Very stupid problem and question!

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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After taking my dart to the track and manually going through the gears a few times I have noticed my 727 is shifting through all gears by the time I get up to 20 mph and it is not downshifting when I floor it. I know this is an amateur question but what in the world would cause this and how easy is it to fix?

The car had a small block with a 727 by the way.
 
Is your kickdown set correctly? I manual shift becuase stock governors and lots of power = in 3rd by 20mph... Common as the cold.
 
Woods74 said:
Is your kickdown set correctly? I manual shift becuase stock governors and lots of power = in 3rd by 20mph... Common as the cold.
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I haven't taken a look at the kick down yet honestly. I'm at my house and just remembered the issue so I posted it on here. I'll take a look at it next time I'm at my parents. The power thing may be an issue but I'm putting out around 400 ponies which doesn't seem too high compared to some builds on here.
 
Again, common, common, common. Check your linkage and let it roll; if you really want higher shift points left in automatic mode, your going to need to drop your tail shaft and work on the governor weights check out A&A they sell replacements rated for different points. For me it's not worth the trouble.. I like to use the handle to shift when I'm getting on it.
 
Woods74 said:
Again, common, common, common. Check your linkage and let it roll; if you really want higher shift points left in automatic mode, your going to need to drop your tail shaft and work on the governor weights check out A&A they sell replacements rated for different points. For me it's not worth the trouble.. I like to use the handle to shift when I'm getting on it.
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If the linkage looks good then I'll be in the same boat as you. I don't mind using the handle but it gets a little risky with column shift.
 
if U had 450 hp it should not be in drive at 20 mph, max out the throttle pressure linkage ( sometimes wrongly called kickdown ) this is when the throttle is maxed out the linkage is pushed to the rear completely
 
That was a good question, because my Duster acts the same way.

Thanks for the good info. and putting my mind at ease, WOODS74. I need a floor shift like you. I agree, it's not worth the trouble. Just floor it in DRIVE.

I was thinking, now what's wrong. I'm retired and getting tired of this. Ha Ha !

Doogievlg, What track ? Edgewater. I'm down the road from you. Brown Cty I have column

shift also.
 
You wore some parts and should turn the line pressure up and adjust the bands. One thing to remember when manual shifting your car. Low gear while in drive is a different apply then putting the trans in low gear. You should never use low gear position to take off, What you should do is leave the car in drive . Take off and then pull it back to low when you shift second you will feel there is less over lap and wear on the trans.
 
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
That was a good question, because my Duster acts the same way.

Thanks for the good info. and putting my mind at ease, WOODS74. I need a floor shift like you. I agree, it's not worth the trouble. Just floor it in DRIVE.

I was thinking, now what's wrong. I'm retired and getting tired of this. Ha Ha !

Doogievlg, What track ? Edgewater. I'm down the road from you. Brown Cty I have column

shift also.
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Yes I run at edgewater. There are a lot of abodies out near us. We should have a little get together this summer.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You wore some parts and should turn the line pressure up and adjust the bands. One thing to remember when manual shifting your car. Low gear while in drive is a different apply then putting the trans in low gear. You should never use low gear position to take off, What you should do is leave the car in drive . Take off and then pull it back to low when you shift second you will feel there is less over lap and wear on the trans.
Click to expand...

I'll give that a shot also. I'm not in a hurry to pull my transmission apart to fix something I caused
 
FWIW, I have the lokar cable, but I'd venture to guess the rod will be the same, you want full pull at WOT; minus 1/16" or so for deflection.
 
You should really watch this YouTube video from mother Mopar master technicians. It gives some insight on how things work.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsfI9cFFPpg"]71 02 Shift Quality and Linkage Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

I just went through this when I replaced my trans. Once adjusted correctly my kickdown worked fine.
 
Get you throttle pressure lever set properly first , then if you don't like the shift points search here on FABO for a trick Trailbeast showed us to fool the trans into shifting later while still maintaining the correct geometry for the throttle pressure rods .
 
I agree that it sounds like a throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage/adjustment problem. The linkage may have came unhooked or just need adjustment. That being the case get it repaired ASAP because when it is not functioning right it'll toast the trans real fast.

