Valvoline VR-1 vs. Lucas Hot Rod oil

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73Dart340Sport

73dart340
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I have a 340 with a flat tappet cam. I used to use Rotella with the Hughes Engines zinc additive which is discontinued. Lucas Hot Rod oil is difficult to find out west which limits my options. Any opinions on Valvoline VR-1 high zinc oil?
 
Love it for my wife's race/street car and notice no difference between it and the Driven HR race oil I ran in it. My car can't stand it and I had to go back to the old stuff. I gained a temperature change in the motor and lost consistency. Both oils are very similarly rated and of course, one is cheaper than the other (by a lot). But not the one my car liked.

My cars issue might be a synthetic thing and it's strictly a track car.
 
Love it for my wife's race/street car and notice no difference between it and the Driven HR race oil I ran in it. My car can't stand it and I had to go back to the old stuff. I gained a temperature change in the motor and lost consistency. Both oils are very similarly rated and of course, one is cheaper than the other (by a lot). But not the one my car liked.

My cars issue might be a synthetic thing and it's strictly a track car.
 
Which oil caused your car loose performance? Both seem evenly priced although I have to buy Lucas online or drive 70 miles to Denver to get it.
 
I was only comparing the VR product and the Driven HR-3. Which seems to have dropped the Joe Gibbs name even though the part number is still JGR.
 
Rotella T diesel oil has 1100ppm of zinc.
Really good for conventional oil. The Joe Gibbs is also a great oil. If your nervous just run the oil of choice and add additive.
I have 0 experience with VR oil but heard the same about it is same formula as JG.
 
This forum is not great for this type
of information, I would look to independent lab test and not advertising hype or opinions.
 
I've been running VR-1 in the Duster. No issues. But I also run regular conventional oil with ZDDP additive, no issues. Many ways of skinning the cat here
 
Use the correct viscosity of conventional oil of your choice and add a bottle of STP oil treatment.
Vr1 sucks, I'd rather use napa 20 50w and an additive.. than pay extra for the label and the worthless vr1 designation.
 
I have been using VR-1 with good results. Never a problem. Now will try some Brad Penn. Also have heard Shaeffer is supposed to be really good. The Shaeffer is compatible with alcohol engines! And the zinc ppm is I think 1400- 1600? Also the phosphorus is the same amount.
 
My machinist recommended rotella with the Lucas zinc additive. He is gonna give me a bottle of the additive when I pick my engine up for break in.
 
I have a 340 with a flat tappet cam. I used to use Rotella with the Hughes Engines zinc additive which is discontinued. Lucas Hot Rod oil is difficult to find out west which limits my options. Any opinions on Valvoline VR-1 high zinc oil?

love Lucas Hot rod oil. Its all i will run in my 69 street/ strip dart.
I have an aggressive flat tappet cam, and the car sometimes sits a while Without being run. Its high in zinc.
That oil is real good for such cars that sometimes sit... clings good
Like mine all winter and sometimes few days between use even in summer.

stuff is easy to get off Amazon, most parts stores can get it too, or by me, actually stock it. Summit and everybody else has it too
 
another VR 1 user here too! my engine builder told me that's all he recommends
 
I have a 340 with a flat tappet cam. I used to use Rotella with the Hughes Engines zinc additive which is discontinued. Lucas Hot Rod oil is difficult to find out west which limits my options. Any opinions on Valvoline VR-1 high zinc oil?
Actually agree with Moparofficial and 66Jim, and Trailbeast. LOL
1. Use the correct viscosity. That's more important than the additive package.
- The oil pressure gage, temperature, and the tach will clue you as to whether the grade has the correct viscosity.
- If its a stock 340 with stock cam and springs, would not worry too much about the zddp. Anything over 800 ppm will do the job assuming the oil is changed every 2000 miles or so. If it's higher spring pressures or extended oil changes, then sure, look for higher.
2. Next oil change send a sample out for analysis. Do the same after trying the new oil. If the wear rates change and the use was the same, then maybe the new oil is doing a better or worse job.

If you want something other than opinions, download the pdf about oil for Flat Tappet engines here:
Oil Selection for Flat Tappet Engines
 
VR1 user for 15+ years here, never an issue. That being said, I'd run either of the oils you're asking about without hesitation.
 
Lucas hot rod oil is 2100 ppm
FWIW.... Excess ZDDP has been reported in some research to cause different problems. (Spalling on some wear surfaces). IIRC the test showed such issues starting at around 2500 ppm. 1200-1300 ppm is adequate, and is the typical range of the older oils.
 
FWIW.... Excess ZDDP has been reported in some research to cause different problems. (Spalling on some wear surfaces). IIRC the test showed such issues starting at around 2500 ppm. 1200-1300 ppm is adequate, and is the typical range of the older oils.

cool.... maybe that is why Lucas stayed under the 2500
All i know is the stuff does a great job. People are gonna use what they use. No biggie, doesn't effect my stuff....lol
 
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