valve identification?

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Yes, they appear to be OEM. Aftermarket often has single groove locks. A machine shop with a good reputation could probably give a better analysis on reusing them. What is your intended usage?

You can get some new stainless valves at a reasonable price. They also tend to be more of a "nail-head" design, which flow better on the intake and have less "cup" on the chamber side for a tiny bit more compression. If the valve seats are beat up, it would help to go to slightly bigger valves so you have the valve seats higher up on fresh material, which also helps flow.
 
I'm building a 408 stroker. Thanks for the info. I'd never seen the multiple groove locks before, I'm new to the small block Mopar thing. Dealt mostly with built big blocks that my father ran. I still need to have the heads gone through, so I'll be looking into a new set of valves as well...
 
Just an option if you plan to stay with the J-heads...Use Magnum 1.92"/1.625 valves which will provide a bit more fresh valve job material and the narrower stems will help flow once you neck the guides down accordingly. Make sure you use the proper overall length to get good rocker geometry and contact.
 
Look like stock valves with a good bit of stem wear.
 
see that lip on top of the intake valve head, thats not a real good flow design. Exhaust can be flat faced for compression too. Stainless valves are pretty inexpensive nowadays.
 
RJK3 said:
Agreed.
Click to expand...

Hello.... Might check out/call SI valves, out of Simi Valley,CA. My machinist boss/ buddy has used them, no problems.(30 years,+) Nice product, decent prices.

I would update to a single notch valve , if it were me....
 
Abodybomber said:
Hello.... Might check out/call SI valves, out of Simi Valley,CA. My machinist boss/ buddy has used them, no problems.(30 years,+) Nice product, decent prices.

I would update to a single notch valve , if it were me....
Click to expand...


Thanks Bomber, I'll give them a call.
 
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