Coming along slowly with all of life's other commitments, lol. Engine and transmission now in car and about to install headers. Removed torsion bars to ease header install and ordered PST 1.03" torsion bars to replace my originals.Any updates on your car?
JW
Coming along slowly with all of life's other commitments, lol. Engine and transmission now in car and about to install headers. Removed torsion bars to ease header install and ordered PST 1.03" torsion bars to replace my originals.
You have a clean installation.... The topside of the motor looks very docile.....
Thanks, I was hoping to run stock valve covers but they required spacers to clear rockers and I did not want to invite oil leaks. I am trying very hard to make it look as innocent as possible.You have a clean installation.... The topside of the motor looks very docile.....
JW
Mine was a new unused scattershield of the older design. What I mean is mine had the open starter hole on it and the bolt on bracket for the torque arm pivot mount. This design was known to have flexing issues causing binding of the clutch linkage. I called Holley who now owns Quick Time and was put through to Ross the former owner of QT who still manages the QT and Lakewood areas for Holley. He informed a QT customer is a customer for life and he would take care of the retrofit up to current design standard. I shipped to his shop, they redid my piece and re-powder coated and shipped back all on their dime. FANTASTIC customer service. The povot mount area and starter pocket are all boxed in and won't flex now. I did have to use offset dowels though to correct centerline.let me know if you have any issues with Quick time bellhousing .. any mods needed ? and issues ?
Glad you found this helpful, again I wish to express how pleased I am with the service from Holley and Ross from quick time. First class customer service. I live in Canada and they handled shipping also.Cpearce... THANK YOU ! that was VERY USEFUL information .. I was wondering why you seen some with open starter hole and some closed in ... THis is what I am talking about!
Looks awesome!! Great power numbers also. I actually used a single grove big block chevy pulley lol. My ATI balancer is a hybrid with a mopar crank snout on rear side and a chevrolet bolt pattern on front face. We had to custom machine a spacer to go between the balancer and pulley for proper belt alignment. Nice to see another Canadian. What are the details of your build?Another Canadian......I am wondering what you used for your crank pulley with the ATI dampner. We have similar projects but mine is a '70. My 340/416 made 560hp/530tq.
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Hi Jesse,Is there more to this dyno sheet Chris? I only see up to 5400 rpm is why I ask. Surely this engine peaked around 6100-6200 rpm. J.Rob
Hi Jesse,
Lol, no we did not pull past 5500 (on another pull). Reason for this is I was more than happy with the numbers we had already achieved and did not want to push limits of stock block. My car is 90 percent street and occasional track so extracting every last bit of power was not of top importance. (Actually exceeded my expectations as it was) The dyno session was mostly for safe break in and tuning of Engine. We tried to simulate real street car testing using pump premium, safe timing, safe jetting, and water temp of 175. In this rpm range the hp gains per 100 rpm were greatly reduced. I suspect with agressive tuning and more rpm this engine would likely reach 575hp but for my application we didnt see the need to push it that far. My hope is that this engine will provide me with years of trouble free street service. Out of curiosity what rpm have your safely pulled an LA engine with hydraulic roller cam, I realize 5500 is well below the limits.
Next engine with r3 block will be a different story.
Lol, all I can fit are 245 60 15, or 235 70 15's. I have three complete center section ready, 3.55, 3.23, and 2.94. I think even the 2.94 gears should have little difficulty breaking traction. The red line radials will further enhance the innocent look.that motor is going to eat tires. What are you going to run for tires? I've got 275 Nittos, and it'll still roast them with little effort.
Lol, all I can fit are 245 60 15, or 235 70 15's. I have three complete center section ready, 3.55, 3.23, and 2.94. I think even the 2.94 gears should have little difficulty breaking traction. The red line radials will further enhance the innocent look.
I'm terribly sorry about my response time on this, it actually slipped my mind until I re-read entire thread today. The pan only hangs below k frame 1-1.5" max. I will get photos tonight for you. Much more clearance than I expected, I thought it would hang down like a big block pan.Can you take a picture of the Oil Pan when you get everything tightened up? I am curious as to how low it sits. I did not realize you had already gotten the clutch I spoke about. Maybe you will figure how to get that bad boy away from the starting line and not break up a bunch of stuff like I did lol...... The is very clean looking piece...
JW
I'm terribly sorry about my response time on this, it actually slipped my mind until I re-read entire thread today. The pan only hangs below k frame 1-1.5" max. I will get photos tonight for you. Much more clearance than I expected, I thought it would hang down like a big block pan.