vacuum secondary vs. double pumper?

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If your close to stock I would stick to the Edelbrock. Thay work well with proper tuning just like the thermoquad carb. I personally like them better than holleys and proform vacuum secondary. Dp work awsome but can bog the car out if not on the right set up!
 
valentino automotive said:
If your close to stock I would stick to the Edelbrock. Thay work well with proper tuning just like the thermoquad carb. I personally like them better than holleys and proform vacuum secondary. Dp work awsome but can bog the car out if not on the right set up!
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How dare you blaspheme a Thermoquad by using the "E" word in the same sentence. You shall be dealt with. lol
 
valentino automotive said:
If your close to stock I would stick to the Edelbrock. Thay work well with proper tuning just like the thermoquad carb. I personally like them better than holleys and proform vacuum secondary. Dp work awsome but can bog the car out if not on the right set up!
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Well thats the thing, i'm not really close to stock, its too small, and the edelcrap has a fatal flaw, they don't like cornering. No bueno for a pro touring ride.
 
I'd put a 750dp, the lower buck one, model 4779 on it. They are usually pretty close out of the box for jetting. Might need some tuning with accel pump and power valve, not tough to do.

You could also go to the HP and ultra models, more tunable and also more $
 
I'd like to know why a DP is better for a manual trans car.
 
Well i made a decision. I decided to go for a vac. secondary holley 750. I got a 3310-2(4160) off of feebay for about 100 bucks shipped. rebuild kits are cheap and i'm sure i can nearly break even selling my edelcrap + calibration kit on ebay since the edelcrap is rebuilt and looks/runs like new.
 
Idaho said:
I'd like to know why a DP is better for a manual trans car.
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someone can correct me if i'm wrong(this thread shows i'm no expert by any stretch), but i think it has to do with the gear engagement. The vac. uses load sensing and an auto has a constant load on the engine whereas the manual will not have a constant load(presuming you're not powershifting)
 
OldmanRick said:
Great price and if you need to do more secondary tuning you can always convert the secondaries with this. Would need a longer feed line but can always cut and put a short section of hose in between to make up the difference.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-34-13/
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yeah i saw those conversion kits. Thats what sold me on it. A simple stock rebuild should do great for now, but the carb has parts to grow and with that price it'll be a lot of upgrades before its as expensive as a some of the current holley's
 
magnumdust said:
someone can correct me if i'm wrong(this thread shows i'm no expert by any stretch), but i think it has to do with the gear engagement. The vac. uses load sensing and an auto has a constant load on the engine whereas the manual will not have a constant load(presuming you're not powershifting)
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Your close. It's load at low rpm that's really the deciding factor. You can rev a stick and dump the clutch and along with some tire spin you're not loading the engine as hard. A low speed stall converter will give a load at alot lower rpm. That's where gear comes in to get the R's up quick.
 
magnumdust said:
Well i made a decision. I decided to go for a vac. secondary holley 750. I got a 3310-2(4160) off of feebay for about 100 bucks shipped. rebuild kits are cheap and i'm sure i can nearly break even selling my edelcrap + calibration kit on ebay since the edelcrap is rebuilt and looks/runs like new.
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Let me know when you get your holley, so I can put the smack down on you with my little 600ede small block. :shock: :D
 
magnumdust said:
yeah i saw those conversion kits. Thats what sold me on it. A simple stock rebuild should do great for now, but the carb has parts to grow and with that price it'll be a lot of upgrades before its as expensive as a some of the current holley's
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Down the road, considering a block conversion, jets, pump nozzles, spring assortment for the secondaries and even a power valve change your still at $250 or less.......your golden in my opinion.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Let me know when you get your holley, so I can put the smack down on you with my little 600ede small block. :shock: :D
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Ok, but when happens when you have to enter the first corner? :D(because i know what happens)
 
good luck with the carb...I would never buy a used carb unless I saw it running on an engine......JMO
 
70aarcuda said:
good luck with the carb...I would never buy a used carb unless I saw it running on an engine......JMO
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Thanks we'll see what happens. It looked ok in the pics, but clearly in need of a rebuild. So I bought it with the intention of doing a full rebuild. I'll take some pics when it gets here and what it looks like after the rebuild.

Worse comes to worse and i'm out 150 bucks. Not the end of the world, but the flip side is that i could save me a couple hundred bucks.
 
Idaho said:
I'd like to know why a DP is better for a manual trans car.
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Unless you shift at WOT then you will have to wait for the vacuum secondaries to reopen with each shift killing ET even with the lightest spring you will still have to wait. VS carbs lack an accelerator pump and cant open as fast as a double pumper.


magnumdust said:
Well i made a decision. I decided to go for a vac. secondary holley 750. I got a 3310-2(4160) off of feebay for about 100 bucks shipped. rebuild kits are cheap and i'm sure i can nearly break even selling my edelcrap + calibration kit on ebay since the edelcrap is rebuilt and looks/runs like new.
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Not bad, thats the going swap meet rate for one. Not a bad carb way better than an Edelbrock.

Johnny Dart said:
Let me know when you get your holley, so I can put the smack down on you with my little 600ede small block. :shock: :D
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Funny thing is that your car is fast but would be A LOT faster with a good Holley. :toothy8:

70aarcuda said:
good luck with the carb...I would never buy a used carb unless I saw it running on an engine......JMO
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I have had good luck with used Holleys, its the used Carters that have kicked my butt in the past. BTW a thermoquad is like a Red headed girl, either she is hot or she is really not. :D
 
turbodart68 said:
Funny thing is that your car is fast but would be A LOT faster with a good Holley. :toothy8:

Maybe...Maybe not.
One thing for sure,is I would also have to futz with it more than a British motorcycle. :toothy8:
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Johnny Dart said:
turbodart68 said:
Funny thing is that your car is fast but would be A LOT faster with a good Holley. :toothy8:

Maybe...Maybe not.
One thing for sure,is I would also have to futz with it more than a British motorcycle. :toothy8:
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That's a reasonable trade off to me. I may have to fiddle with it more, but i wont have to worry about the car bogging every time i go around a corner.
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Johnny Dart said:
Maybe...Maybe not.
One thing for sure,is I would also have to futz with it more than a British motorcycle. :toothy8:
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Watch your mouth..... I have you know I own a British motorcycle and I don't have to futz with it!

Anyways Holleys are for racers and Eddies are for car show enthusiasts! :burnout:
 
I have a set up like yours and use the holley 770 street avenger now that I have it set up It couldnt work better. spring changes, acc pump squirter changes, for a ready to run carb it was almost perfect out of the box. vacume secondary
 
Johnny Dart said:
mullinax95 said:
Watch your mouth..... I have you know I own a British motorcycle.

Sorry to hear that.
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Ah you just mad because it will out run your little old car! Here I made a video of my bike for you. VVVRRROOOOOOMMMM BYE BYE !!!

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xILxGC6zHwQ"]Triumph Rocket III Roadster - YouTube[/ame]
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