have those 4.5" pattern brakes from an M body and spindles,and also there is my 10" manual drum spindles .I have 3 ways to go,and am not sure I would want to change the originality of my 4 piston KH,and affect their resale value,so I may sell them and go with one of the other 2 options,whichever is the most cost effective.
 
Is anyone doing the modified rotors yet besides the Ramman who wants stupid money and is difficult to deal with
 
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Hetman,

I haven't used them myself, but have seen the SSBC disc brake conversion for use on (I believe) the 10" drum brake spindle. They look like a quality product. IIRC, they can be had in either SBP or BBP configuration. If I had the money, I would consider them myself.

On the other hand, I've managed to scavange more than one set of the '73+ B/F/M/J/R spindles. Depending on which caliper adapter you have, they use either the 10-7/8" (good) or 11-3/4" rotor (better). The down side is they are heavy. A plus is this spindle is 3lbs lighter per side than the '73-76 A-bdy spindle.

There is one more option which, IMO, will maximize the performance of stock parts. That is to use either of the above spindles, with the Cordoba 11-3/4" rotors, and the AR Engineering caliper adapter which will mount Wilwood 4 piston calipers to the stock rotor. In other words, the best of both worlds.

The only down side I see is that those Wilwood calipers, IIRC, are not for four season use. I believe they do not have piston boot seals. In other words, maybe not best for daily driver use. But hey, I live in FL... LOL

This is the system I'm planning for multiple projects, paired up with the rear disc brakes from Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Hope this gives you more options to consider. Does your head hurt yet? Ha ha

Mike in FL
 
Tied doing a search for these rotors this week and didn't have any luck with the posted part number. I know from the post that they are for a Mustang but does anyone know what year or if the listed part number changed. Trying to find the needed parts for my Sons 1970 (340) Duster. Thanks for any help.
 
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