Vetting a Formula S

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Wilkiethegrid said:
Thank you. Great help. The SO# on the build sheet matches the fender tag.
The sequential VIN numbers on the build sheet matched the VIN on the dash. I will confirm the rad support ,trunk lip ,engine and trans when I do a visual inspection.
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look at inside of quarter panels for factory undercoating to see if the quarters have been replaced.

something like this texture and a stop line done quickly by hand. but this is a 70/71 Barracuda.

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A56 said:
Not all '68 Formula S cars came with poverty caps. Not all Formula S cars were ordered new by a customer. Many like my dad's were already on the showroom floor. Not all Formula S cars were purchased to race or torn apart to race. My dad's good friend owned a dealership and called my dad about a Black '68 Formula S Fastback, B5 blue interior with matching door stripe, power steering, no a/c, console auto. that had just arrived. My dad purchased it and never raced it.
This is the style hubcap that came on my dad's car
View attachment 1716338281
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Those were what was on my dad's 68 fury back in the mid 70s
 
S'cuder said:
A couple things. The light blue interior is correct to the data tag. I got it wrong with black. The red stripe isn't correct with the tag, it would be a pinstripe along the upper end of the fenders and doors, but who cares!?!
The brake master cylinder is for disc brakes. The tag isn't coded for it, but it's a great upgrade. So is the electronic ignition whose control box can be seen on on the fender apron.
The car is worth more if the engine and transmission VINs match the tag on the dash. Not that you'll more fun with it, but consider it when buying. I'm not sure if the early build car will have it there, but my late build '68 has them where the trans meets the engine block just Left of the center line.

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So these numbers should match the sequntial on the VIN?
 
What is meant by "vetting"? Trying to put something off a Corvette onto it?
I hope not
 
volaredon said:
What is meant by "vetting"? Trying to put something off a Corvette onto it?
I hope not
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Hope you're joking. Vetting in this instance refers to investigating the validity of whether or not this car is a true Formula S. A real popular term in politics.
 
Wilkiethegrid said:
So these numbers should match the sequntial on the VIN?
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If they are there and match the last eight characters of your VIN, the engine and/or trans are probably original to the car. I've heard of people restamping the characters to fake it, but that seems to be something done on high dollar B and E-bodies.
To some these numbers mean a lot, and to others nothing at all. But I think I've heard they are worth a 10-15% bump in the price of the car. It's up to the buyer if it's worth it to him or not.
 
S'cuder said:
If they are there and match the last eight characters of your VIN, the engine and/or trans are probably original to the car. I've heard of people restamping the characters to fake it, but that seems to be something done on high dollar B and E-bodies.
To some these numbers mean a lot, and to others nothing at all. But I think I've heard they are worth a 10-15% bump in the price of the car. It's up to the buyer if it's worth it to him or not.
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to me, the rarity of the vehicle plays an important part of the whole numbers game.

like if i was gonna buy an M code car it would have to have the #'s matching motor and trans. the same for something like a survivor car or a "1 of [***]" piece. that, to me, is what makes it special and unique.

on an S car, non OG numbers but correct pieces would be acceptable with that type of 10~15% adjustment. again, in my personal thinking. it wouldn't be a deal breaker, but the number could move the needle either way if i was on the fence.
 
junkyardhero said:
to me, the rarity of the vehicle plays an important part of the whole numbers game.

like if i was gonna buy an M code car it would have to have the #'s matching motor and trans. the same for something like a survivor car or a "1 of [***]" piece. that, to me, is what makes it special and unique.

on an S car, non OG numbers but correct pieces would be acceptable with that type of 10~15% adjustment. again, in my personal thinking. it wouldn't be a deal breaker, but the number could move the needle either way if i was on the fence.
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A good friend has a Hemi Coronet R/T. It was a drag car since new, and never got cut up. The original engine and trans are gone. It's still a desirable car even without them. But it would certainly be worth more with the original pieces.
Another friend restored an M code Dart without the original 440. Also a retired drag car. After it was done, he found the original engine. He sold it with both engines and they eventually made their way to a FABO member. It had been previously owned by a different FABO member.
Neither of these (have) had original engines, so worth less monetarily than those with them. But both are awesome and I'd love either one.
 
If I bought this Car, first thing I would do is take that ridiculous red stripe off and replace it with a white one.
They didn't level up the car with jacks before applying, so it is crooked anyway.

Many of the Cuda experts on here don't know the REAL way to tell if a Cuda is a real Formula S IN TEN SECONDS.
Just look under the front of the rear wheels, if there are no torque boxes...RUN!!!!
 
Torque boxes may be the least reliable way to confirm a small block automatic car is a Formula S. Many came without them. A big block stick car without at least rears would have me looking at it harder though.
 
OtownMissile said:
If I bought this Car, first thing I would do is take that ridiculous red stripe off and replace it with a white one.
They didn't level up the car with jacks before applying, so it is crooked anyway.

Many of the Cuda experts on here don't know the REAL way to tell if a Cuda is a real Formula S IN TEN SECONDS.
Just look under the front of the rear wheels, if there are no torque boxes...RUN!!!!
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My REAL 1968 formula S does not have torque boxes.
 
OtownMissile said:
If I bought this Car, first thing I would do is take that ridiculous red stripe off and replace it with a white one.
They didn't level up the car with jacks before applying, so it is crooked anyway.

Many of the Cuda experts on here don't know the REAL way to tell if a Cuda is a real Formula S IN TEN SECONDS.
Just look under the front of the rear wheels, if there are no torque boxes...RUN!!!!
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:rofl:Wrong, just wrong. Multiple instances of Formula S and 'cuda Package cars not having them. Real 'cuda experts are aware of this.
 
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dadsbee said:
I'll look shortly, doing front hubs currently on my Daughters CX3 Mazda..
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Ugh. Hot torch and a big hammer. Or is it easier to take everything apart and use a press?

Anyway, no rush on the pics, I'm just curious. It's funny, when I bought my 340 automatic car, I passed on a 383 4 speed that I preferred. I figured my wife would say I bought the 4 speed so she couldn't drive it. Not needing that headache, I bought the auto PS PB car. In 15 years she's never driven it! But with serious old age arriving before long, I don't regret buying the girl car.
 
No on the front torque boxes on her 67, there are also none on my 10,325 mile '66 HP2 Hemi Satellite x 4 gear. Guessing that may not have started until '68.
 
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