Using oil issue

-
F

Frank Dinatally

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
168
Reaction score
61
Location
Pennsylvania
Well the 65 barracuda with 273 is up and running and being driven on a fairly frequent basis. I was told when I bought it almost 5 years ago that motor was rebuilt 4000 miles before I got it. During restoration the top and bottom of engine were opened up and all parts looked very new and was put right back together. That was before the 4.5 year total restore was complete which is now about time. The car turned out awesome in appearance but it is using a qt of oil around every 100 miles. I will post a pic with this for all to see. But back to the oil issue What is any and all possibilities causing this

IMG_0140.jpeg


IMG_0143.jpeg


IMG_0136.jpeg


IMG_0103.jpeg
 
Assuming no leaking!


  1. Rings not seated properly.
  2. Engine not really rebuilt
  3. Valve seals / guides

My 175,000 mile ago rebuilt 273 uses about that in 100 to 300 miles

When I first start it I get noticable smoke out the exhaust till it warms up a bit, then I don't see it anymore, but I'm sure it's there.

Check your plugs for signs of burnt oil.
 
It was on a lift with a really good Mopar guy a really gone over for leaks and absolutely no leaks. There is no trace whatsoever of any blue smoke from exhaust.. was told possibly pcv valve and I put in a new one. Still doing it
 
Make sure it’s not pulling oil through the PVC system.

I’ve seen engines leak pretty well (under 15%) that used oil like a mother.

Most of the time the second ring was killed and the oil rings were marginal at best.
 
Make sure the oilpan has not been overfilled.
Don't try to run it at 160*F. I run mine at 207(by IR gun).
Make sure the choke id off...... etc
But in the End, I'm pretty sure Turk nailed it in Post #9.
 
Last edited:
that's a very cool car you have there :thumbsup: . i know it's frowned upon by purists but you painted the engine bay the same as i did my 65 dart years ago (excuse the bad picture quality).
neil.
1726484187166.png
 
Sounds like an improper ring finish was used on the cylinders. That's a lot of oil unaccounted for with no leaks.
 
Like others have said, it's got to be going somewhere. Some places might loan you a leakdown tester, if not Harbor Freight sells em for like 86 bucks (saw it yesterday). I'm sure it's not dead accurate but it'll tell you if you have an issue.
 
Hard to say what is going on with your rings seating after sitting for that much time.

Who's to say it was even overhauled 4000 miles prior, people will say anything when trying to sell you a car.

Have had great luck with the "Seafoam Treatment" to free up carbon stuck piston rings on many oil buring engines.

Put a pint of seafoam in the engine oil and let it run at a fast idle for 1/2 hour.

Change that oil out with some thin 5w30 motor oil and new filter. Put another pint of seafoam in with the new oil and take it out and drive it for 50 miles. You need to work the engine to heat it up and expand out the piston rings to help them reseat to the cylinder walls.

Get back and drain out that oil when it is warm and put in your regular grade of 10w30 or 10w40 motor oil and a new filter.

Then go to driving again.

____________

For worse cases that are smoking while idling, pull the spark plugs and pour in 1 ounce of seafoam into each cylinder and let it set (soak) for a week to dissolve the carbon in the piston ring grooves.

Put the plugs back in and do the above process for the final clean up.

The oil coming out will be really black from the removed carbon.

Have successfully done this on many engines to stop the oil buring.

Even a nasty dirty diesel old tractor that was smoking at idle at time of purchase. Had to put 2 pints of seafoam in the engine oil and run it up warm for a 1/2 hour, let that one set for 2 weeks to soak.

Injectors on those diesels so can't easily pull spark plugs like gas engines.

Followed up with the same process as above, cleaned it right up. Still not smoking to this day, keeping the oil and filter changed on a regular basis.

20240907_141944(0).jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
Well here is what I see. Same thing I did. I have a lift and My son has a engine machine shop. My car was going through oil since the day I installed it.

I could not find the leak or where it was going. The first thing I did wrong was listened to all the race car builders and painted the engine black to let the heat out theory. The rest of the engine was polished Aluminum. The Pan was a Milodon. Searched for the leak for a long time and never found it, Tried Intake. Valve covers . Senders. .

After tearing the engine down for upgrades we saw the milodon pan coating was flaking. So we sold it to the guy with the Demon. Due to the pan looking bad we painted it orange. With the pan now painted orange we found the leak after installed. The pan had a bad weld on the side up high and only leaked when running and went all over the side of the block..

I will never paint any engine a dark shiney color again. all the milodon pans get Painted unless the customer requests to leave it gold. The engine always looked wet and you could not tell where the oil was coming from. The gold pan hid the wet gold oil. Silver would be better then gold . I will always paint the engine Orange, Blue or Red now..

Your engine color choice although may look cool it will always hide where oil leaks are coming from.

100_0055 (2).JPG


20171202_141710.jpg
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Well here is what I see. Same thing I did. I have a lift and My son has a engine machine shop. My car was going through oil since the day I installed it.

I could not find the leak or where it was going. The first thing I did wrong was listened to all the race car builders and painted the engine black to let the heat out theory. The rest of the engine was polished Aluminum. The Pan was a Milodon. Searched for the leak for a long time and never found it, Tried Intake. Valve covers . Senders. .

After tearing the engine down for upgrades we saw the milodon pan coating was flaking. So we sold it to the guy with the Demon. Due to the pan looking bad we painted it orange. With the pan now painted orange we found the leak after installed. The pan had a bad weld on the side up high and only leaked when running and went all over the side of the block..

I will never paint any engine a dark shiney color again. all the milodon pans get Painted unless the customer requests to leave it gold. The engine always looked wet and you could not tell where the oil was coming from. The gold pan hid the wet gold oil. Silver would be better then gold . I will always paint the engine Orange, Blue or Red now..



Your engine color choice although may look cool it will always hide where oil leaks are coming from.

View attachment 1716304042

View attachment 1716304043
Click to expand...

Hi old man lol Me too
I am in lehighton about 20 minutes away. Is it possible to bring it down either to you or maybe your son’s shop to discuss what possibly is going on. First off I am not a mechanic. So I need things explained in English
Thanx Frank
 
Tailpipes are going to be full of black soot using 1 quart of oil for every 100 miles.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Frank Dinatally said:
Hi old man lol Me too
I am in lehighton about 20 minutes away. Is it possible to bring it down either to you or maybe your son’s shop to discuss what possibly is going on. First off I am not a mechanic. So I need things explained in English
Thanx Frank
Click to expand...
Old man Mopar your inbox is full. That is why I writing here
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top