Volt tester / Charging Questions

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RobbAdams

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I believe my battery is not being charged by the alternator, and would like to do some testing to figure out what the problem is.

I do have a multi/Voltage tester like this:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/2/Electrical/ElectricalTesters/PRD~0520055P/Mastercraft%2BDeluxe%2BDigital%2BVolt%2BMeter.jsp

However I have no Idea how to use it.

Anyone want to share the appropriate procedure for isolating where the problem is within my charging system using this tool.

I would rather try and do it properly now instead of replacing parts until it works (My usual Method).

Car runs fine, Battery goes dead every few days, Boosted it yesterday and went for a short drive, and then let it run for about half an hour. Battery was not charged at all. Put battery on trickle charger, and it charged back up over night, so I guess the battery is ok. I suspect the voltage regulator, or perhaps a wiring issue. (My mechanic recently "Cleaned up" some of the wiring)
 
Im not getting 14 volts at the battery. (the number keeps getting lower, as I am slowly wearing it down.)

I am getting plenty of volts from the main stud on the back of the alt.

I have tried 2 different alternators and 2 different voltage regulators.

I tried runnig a new wire from the output on the alt over to the battery incase the other one had a short, no luck

I tried running a new wire from the field on the alt to the field on the regulator, no luck.

Battery cables, and ground straps are all good.

My next step is to check the IGN wire going into the regulator. Where does the other end of that wire go to? I am guessing one of the posts on the starter relay/selenoid thingy, but I would rather be sure!
 
If you have it at the alternator its a wireing ishue.how many volts on the alt stud.thats the output.it travels from their through the fire plug to the amp meter back out fuseable link to starter relay.
 
Autoparts stores can check charging systems. Trying different parts from a pile of bones doesn't help. You could try X number of bad parts and get the same results.
You may not get 14 volts at the battery. Its a 12 volt system. A good regulator wont overcharge a 12 volt battery. Anything above 12 is good. If all is correct the battery voltage should stay above 12 V regardless of rpm, accesories turned on etc... I prefer to never see over 13.2 V under normal conditions. Anything more will cause a wet top battery and a rotten battery tray. Good luck
 
I am getting 35-40 volts at the Alt Stud, I am seeing lows 12's at the battery when running.The number gets lower aned lower everytime I start the car.

I was under the impression that anything under 12.6 volts at the battery at Idle is actually discharging. Both the Alternator, and the Voltage regulator I used are brand new (I have a cool parts Guy that will let me return them if need be).

I tested all my other vehicles and they all show around 14 volts while running, and roughly 12.6 when the car is off at the battery posts.

I really want to be able to be confident when going out for a cruise that It will start again.

I have long ago bypassed the ammeter.

I plan to hook up a voltmeter once I get things working right.
 
First verify you have a good battery. Charge fully and take it in for load test. If ok, You may have a constant draw/short. Pull fuse to aftermarket stereo if applicable. close doors and pull neg batt. cable. If you see any arc at all you may have a short somewhere. If not, Probably regulator or wireing. make sure all grounds are clean and tight. good luck
 
you positively have an open in the circiut between the alternator and your battery. possibly the fire wall plug or your bypass jumper. a simple way to verify this is run a 10 or higher gauge wire from the alternator stud to the battery side post on the starter relay.This is a good permanent upgrade anyway for it takes the chargeing load off all the week points.The only issue is you should have a fuseable link for a permanent instalation.Do not change any more parts.the battery voltage and alternator voltage must be about the same before you worry about bad parts.
 
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