Using Oil? A quart/1,000 miles

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k3522

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My 360 engine was rebuilt about 5,000 miles ago by the prior owner. I have reciepts on the professional rebuild. My question is it uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles but is this normal? It runs great and doesn't seem to burn oil! There is a small leak only at the auto transmission cover shield that
doesn't amount to anything much and doesn't continue while parked. I checked down inside when I replaced the distributor and all the pipe threaded plugs are in place. The cast valve covers don't leak.
I don't know. Maybe I shouldn't care too much and just keep adding oil as needed.
 
k3522 said:
My 360 engine was rebuilt about 5,000 miles ago by the prior owner. I have reciepts on the professional rebuild. My question is it uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles but is this normal? It runs great and doesn't seem to burn oil! There is a small leak only at the auto transmission cover shield that
doesn't amount to anything much and doesn't continue while parked. I checked down inside when I replaced the distributor and all the pipe threaded plugs are in place. The cast valve covers don't leak.
I don't know. Maybe I shouldn't care too much and just keep adding oil as needed.
Click to expand...
I'm sure this isn't much help but, my 64 273 uses 1 QT per 1 FULL tank of fuel. Has 70,700 miles though. Doesn't leak, does throw a black spot in the morning during warm up, will smoke a little at 1st take off if cold only. I never see any smoke other than that.
Our 67 with 70 318 uses 1Qt per 2 months but lately thats due to being on ramps! LOL!! Normally will go through 1Qt every 5 FULL tanks of fuel, no smoke but leaves a half dollar spot from drain plug everywhere it goes like my Harleys used to!! Enjoy and Good Luck!!:-D
 
1qt. in a thousand miles seems like quite a bit to me. i know the 50,000 mile motor in my dart will go all summer without ever having to add any oil. and i put quite a few miles on it during the summer.
 
oil looks clean. porcelin on plugs are tan but the tang does have soot and the threads do have oil.
 
Cast valve covers with new mopar chrome breather on one cover and
working PVC valve on the other. LD340 intake.
 
Sometimes you have to run them for a while and they will stop burning. Also, at a shop I worked at we would run'em hard after initial break in to seat the rings. Just like they do on the dyno. If it was babied after break in maybe it needs more time to seat the rings?
Could also be other issues like poor cylinder finish/hone. Valve guide clearance.
The 273 in my 65 Cuda does not burn a drop. I just rebuilt that over the winter and as soon as the cam was broke in I was ripping up the street at 6k.
 
I have a worse problem now. Went to get car out after work and went to get gas, after pumping gas car wouldn't start! Car is getting gas but no spark. Buddy towed me home how humiliating. How do I test ballast resistor? I may start with putting my old orange ECU replacing the newer one to see if that is what is wrong. Electrical issues suck. The tach was doing funny thing jumping needle movements the last week and I wondered if something was failing?
 
just put a jumper across the ballast to see if it fires up but don't run it for long. as far as the oil check your valve guides too. alot of times people do a simple valve job and don't do anything to the guides.
 
One thing to check for- I bought a new set of Mopar black cast valve covers and my car started using oil about the same, come to find out the spot for my pcv valve didn't have a baffle under it. Added that and now no oil usage
 
k3522 said:
I have a worse problem now. Went to get car out after work and went to get gas, after pumping gas car wouldn't start! Car is getting gas but no spark. Buddy towed me home how humiliating. How do I test ballast resistor? I may start with putting my old orange ECU replacing the newer one to see if that is what is wrong. Electrical issues suck. The tach was doing funny thing jumping needle movements the last week and I wondered if something was failing?
Click to expand...

That tach may be related to your ballast resistor about to fail.Could also be a poor ground to the tach.
 
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