Using oil issue

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L2 sucking oil, lotsa ash. L4 not so good.
Tighten intake bolts, clean plugs, repeat .
On-end shot of 2/4 plug tips may be helpful.
 
Make sure it’s not pulling oil through the PVC system.

I’ve seen engines leak pretty well (under 15%) that used oil like a mother.

Most of the time the second ring was killed and the oil rings were marginal at best.
Not saying that a compression test and a leak down shouldn't be done but let me relate what happened to a customer last summer.
Customer bought a new 602 crate from us and had us dyno it. Motor dynoed fine and made slightly above average power for a 602 crate.
He put the motor in his race car and it ran fine the first couple of nights. Soon following he noticed a miss in the feature. He pulled the plugs and had one that appeared fouled. Replaced the plug and the motor ran fine the next race but at the following race started missing again. He pulled the plugs and the same cylinder was fouled again.
This time all cylinders were compression checked and leaked down. All cylinders checked good in both compression and leak down. Customer tried a different carb but in about 2 races the plug fouled again.
We borescoped the engine and the cylinder in question looked like the other cylinders. Nothing out of the ordinary.
The motor was still running great so the customer finished the last few nights of the season preemptively replacing the sparkplug.
At the end of the season the motor was taken to a certified crate rebuilder who repeated a compression, leak down and bore scope of the engine. Finding nothing the motor was disassembled. It was discovered that the oil rings were mistakenly left off the piston from the cylinder in question when it was assembled new from the factory. Only the top and second rings were on the piston.
My take away from this is that a compression or leak down test are not good indicators of the condition of the oil rings.
 
It's possible that the rings have stuck from the motor sitting that long. When we dyno restoration motors we encourage the customer to let us fog the motor for them when we are done dynoing.
 
L2 sucking oil, lotsa ash. L4 not so good.
Tighten intake bolts, clean plugs, repeat .
On-end shot of 2/4 plug tips may be helpful.
L2 sucking oil, lotsa ash. L4 not so good.
Tighten intake bolts, clean plugs, repeat .
On-end shot of 2/4 plug tips may be helpful.

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An engine sitting for a very long time, if not properly prepared, can literally let the cylinders with open valves " breathe".
Suck in cold damp air, expel warm air, day after day can form rust patches in those cyls.
Lotsa these engines will seize, others will run with reduced power? from these cyls, and only discovered at tear down.
Not saying this is the case, BUT it is one of the reasons I rotate the crank a few times a year on racecar engines, (should do all).
A bent pushrod or stuck valve could cause a similar condition.
 
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I’ve had two motors sit for 12-13 years. I did nothing to prepare the for the years to follow. They sat with zero attention the entire time. Primed the engine and turned the key. Ran just fine.
 
I’ve had two motors sit for 12-13 years. I did nothing to prepare the for the years to follow. They sat with zero attention the entire time. Primed the engine and turned the key. Ran just fine.
Except for the 2 rusty cylinder walls.
 
I’ve had two motors sit for 12-13 years. I did nothing to prepare the for the years to follow. They sat with zero attention the entire time. Primed the engine and turned the key. Ran just fine.

Yep, all depends on climate, temp change ranges, humdittity, etc.
I release the rockers/shafts on our cars, non-ohcam.
Rotate the ohcam engines regularly.
 
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If it were mine, I'd clean the plugs or new, run it for a few hours, and pull the plugs again looking for plugs that are "different".
I would expect that plug to be wet/oily again.
Sources of oil, - pcv, intake manifold or gasket, valve guide, valve not opening, ring.
good luck
jmo
 


Just one of many videos on the subject. I used to work at a boat shop and at the end of the boating season we would fog the motors as a part of the preparation for storage over the winter.
It is the process of spraying storage or fogging oil either through the intake or sparkplug holes or both in an effort to prevent rust and oxidation from forming on the inside of your engine when it is not being used.
 
Well the 65 barracuda with 273 is up and running and being driven on a fairly frequent basis. I was told when I bought it almost 5 years ago that motor was rebuilt 4000 miles before I got it. During restoration the top and bottom of engine were opened up and all parts looked very new and was put right back together. That was before the 4.5 year total restore was complete which is now about time. The car turned out awesome in appearance but it is using a qt of oil around every 100 miles. I will post a pic with this for all to see. But back to the oil issue What is any and all possibilities causing this

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I had the same issue. The Iintake was leaking. Pull it, new gaskets and pay a lot of attention to the transitions front and back. Black rtv at joints.
 
Gave a quick scan, sorry if I missed it.
Are you using synthetic oil.
If so, before tearing it down, try changing to dino-oil, 10/40 with zinc, for grins and giggles, prove or disprove old argument.
Good luck
 
I'm with AJ on the oil pan overfill or fill as it was in my case. I had a 318 in my Duster once that I got out of a 1967 Satellite that would use oil like that if I tried to keep it at the full mark but if I let it stay a quart low it would stay at the add mark indefinitely. I couldn't figure it out because as far as I know it was the original dip stick but it didn't like having oil to the full mark.
 
Valve cover is leaking, the crud on the one plug is collecting on oil, but not enough to be a quart every 100 miles. Leak down test, everything else is just guessing. My guess, stuck or sticky ring from sitting.
 
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