BTW: the condition Oldmanmopar described about not taking off with the shifter in low is easily remedied by installing a quality shift kit that replaces the cushion spring in the rear servo with a solid spacer. The cushion spring ma Mopar put in there to make it shift nice and soft can cause 1st to 2nd overlap when manual shifting a stock transmission. Overlap is very hard on a trans
 
My 65 "S" did the same thing when I got it. The kickdown linkage popped off the lower lever. I was in 3rd before I left the intersection. Between that, over the top power assisted steering and power brakes, that car was like driving a Cadillac.
 
I'm going to buy a new carburetor tonight then I'll swing by my dads house and take a look. I have a small bolt and nut holding the cables to the linkage so there could easily be an issue.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transm...wdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/

Open the Link, and scroll down to pics 13/15, 14/15 and 15/15. Read what it says.

If you get under your car, and take the linkage clip off at the transmission on the kickdown lever.
The clip slides to the side, take rod up and clip comes off. take the rod out of lever and place it to the side.
Now move the lever toward the front of the car . Now move it to towards the rear. when you feel the resistance of the internal spring, stop.

This will be about 1/3 of way back of total travel.

This is where it should be at idle.
Take your linkage rod and see if it lines up with the hole in the kickdown lever. I bet it comes up short.

I think what might be causing problems is adjusting one's linkage for WOT, with accelerator floored and the trans lever toward the rear of the car, all the way.

Then on the other end, it screws up your at idle setting.

I know this is what screwed me up!

What do you guys think? I think this would be a good check for everyone to do, who has a problem.
 
Great Info!!!

When I swapped the current motor in it, I adjusted the throttle pressure and it feels right and shifts great, but I'll take a little time and check the adjustment using the info in the article, for sure.




70 DUSTER CRATE said:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transm...wdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/

Open the Link, and scroll down to pics 13/15, 14/15 and 15/15. Read what it says.

If you get under your car, and take the linkage clip off at the transmission on the kickdown lever.
The clip slides to the side, take rod up and clip comes off. take the rod out of lever and place it to the side.
Now move the lever toward the front of the car . Now move it to towards the rear. when you feel the resistance of the internal spring, stop.

This will be about 1/3 of way back of total travel.

This is where it should be at idle.
Take your linkage rod and see if it lines up with the hole in the kickdown lever. I bet it comes up short.

I think what might be causing problems is adjusting one's linkage for WOT, with accelerator floored and the trans lever toward the rear of the car, all the way.

Then on the other end, it screws up your at idle setting.

I know this is what screwed me up!

What do you guys think? I think this would be a good check for everyone to do.
Click to expand...
 
The last time I had my transmission pan down, I also did the throttle pressure REGULATOR adjustment on the valve body using steps #26 and 27 of the attached Trans-Scat shift kit. Mine required some adjustment and may have helped my shifting points.

Another FABO member recommended it and emailed the instructions to me.
 

Attachments

  • Trans Kickdown Adjustment.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 237
pishta said:
My 65 "S" did the same thing when I got it. The kickdown linkage popped off the lower lever. I was in 3rd before I left the intersection. Between that, over the top power assisted steering and power brakes, that car was like driving a Cadillac.
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Are you talking about the lower lever on the carburetor?
 
Did the car just start doing this? I just went through all of these issues. If you don't have the correct TP(kickdown) linkage, it will not work correctly. If it's a modified car,I strongly suggest using the Lokar setup. It can be very hard to locate the stock levers. Sometimes, like me,I thought I had the correct ones,but I didn't.
 
furyus2 said:
Did the car just start doing this? I just went through all of these issues. If you don't have the correct TP(kickdown) linkage, it will not work correctly. If it's a modified car,I strongly suggest using the Lokar setup. It can be very hard to locate the stock levers. Sometimes, like me,I thought I had the correct ones,but I didn't.
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It isn't the stock linkage. It is a cable, I will post pictures tonight.
 
Personally, I HATE automatic valve bodies. A reverse pattern valve body works kickass with a column shifter. No more worries about overshifting third into neutral or reverse in the heat of the moment and you can throw away all that kickdown crap.
 
No, the lever Iwas talking about was the lower bellcrank off the trans stud. It was just flopping. I put it back and then the car shifted (and finally downshifted) normal after that. It would hold 3.55 rear 1st gear to about 50 if I remember correctly. That was winding that little 273 out pretty good. If you got an aftermarket cable, Listen to a user.
 
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