Valve cover questions

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fireguyfire

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I was lucky enough to have Bob on here sell me a pair of finned valve covers for the 273 4 bbl engine in my 67 formula S fastback ( they had been stolen when the car was in storage years ago).
A couple of questions about freshening them up.
What is the correct paint to use on the valve covers? I know they were black wrinkle finish and I’m wondering what paint would be a good match.
Secondly, are the plastic spark plug wire insulators available out there? These have 1 left but the others are missing.
 
I believe VHT makes or has black wrinkle paint. There is a bit of art to get it to come out right. The nylon plug wire holders are available.
Mega Parts, Van's and other suppliers.
 
If I were in the US I would send to Leanna @CudaChick1968 for powdercoating. Perfect and lasts forever.
If you're set on paint, either VHT or Duplicolor offer paint. Insulators are different, depending on the year.
 
4spdragtop said:
If I were in the US I would send to Leanna @CudaChick1968 for powdercoating. Perfect and lasts forever.
If you're set on paint, either VHT or Duplicolor offer paint. Insulators are different, depending on the year.
Click to expand...
Exactly. Next year mine will be 14 years old since Leanna did them. Here's a photo from last year.

Battery topper2.jpg
 
Last edited:
4spdragtop said:
Incredible 14 years old!
Click to expand...
Sorry I made some corrections, 14 years. I bet I never set the clock and calendar on my old digital camera. THe photo file was named "Spring Break 09".

Still, 14 years and they look like new. And because of the 273's solid cam, they have been off probably 10 times.
 
Got any Spring Break pics?? :lol:
toolmanmike said:
Sorry I made some corrections, 14 years. I bet I never set the clock and calendar on my old digital camera. THe photo file was named "Spring Break 09".

Still, 14 years and they look like new. And because of the 273's solid cam, they have been off probably 10 times.
Click to expand...
 
You made me smile again this morning @toolmanmike!
:thankyou:

Commando valve covers are always a lot of work to restore. The tins are pretty tough old steel but nearly 60 years of prior owners usually weren't kind to them.

Overtightening can blow out the bolt holes, wire harness tabs get mangled and/or broken off, stovepipes get crushed and gasket rails get bent or flattened. The big interior baffles ensure it's a PITA to repair dents too, even when you have more tools than Jeff Spicoli's dad.

But it's typically the aluminum fins that carry the brunt of damage ... especially when it's time to "restore" them. Prying on them for removal for a repaint breaks my heart because 'swayback' is the hardest thing to fix.

These hold the record for the worst to ever cross my bench about five years ago.

FB_IMG_1702653668370.jpg

FB_IMG_1702653685698.jpg

FB_IMG_1702653693619.jpg

FB_IMG_1702653702474.jpg

They're back on Jed Scott's Yard Dart (Scott's Speed Shop on YouTube). Here's how that set turned out.



This set was restored for our member @65dartcharger's beautiful ride that attended the MCACN show -- all the way from Sweden!! -- a few years back. His ride scored 996 points out of a possible 1000, and my valve covers weren't any of the deductions.

FB_IMG_1700771188918.jpg


@fireguyfire, the plug wire guides are still available. Keep in mind though there were two different styles which your fins will determine. Some were one-piece white plastic that snap into the uprights (they're easy to install but break easily if you don't know how to take them off) and the others were individual rounds that slide into the holes. If your fins have an oval hole in the center of the upright it used the one-piece style.

Feel free to get in touch if I can help with yours too!!!
 
CudaChick1968 said:
You made me smile again this morning @toolmanmike!
:thankyou:

Commando valve covers are always a lot of work to restore. The tins are pretty tough old steel but nearly 60 years of prior owners usually weren't kind to them.

Overtightening can blow out the bolt holes, wire harness tabs get mangled and/or broken off, stovepipes get crushed and gasket rails get bent or flattened. The big interior baffles ensure it's a PITA to repair dents too, even when you have more tools than Jeff Spicoli's dad.

But it's typically the aluminum fins that carry the brunt of damage ... especially when it's time to "restore" them. Prying on them for removal for a repaint breaks my heart because 'swayback' is the hardest thing to fix.

These hold the record for the worst to ever cross my bench about five years ago.

View attachment 1716178652

View attachment 1716178653

View attachment 1716178654

View attachment 1716178655

They're back on Jed Scott's Yard Dart (Scott's Speed Shop on YouTube). Here's how that set turned out.



This set was restored for our member @65dartcharger's beautiful ride that attended the MCACN show -- all the way from Sweden!! -- a few years back. His ride scored 996 points out of a possible 1000, and my valve covers weren't any of the deductions.

View attachment 1716178663

@fireguyfire, the plug wire guides are still available. Keep in mind though there were two different styles which your fins will determine. Some were one-piece white plastic that snap into the uprights (they're easy to install but break easily if you don't know how to take them off) and the others were individual rounds that slide into the holes. If your fins have an oval hole in the center of the upright it used the one-piece style.

Feel free to get in touch if I can help with yours too!!!
Click to expand...

There's some beauty right there. Making a silk purse out of a sow's ear is what I see.
 
Phenomenal! Congratulations Lee :thumbsup:
CudaChick1968 said:
You made me smile again this morning @toolmanmike!
:thankyou:

Commando valve covers are always a lot of work to restore. The tins are pretty tough old steel but nearly 60 years of prior owners usually weren't kind to them.

Overtightening can blow out the bolt holes, wire harness tabs get mangled and/or broken off, stovepipes get crushed and gasket rails get bent or flattened. The big interior baffles ensure it's a PITA to repair dents too, even when you have more tools than Jeff Spicoli's dad.

But it's typically the aluminum fins that carry the brunt of damage ... especially when it's time to "restore" them. Prying on them for removal for a repaint breaks my heart because 'swayback' is the hardest thing to fix.

These hold the record for the worst to ever cross my bench about five years ago.

View attachment 1716178652

View attachment 1716178653

View attachment 1716178654

View attachment 1716178655

They're back on Jed Scott's Yard Dart (Scott's Speed Shop on YouTube). Here's how that set turned out.



This set was restored for our member @65dartcharger's beautiful ride that attended the MCACN show -- all the way from Sweden!! -- a few years back. His ride scored 996 points out of a possible 1000, and my valve covers weren't any of the deductions.

View attachment 1716178663

@fireguyfire, the plug wire guides are still available. Keep in mind though there were two different styles which your fins will determine. Some were one-piece white plastic that snap into the uprights (they're easy to install but break easily if you don't know how to take them off) and the others were individual rounds that slide into the holes. If your fins have an oval hole in the center of the upright it used the one-piece style.

Feel free to get in touch if I can help with yours too!!!
Click to expand...
 
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